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Routes in Umbrella Wall

High Lonesome S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Type: Sport, 400 ft, 5 pitches
FA: Paul Emrick & Bruce Eriksen
Page Views: 436 total, 20/month
Shared By: perrotr Perrot on Jan 23, 2016 with updates
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

"High Lonesome", Falls Walls, Umbrella Wall, 5 pitches, 11b/c, sport.

Pitches 1 and 2. Both are low end 5.10 and go up the right-leaning corner/face on the left side of the Umbrella Wall. Do an awkward start to the first pitch (usually wet). There is a harder bolted pitch/option for the 2nd pitch (5.11/12?) on the right side, or just continue face climbing up the right-leaning corner (just to the right of a big dirty crack). Both pitches are roughly 80-100 feet long.

Pitch 3. Traverse to the right across the upper left black streak (often wet), then pull the small roof just left of the top of center black streak. Then climb up to the massive roof with a exposed traverse all the way to far right hand corner of the roof. Find a cramped hanging belay (sort of), 5.10+. This is a long pitch...130-150 feet?

Pitch 4. Start by traversing out right from the belay, then go around the arete/corner and up. There is big exposure on the first few moves out from the belay. After coming around the arete/roof onto the face, climb straight up on big holds (jugs/pockets) staying just to the right of the crack. This is probably the easiest pitch of the climb, but it is the most exposed, 5.9, 80-100 feet.

Pitch 5. Head out up and right from the belay to an overlap where the wall steepens considerably (see upper right portion of photo where the black streaks just to the right of the crack on p4 fizzle out, and the wall turns back to clean orange/yellow rock). There are two notable cruxes - one early on, the other mid-route. The climbing mellows considerably after getting through the business. This is an unbelievable pitch and has super cool climbing/moves 300+ feet above the deck, 5.11b/c, 80-100 feet.

Watch out for some loose rock/pebbles. Helmets are recommended. This is a great route if you want to get up high off the ground and see the beautiful valley below you instead of just cragging away single pitches nearby. I'm not 100% sure what all the pitches were rated in the old guidebook, but everything felt on the mellow 5.10 side except for the traverse pitch (3) and the final pitch (5).

Location

High Lonesome starts on the far left hand side of the Umbrella Wall very close to the corner. We traversed over from the Main Wall area.

BRING TWO 70 METER ROPES FOR THE RAPPEL. I don't think two 60 meter ropes will reach the ground from the p3 anchors. It can be a little tricky getting down. We rapped from p5 anchors to P4, then from p4 down and around the corner/roof to the p3 anchors, and then all the way down.

Protection

All pitches are bolted and have two bolt anchors. You can trad climb the crack system to the left of pitches 1 and 2 if you want to climb a super dirty/nasty crack.

Photos

Nick Niebuhr
Santa Fe, NM
  5.11b/c
Nick Niebuhr   Santa Fe, NM
  5.11b/c
Fantastic route! If it wasn't for some loose rock and wet spots, this would easily be 4 stars. The traverse pitch and last rappel are wild! Jul 11, 2017