Type: Sport, 350 ft, 5 pitches
FA: Paul Emrick & Bruce Eriksen
Page Views: 718 total · 20/month
Shared By: Ross Perrot on Jan 23, 2016 with updates from Paul Emrick
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

High Lonesome, Umbrella Wall, Falls Walls, Telluride, 5 pitches, 11b/c, sport.

Pitches 1 and 2. Start on the far left (east) side of the Umbrella Wall. Both pitches are 5.10 and go up the right-leaning corner/face. Awkward start to the first pitch, wet/mossy ledge with loose rock to an open book corner.  Don't be deterred with the shitty start, the rest of the route is really good. There is a harder bolted pitch/option for the 1st/2nd pitches ("Jokers Wild", 5.12+) on the right overhanging side, or just continue face climbing up the right-leaning corner (just to the right of a big dirty crack). Both pitches are roughly 80 -100 feet long. You could link P1/P2, but you'd need 20+ draws.

Pitch 3. The money pitch. Traverse to the right across the upper left black streak, then pull the small roof just left of the top of center black streak. Climb up to the main umbrella wall roof with an exposed traverse all the way to far right hand corner of the roof. Set a hanging belay (sort of) in the corner), 5.10-, 120 - 140 feet.

Pitch 4. Traverse out right from the belay, then go around the arete/corner and up. After coming around the arete/roof onto the face, climb straight up on big holds (jugs/pockets) staying just to the right of the crack. You get big exposure on the first few moves out from the belay. This is the easiest pitch of the climb, 5.9, 70 - 80 feet.  

Pitch 5. There is an old bolt thread (no hanger), and one bolt directly above the belay (unfinished project?). Don't climb this. Climb the line to the right of the belay to an overlap where the wall steepens considerably. Power through the first few bolts, and then the climbing mellows considerably. It is bouldery at the crux, 5.11b/c, 80 - 100 feet.

There are loose rock/pebbles, and helmets are recommended. This is a great route if you want to get up high off the ground and see the beautiful valley below. It is one of the best routes in the Telluride region...get on it!

Location

High Lonesome starts on the far left hand side of the Umbrella Wall, close to the left corner. Traverse past the Main Wall area in order to get to the Umbrella Wall.  There is a low traverse option in order to get to the Umbrella Wall as well (hike up the 2nd drainage gully).  

BRING TWO 70 METER ROPES FOR THE RAPPEL. Two 60 meter ropes won't reach the ground from the P3 anchors. It can be a little tricky getting down from the top. Rap from P5 anchors to P4, then from P4 down and around the corner/roof to the P3 anchors, and then all the way down.

Protection

All pitches are bolted and have two bolt anchors. 15+ draws with two anchor setups should do it. You can trad climb the crack system to the left of pitches 1 and 2 if you want to climb a super dirty/nasty crack.

Whoever raps first from the top of P5, make sure to clip draws in as you rappel to keep you on the wall. Pitch 5 is overhanging.

Photos

Nick Niebuhr
Santa Fe, NM
  5.11b/c
Nick Niebuhr   Santa Fe, NM
  5.11b/c
Fantastic route! If it wasn't for some loose rock and wet spots, this would easily be 4 stars. The traverse pitch and last rappel are wild! Jul 11, 2017
Spencer Coon
Barcelona, ES
  5.11b/c
Spencer Coon   Barcelona, ES
  5.11b/c
Unbelievable route! 3rd pitch horizontal traverse was clear stand out for me and one of my all time favorite leads. Fun moves with 200+ ft of air under your feet. All the other pitches are very good and engaging - no duds. Really wild line and aerial last rap with great views. Only the very beginning was wet for us (ledge to get to first bolt, you can place a jacket on it to avoid getting shoes wet). Def 4 star classic for me. Get on it! Jul 6, 2018