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Elevation: 9,676 ft 2,949 m
GPS: 37.85632, -107.86417
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 40,245 total · 354/month
Shared By: Telluride Mountain Club on Jun 9, 2017
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

Description Suggest change

The Dark Side gets afternoon shade.

Getting There Suggest change

Park in the big pullout south of Ophir turn. Walk east and then southeast uphill looking for the big water pipe.

Approach following the pipe. You will then head up to the walls depending on your desired crag. Generally follow trails some bushwhacking to the base of each crag. Once you reach the base of the walls, you can also traverse to access the crags.

Per Chris Dickson: a note on access: most of the parking lot and part of the approach trail are on private property. As a courtesy to the landowner, please park facing straight in (perpendicular to the forest) and on the far right side of the parking lot. Also, consider keeping a low profile while in the parking lot. 

There is no overnight parking or camping in the lot, but there are plenty of pulloffs just south along CO Highway 145 and up towards Lizard Head Pass for free camping.

Look for the approach trail in the corner of the lot, and follow this uphill to the big water pipe. Follow the pipe to the left.

Approach the crags by walking the pipe eastward. For the Wild Westerlies trail, look for the first trail you see on the right (look for an arrow pattern welded into a plate on the pipe). For the Bermuda Triangle, keep walking the pipe to the next trail on the right, marked by a cairn. You'll then head up steep trails to the walls. Once you reach the base of the walls, you can also traverse to access the crags.

62 Total Climbs

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Location: The Dark Side Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at The Dark Side

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 16
● Capicola
Sport
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 15
● Holiday Cruise Line
Trad
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 14
● Exodus
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 20
● Desperado
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 16
● Camino al Cielo
Sport
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
 14
● Jiro Dreams of Shooshing
Sport
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 16
● The Love Boat
Sport
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 24
● Tango Negro
Sport
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 10
● Heavy Nettle
Sport
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 6
● Unnamed
Sport
5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 6
● Gabagool
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 4
● Butter Brain
Sport
5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 10
● Weaving through Golden Choss
Sport
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 26
● Reggae on Broadway
Sport
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
 8
● The Endurance
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
● Capicola Wild Westerlies
 16
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
● Holiday Cruise Line Bermuda Triangle
 15
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
● Exodus Wild Westerlies
 14
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
● Desperado Wild Westerlies
 20
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
● Camino al Cielo Wild Westerlies
 16
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
● Jiro Dreams of Shooshing Wild Westerlies
 14
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Sport
● The Love Boat Bermuda Triangle
 16
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
● Tango Negro Wild Westerlies
 24
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
● Heavy Nettle Wild Westerlies
 10
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
● Unnamed Wild Westerlies
 6
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
● Gabagool Wild Westerlies
 6
5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
● Butter Brain Wild Westerlies
 4
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
● Weaving through Golden Choss Wild Westerlies
 10
5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
● Reggae on Broadway Wild Westerlies
 26
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
● The Endurance Bermuda Triangle
 8
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b Sport
More Classic Climbs in The Dark Side »

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