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Areas in Ophir Wall

East Buttress 11 / 9 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 19
East Jungle Gym 0 / 5 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 5
Main Wall 17 / 8 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 21
Mirror Wall 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1
Ophir Wall southwest 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1
Party Wall 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2
Slabs, The 4 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 4
Upper Tier, The 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1

Description [Edit]

Ophir Wall is located at about 9,000 feet in the "town" of Ophir outside of Telluride. Many single pitch and several 600 foot climbs are on the Ophir Wall. Despite its reputation, Ophir has a lot of very high quality rock. Ophir is old school; the grades are solid, the routes can be runout, and the climbing is technical. John Long and Lynn Hill put up many high quality routes here, including the coveted Ophir Broke.

Getting There [Edit]

Heading north on US 550, turn west (left) on Ophir Pass Road, about 10 miles outside of Silverton. Ophir Pass is too rough, but a high clearance vehicle is nice. If you don't want to go over Ophir Pass, then you can take 184 West to Cortez and then CO 145 East to Telluride. Ophir is about 15 miles south of Telluride on CO 145.

54 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Ophir Wall

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 7
The Slot
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 9
Blue Moon
Trad, Sport
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 3
Horse Play
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 32
Hot Wee Wee
Trad 5 pitches
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 3
Comes a Time
Trad
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 13
Feeling Edgy
Trad, Sport
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
 4
Dr. Gizmo
Trad 2 pitches
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
 8
Cheeseburger in Paradise
Trad
5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 10
Y-Crack
Trad
5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
 3
Total Recall
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 8
White Salamander
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 6
Goldrush
Sport
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
 5
Savelli Express
Trad 8 pitches
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
 4
Beyond The Abyss
Sport 2 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
The Slot E Buttress
 7
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
Blue Moon Main Wall
 9
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, Sport
Horse Play Main Wall
 3
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Hot Wee Wee Main Wall
 32
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad 5 pitches
Comes a Time Main Wall
 3
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Feeling Edgy Main Wall
 13
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad, Sport
Dr. Gizmo Main Wall
 4
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Trad 2 pitches
Cheeseburger in Paradise Main Wall
 8
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13 Trad
Y-Crack Main Wall
 10
5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Trad
Total Recall Main Wall
 3
5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a Sport
White Salamander Main Wall
 8
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
Goldrush E Buttress
 6
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
Savelli Express Main Wall
 5
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c Trad 8 pitches
Beyond The Abyss E Buttress
 4
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c Sport 2 pitches
More Classic Climbs in Ophir Wall »

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Photos

Bill Kees is the man. Jun 16, 2005
"Ophir ", in terms of climbing, generally refers to 3 main areas. The Ophir Wall, which is the prominent face you'll see from the road, The Dark Side which is made up of many smaller cliffs directly opposite The Ophir Wall, and Cracked Canyon, a moderately steep canyon a few hundred yards east of The Ophir Wall. The approaches to these three areas are very different and I would recommend asking a local or consulting one of the guidebooks (as of this fall the third should be out) for advice.

Often described as loose, chossy, etc. the area does offer a good variety of climbs up to about 5 pitches with some good, dense cragging in Cracked Canyon. I would guess that at least half of the 200+ climbs in the area are well worth doing. Besides many good climbs the place has a great history with routes put up by Robbins, Barber, Long, L. Hill, C. Fowler, A. Savelli, M. Wilford just to name a few. And of course Bill Kees, who was correctly identified as "the man" by previous AC. Of course with a crew like this putting up the routes the warning sign should be flashing "stiff ratings, at times runout".

Beautiful setting. Have fun. Sep 10, 2005
Eric Foster
Chandler/Flagstaff, AZ
Eric Foster   Chandler/Flagstaff, AZ
Is there a good guidebook for this place? Can you get it in Telluride? May 26, 2007
Adam Peters
Salt Lake City, Utah
Adam Peters   Salt Lake City, Utah
Guidebook is "Telluride Rock", you can find it at Jagged Edge in Telluride. Jun 20, 2009
Went to the Ophir wall for the first time, pretty specifically to do Ophir Broke among others. I was very psyched to see and try this test-piece. My favorite part? Hiking up to see an old ratty fixed line on the route. No wait, I think repeatedly batting it out of the way while pumped silly leading the upper part was even better.

Look, mini-traxioning is all the craze with the friendless, but if you have a training route you want to leave a cord on, don't pick the area's most noteworthy and proud test-piece. Only an ego maniac would think its okay to impinge on another's experience like that. At least leave it set up as a top-rope so anybody could pull it to get it out of the way.

Otherwise, Ophir Wall and Cracked Canyon both are awesome. Did not find the grades super stiff (is there a backwater area that doesn't claim this?) Better be good with your gear to safely lead some of the harder trad pitches, though. Sep 1, 2009

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