Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: Henry Barber
Page Views: 4,361 total · 26/month
Shared By: Guy H. on Sep 27, 2005
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

This classic route starts on a ledge (Tennis Shoe Traverse) about 150 feet off the deck, about 200 feet to the right of the large, left-facing dihedral. Consult the guidebook for an approach pitch.

This 5-star crack to hard to miss from the road. This is a must do route if you are in the area for a few days. It starts out in a flared jagged wide crack with hand jams inside (5.10a). This leads to a good rest at the intersection of the upper two cracks. The left part of the Y-crack is easier and thinner, but more awkward. The right crack is a splitter fist crack. Get your #3 [Camalots] ready, and follow this beautiful crack for 25 feet to a good rest. Cupped hand jams can be found deep in the crack, dive in and enjoy.

There is 2 bolt belay at 100 feet. You can lower or rap with a 60m.

Protection

A few medium hexes, 1 set of cams to #3.5 [Camalot], doubles from #0.75-2, and about 4 #3 [Camalots].

Photos