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Routes in Cerro Torre Tower

80 Proof Roof T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Fitzroy Was Here T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Kompressor Route, The T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a X
SW Face T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, 110 ft
FA: Mark Uphus & Bill Cramer, January 1989
Page Views: 522 total, 4/month
Shared By: Graham Roff on Feb 27, 2006
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

The main line up the Cerro Torre tower, this route starts up a finger crack and finishes on some spicy slab/face climbing.
The route starts to the left of the obvious chimney on the tower. Climb up the short finger crack to a ledge. Traverse right on very lose rock to the first bolt, then proceed up and right past three more bolts to the top.
The crux is between the first and second bolt - do not pull too hard on those flakes!

Note that the picture in Vogel's 1992 guide shows the climb going up the wrong side of the tower.

Location

Rappel from the webbing anchor at the top of the chimney down and to the climber's right of the summit. A 60m gets you down for sure, 50m may also work.

Protection

A few pieces of thin gear for the bottom finger crack plus some wider pieces for the anchor. To protect the initial (sketchy) traverse a 3-4" cam can be used on a very long (6') runner.
Watch out for the follower when placing protection on the finger crack, a piece at the top prevents a dangerous swing if they fall pulling the last few moves.

Photos

fubar
Babylon
  5.10b
fubar   Babylon
  5.10b
This route has horribly loose rock. Giant loose flakes and crumbling feet throughout, with perhaps 20 feet of nice climbing in between. Though it's neat to get to the summit (covered in raptor guano), there isn't a single climb worth doing on this formation. Feb 16, 2010
Mike Hack  
 
The traverse section is not as loose and crumbly as first appears. The feet are actually quite solid, and the holds are good. Fun route, nice variety. Mar 10, 2006