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Routes in Cerro Torre Tower

80 Proof Roof T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Fitzroy Was Here T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Kompressor Route, The T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a X
SW Face T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: Bill Cramer, Mark Uphus & Michelle Pinney, January 1989
Page Views: 533 total, 4/month
Shared By: Graham Roff on Feb 27, 2006
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

This route climbs the face to the right of the chimney on Cerro Torre Tower.
Climb up the start of the chimney then traverse right to the first bolt. Continue up the face, staying to the right side past one more bolt to the roof. Pull a strenuous move from the corner to surmount the roof. Finish a few more tricky slab moves then on to easier terrain to the top.

This is a good route with thought provoking moves on somewhat lose rock. Not for the beginning 5.10 or JT climber.

Location

Rap down to the climber's right to avoid getting the rope caught in the chimney. A 60m rope is best (not sure if a 50 would get you all the way down).

Protection

Two bolts "protect" the bottom. Gear (0.5-1" cam) can be placed under the roof. Two more bolts follow on the upper slab section.
The rap anchor at the top currently consists of four or five old pieces of webbing and one rap ring. A gear anchor can be made for belaying a second with 1-3" cams.

Photos

x15x15
 
x15x15  
 
this is a really good route imho. passing the bolts on the way to the overhang has some tenuous moments, MOST of which are not too run out. Indeed it felt insecure, but not hard. you will definitely be thinking on this route...

do drano, fitzoy and this one for a quality afternoon away from the crowds. Jan 7, 2011
Mike Hack  
 
I never felt totally secure on this one. There are some heady moves pretty far above the bolts. The moves leading to the roof are definitely not as easy as they appear from below . . . Mar 10, 2006
eMurdock
Tucson, Arizona
eMurdock   Tucson, Arizona
This climb could deserve a PG or R. Very high-value, memorable climb. Mar 1, 2006