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Routes in Y Crack Buttress

Green Rosetta T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Y Crack, The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 130 ft
FA: Jim Wilson et al., 1975
Page Views: 3,264 total, 23/month
Shared By: Roger Linfield on Feb 24, 2006
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


29 Opinions

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Description

This is an excellent one-pitch hand crack, with sustained difficulty and great protection on good rock. I climbed it via the left start (recommended by others). The crux section (just above the junction of the two starts) has mostly good jams – a slight overhang to the wall and an awkward right lean to the crack make it difficult.

Protection

Double up on hand sized pieces and some small stoppers.

Photos

Dustin Stephens
  5.10
Dustin Stephens  
  5.10
Awesome pitch. The diagonaling-left crack low start to the low start adds quite a bit of pump and difficulty to this route. Sep 11, 2016
Tradiban  
 
Solid 3 stars. Triples in C4 green and red are nice but not mandatory. Tat anchor sucks, bring a knife and some replacement, bolts are good though. FYI, route finishes climbers right of the anchor, so top out, set a trad anchor or look left for the bolts and a hanging belay.

That nice crack to the right is 11c apparently. Can't recall the name... Nov 14, 2013
generationfourth
Irvine, CA
 
generationfourth   Irvine, CA
 
Really good jamming. Doesn't over hang that much, at least I didn't notice it, and the lean isn't too awkward.

Make sure you bring extra cord and rap rings just in case as the top doesn't have rap anchors– just two bolts with a sliding x crusty cord and rap ring. Back it up. Aug 25, 2012
Tricamus
Culver City, CA
Tricamus   Culver City, CA
Just did this route on Jared's recommendation, great climb! I did the right-hand start; but I found a lower crack to be a great approach. Just below the right-hand start there is a right-leaning flared hand crack that adds quite a bit of flavor to the climb. Here's a link to a picture showing the crack: sierraphotography.com/tahqu… May 23, 2012
JaredVagy
Santa Monica, Ca
JaredVagy   Santa Monica, Ca
Climbed on 7/21/2011. Awesome climb. Took the right crack. I found no need for small stoppers as mentioned (maybe I wasn't looking hard enough). Climbed with a double rack. Would recommend three #1 C4's if you are leading at your grade. Substantially eases after the crux. Rappelled with a 70 to the base. Jul 22, 2011
fubar
Babylon
 
fubar   Babylon
 
I think the right start is significantly harder (and longer) than the left. Jun 10, 2010
Carl A
brooklyn, ny
 
Carl A   brooklyn, ny
 
Climbed Y crack this weekend and though it was burly. It was baking in the afternoon June sun and I was greasing all over this thing. The Left start has great steep straight in jamming and the upper part is tough! It overhangs maybe 10 feet, super steep! Jun 6, 2010
mschlocker
San Diego, CA
  5.10b
mschlocker   San Diego, CA
  5.10b
Maybe I should post the full resolution image. "The guy" in the photo is a very attractive woman on a very attractive rock. I usually downsize photos of people I don't know though.

We took the left line too. Once I saw these two on the right line it made me want to go back to try it that way. Mar 28, 2008
snowey
 
snowey  
 
I thought this climb was really fun. Jumped on it after getting annoyed waiting for Whodunit. Reminded me a little of Illusion Dweller.
As opposed to the guy in the picture, I took the left start. Jul 23, 2007