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Elevation: 6,422 ft
GPS: 35.13784, -112.02436
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 374,831 total · 1,700/month
Shared By: Josh Janes on Jan 19, 2006 · Updates
Admins: Greg Opland, Brian Boyd, JJ Schlick, Kemper Brightman, Luke Bertelsen

Description Suggest change

Paradise Forks (AKA Sycamore Falls) is a beautiful columnar basalt climbing area located about a half-hour west of Flagstaff. The area is in Sycamore Canyon at a point where the canyon is actually a Y-shaped confluence of drainages. There are two seasonal waterfalls and pools at the ends of the Y, and the point where the Y merges is the popular "Prow" area. The Prow, The Gold Wall, and the Davidson Wall offer the longest routes which are up to about 90'.

The stretchy, crimpy crux of Rumbleseat 5.12.

One distinguishing characteristic of the area is that almost all routes are approached from above by fixing a line and rapping in. Also, there are exactly zero sport climbs at The Forks and just a handful of bolts (I can only think of 7: two sets of anchors in the choss at the White Wall, and the three on Australians At The Forks). The area really lends itself to trad climbing up beautiful, varied crack systems. Rock is bullet-hard, pro is typically bombproof, and friction varies from polished to grippy. Expect stout ratings.

If trees are used for an all day rap line, please pad the tree, and then place a piece of gear near the edge of the cliff to take the full load of the rappel, leaving just enough slack in the line so the tree is never directly loaded. This way you don't have to have a full bombproof trad anchor, just a piece or two and the tree simply offers you an ultimate back up, without being affected.

Nestled in a pine forest, the area is quiet, peaceful, and fairly pristine; please try to keep it that way.
 Many thanks to Larry Coats for providing first ascent information!

The Gold pond as seen from near the Prow. This was after a winter of unusually high rain, 2004 I think.

Getting There Suggest change

Paradise Forks is just southeast of the town of Williams, AZ, just off Interstate 40.  There are two approaches--both on good dirt roads.

From Flagstaff, drive west on 40 for 27 miles to exit 167 for Garland Prairie Road. Follow this south over some railroad tracks for 8 miles. Turn right onto FS Road 109. Follow this for 3.3 miles to a left-hand turn into the parking lot.

From Flagstaff, drive west on 40 for 17 miles to exit 178 for Parks road. Head south over some railroad tracks (road turns into Garland Prairie), and follow this as it makes several 90 degree turns to skirt around a huge parcel of private land. After 13.3 miles, turn left onto FS Road 109. Follow this for 3.3 miles to a left-hand turn into the parking lot.

Panorama from the top of The Prow

153 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Paradise Forks

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 94
The Black Rose
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 220
Mayflower
Trad
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 53
Aqualung
Trad
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 73
Raindance
Trad
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 129
East of Eden
Trad
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
 118
Torpedo
Trad
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 184
The Prow
Trad
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
 47
Gold Finger
Trad
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 58
Three Turkeys
Trad
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
 122
Davidson Dihedral
Trad
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 53
Mutiny on the Bounty
Trad
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
 57
Paradise Lost
Trad
5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
 33
Shotgun
Trad
5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b PG13
 22
Ice Cream Dreams, AKA Acid Test…
Trad
5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c R
 7
The Equalizer
Trad
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
The Black Rose Obsidian Wall
 94
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Mayflower Prow
 220
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Aqualung Jungle Wall
 53
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Raindance Raindance Buttress
 73
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
East of Eden Gold Wall
 129
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Torpedo Davidson Wall
 118
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Trad
The Prow Prow
 184
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad
Gold Finger Gold Wall
 47
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Trad
Three Turkeys Davidson Wall
 58
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Trad
Davidson Dihedral Pillow Wall
 122
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a Trad
Mutiny on the Bounty Prow
 53
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Trad
Paradise Lost Davidson Wall
 57
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13 Trad
Shotgun Prow
 33
5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b Trad
Ice Cream Dreams, AKA Acid… Gold Wall
 22
5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b PG13 Trad
The Equalizer Davidson Wall
 7
5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c R Trad
More Classic Climbs in Paradise Forks »

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