Elevation: 7,000 ft
GPS: 35.138, -112.028 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 204,709 total · 1,246/month
Shared By: Josh Janes on Jan 19, 2006 with improvements by JT Moree
Admins: Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick, Greg Opland
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Description

Paradise Forks (AKA The Forks) is a beautiful columnar basalt climbing area located about a half-hour west of Flagstaff. The area is in Sycamore Canyon at a point where the canyon is actually a Y-shaped confluence of drainages. There are two seasonal waterfalls and pools at the ends of the Y, and the point where the Y merges is the popular "Prow" area. The Prow, The Gold Wall, and the Davidson Wall offer the longest routes which are up to about 90'.


The stretchy, crimpy crux of Rumbleseat 5.12.

One distinguishing characteristic of the area is that almost all routes are approached from above by fixing a line and rapping in. Also, there are exactly zero sport climbs at The Forks and just a handful of bolts (I can only think of 7: two sets of anchors in the choss at the White Wall, and the three on Australians At The Forks). The area really lends itself to trad climbing up beautiful, varied crack systems. Rock is bullet-hard, pro is typically bombproof, and friction varies from polished to grippy. Expect stout ratings.


If trees are used for an all day rap line, please pad the tree, and then place a piece of gear near the edge of the cliff to take the full load of the rappel, leaving just enough slack in the line so the tree is never directly loaded. This way you don't have to have a full bombproof trad anchor, just a piece or two and the tree simply offers you an ultimate back up, without being affected.

Nestled in a pine forest, the area is quiet, peaceful, and fairly pristine; please try to keep it that way.
 Many thanks to Larry Coats for providing first ascent information!

The Gold pond as seen from near the Prow. This was after a winter of unusually high rain, 2004 I think.

Getting There

Paradise Forks is just southeast of the town of Williams, AZ, just off Interstate 40.  There are two approaches--both on good dirt roads.

From Flagstaff, drive west on 40 for 27 miles to exit 167 for Garland Prairie Road. Follow this south over some railroad tracks for 8 miles. Turn right onto FS Road 109. Follow this for 3.3 miles to a left-hand turn into the parking lot.

From Flagstaff, drive west on 40 for 17 miles to exit 178 for Parks road. Head south over some railroad tracks (road turns into Garland Prairie), and follow this as it makes several 90 degree turns to skirt around a huge parcel of private land. After 13.3 miles, turn left onto FS Road 109. Follow this for 3.3 miles to a left-hand turn into the parking lot.

Panorama from the top of The Prow

150 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Paradise Forks

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 73
The Black Rose
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 167
Mayflower
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 81
Pillow Case
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 96
Pillow Talk
Trad
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 104
Fool's Game
Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 80
Ship Of Fools
Trad
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 99
Pillow Fight
Trad
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 58
Raindance
Trad
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 98
East of Eden
Trad
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
 85
Jolly Roger
Trad
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
 93
Torpedo
Trad
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
 67
Loose Lips
Trad
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 137
The Prow
Trad
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
 79
Davidson Dihedral
Trad
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
 45
Paradise Lost
Trad
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
The Black Rose Obsidian Wall
 73
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Mayflower Prow
 167
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Pillow Case Pillow Wall
 81
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Pillow Talk Pillow Wall
 96
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Fool's Game Prow
 104
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad
Ship Of Fools Prow
 80
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Pillow Fight Pillow Wall
 99
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Raindance Raindance Buttress
 58
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
East of Eden Gold Wall
 98
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Jolly Roger Prow
 85
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 Trad
Torpedo Davidson Wall
 93
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Trad
Loose Lips Davidson Wall
 67
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Trad
The Prow Prow
 137
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad
Davidson Dihedral Pillow Wall
 79
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a Trad
Paradise Lost Davidson Wall
 45
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13 Trad
More Classic Climbs in Paradise Forks »

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