Elevation: 6,422 ft
GPS: 35.138, -112.024 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 261,755 total · 1,465/month
Shared By: Josh Janes on Jan 19, 2006 with 1 Suggestions
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

Description

Paradise Forks (AKA Sycamore Falls) is a beautiful columnar basalt climbing area located about a half-hour west of Flagstaff. The area is in Sycamore Canyon at a point where the canyon is actually a Y-shaped confluence of drainages. There are two seasonal waterfalls and pools at the ends of the Y, and the point where the Y merges is the popular "Prow" area. The Prow, The Gold Wall, and the Davidson Wall offer the longest routes which are up to about 90'.

The stretchy, crimpy crux of Rumbleseat 5.12.

One distinguishing characteristic of the area is that almost all routes are approached from above by fixing a line and rapping in. Also, there are exactly zero sport climbs at The Forks and just a handful of bolts (I can only think of 7: two sets of anchors in the choss at the White Wall, and the three on Australians At The Forks). The area really lends itself to trad climbing up beautiful, varied crack systems. Rock is bullet-hard, pro is typically bombproof, and friction varies from polished to grippy. Expect stout ratings.

If trees are used for an all day rap line, please pad the tree, and then place a piece of gear near the edge of the cliff to take the full load of the rappel, leaving just enough slack in the line so the tree is never directly loaded. This way you don't have to have a full bombproof trad anchor, just a piece or two and the tree simply offers you an ultimate back up, without being affected.

Nestled in a pine forest, the area is quiet, peaceful, and fairly pristine; please try to keep it that way.
 Many thanks to Larry Coats for providing first ascent information!

The Gold pond as seen from near the Prow. This was after a winter of unusually high rain, 2004 I think.

Getting There

Paradise Forks is just southeast of the town of Williams, AZ, just off Interstate 40.  There are two approaches--both on good dirt roads.

From Flagstaff, drive west on 40 for 27 miles to exit 167 for Garland Prairie Road. Follow this south over some railroad tracks for 8 miles. Turn right onto FS Road 109. Follow this for 3.3 miles to a left-hand turn into the parking lot.

From Flagstaff, drive west on 40 for 17 miles to exit 178 for Parks road. Head south over some railroad tracks (road turns into Garland Prairie), and follow this as it makes several 90 degree turns to skirt around a huge parcel of private land. After 13.3 miles, turn left onto FS Road 109. Follow this for 3.3 miles to a left-hand turn into the parking lot.

Panorama from the top of The Prow

152 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Paradise Forks

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 77
The Black Rose
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 184
Mayflower
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 91
Pillow Case
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 109
Pillow Talk
Trad
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 112
Fool's Game
Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 83
Ship Of Fools
Trad
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 109
Pillow Fight
Trad
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 63
Raindance
Trad
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 109
East of Eden
Trad
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
 90
Jolly Roger
Trad
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
 103
Torpedo
Trad
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
 75
Loose Lips
Trad
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 151
The Prow
Trad
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
 95
Davidson Dihedral
Trad
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
 51
Paradise Lost
Trad
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
The Black Rose Obsidian Wall
 77
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Mayflower Prow
 184
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Pillow Case Pillow Wall
 91
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Pillow Talk Pillow Wall
 109
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Fool's Game Prow
 112
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad
Ship Of Fools Prow
 83
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Pillow Fight Pillow Wall
 109
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Raindance Raindance Buttress
 63
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
East of Eden Gold Wall
 109
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Jolly Roger Prow
 90
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 Trad
Torpedo Davidson Wall
 103
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Trad
Loose Lips Davidson Wall
 75
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Trad
The Prow Prow
 151
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad
Davidson Dihedral Pillow Wall
 95
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a Trad
Paradise Lost Davidson Wall
 51
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13 Trad
More Classic Climbs in Paradise Forks »

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