Paradise Forks Rock Climbing
|GPS:||35.138, -112.024 Google Map · Climbing Area Map|
|Page Views:||322,556 total · 1,693/month|
|Shared By:||Josh Janes on Jan 19, 2006 · Updates|
|Admins:||Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick, Brian Boyd|
The stretchy, crimpy crux of Rumbleseat 5.12.
One distinguishing characteristic of the area is that almost all routes are approached from above by fixing a line and rapping in. Also, there are exactly zero sport climbs at The Forks and just a handful of bolts (I can only think of 7: two sets of anchors in the choss at the White Wall, and the three on Australians At The Forks). The area really lends itself to trad climbing up beautiful, varied crack systems. Rock is bullet-hard, pro is typically bombproof, and friction varies from polished to grippy. Expect stout ratings.
If trees are used for an all day rap line, please pad the tree, and then place a piece of gear near the edge of the cliff to take the full load of the rappel, leaving just enough slack in the line so the tree is never directly loaded. This way you don't have to have a full bombproof trad anchor, just a piece or two and the tree simply offers you an ultimate back up, without being affected.
Nestled in a pine forest, the area is quiet, peaceful, and fairly pristine; please try to keep it that way.
Many thanks to Larry Coats for providing first ascent information!
The Gold pond as seen from near the Prow. This was after a winter of unusually high rain, 2004 I think.
From Flagstaff, drive west on 40 for 27 miles to exit 167 for Garland Prairie Road. Follow this south over some railroad tracks for 8 miles. Turn right onto FS Road 109. Follow this for 3.3 miles to a left-hand turn into the parking lot.
From Flagstaff, drive west on 40 for 17 miles to exit 178 for Parks road. Head south over some railroad tracks (road turns into Garland Prairie), and follow this as it makes several 90 degree turns to skirt around a huge parcel of private land. After 13.3 miles, turn left onto FS Road 109. Follow this for 3.3 miles to a left-hand turn into the parking lot.
Panorama from the top of The Prow
Classic Climbing Routes at Paradise Forks
Days w Precip