Paradise Forks Rock Climbing

Paradise Forks (AKA Sycamore Falls) is a beautiful columnar basalt climbing area located about a half-hour west of Flagstaff. The area is in Sycamore Canyon at a point where the canyon is actually a Y-shaped confluence of drainages. There are two seasonal waterfalls and pools at the ends of the Y, and the point where the Y merges is the popular "Prow" area. The Prow, The Gold Wall, and the Davidson Wall offer the longest routes which are up to about 90'.

One distinguishing characteristic of the area is that almost all routes are approached from above by fixing a line and rapping in. Also, there are exactly zero sport climbs at The Forks and just a handful of bolts (I can only think of 7: two sets of anchors in the choss at the White Wall, and the three on Australians At The Forks). The area really lends itself to trad climbing up beautiful, varied crack systems. Rock is bullet-hard, pro is typically bombproof, and friction varies from polished to grippy. Expect stout ratings.

If trees are used for an all day rap line, please pad the tree, and then place a piece of gear near the edge of the cliff to take the full load of the rappel, leaving just enough slack in the line so the tree is never directly loaded. This way you don't have to have a full bombproof trad anchor, just a piece or two and the tree simply offers you an ultimate back up, without being affected.

Nestled in a pine forest, the area is quiet, peaceful, and fairly pristine; please try to keep it that way.
 Many thanks to Larry Coats for providing first ascent information!

Seasonal access alert

"Eagles, falcons, hawks, and migratory birds build nests in shallow depressions on ledges, cliffs and rock walls, often returning to the same site year after year. The Forest Service and Northern AZ Climbers Coalition request that climbers avoid certain routes during critical nesting periods (typically March through early August).

In 2024, Wild Wall is closed due to Mexican Spotted Owls until August 31st, unless lifted sooner. The USFS will be frequently monitoring the Mexican Spotted Owls so that they can open areas as soon as possible. Successful partnership with the Forest Service biologists has allowed for closure of select routes and walls, instead of the entire area, and we ask that climbers adhere to these closures. If you have questions, concerns, or would like to report a bird sighting, please reach out to the Northern Arizona Climbers Coalition at board@nazcc.org or the US Forest Service @ 928-635-5635 and ask to speak with a biologist."