Mountain Project Logo

Routes in The Prow

Black Panther Party T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Cheeseball T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Crow's Nest T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Fool's Game T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Jolly Roger T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Lacuna T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Mayflower T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Mayflower Direct T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13
Mutiny on the Bounty T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
On The Edge T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Pilgrims Progress T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Prow, The T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Red Sky at Night T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b PG13
Rumbleseat T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Sail Away T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Ship Of Fools T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Shittin Bricks T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Shotgun T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
UKD (Unusual Killing Device) T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Yardarm T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Trad, 90 ft
FA: Larry Coats and Gordon MacNeil
Page Views: 9,862 total, 68/month
Shared By: Orphaned on Jan 31, 2006
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


152 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

Mayflower is located on the right side of the Prow area, in the second to the last big right-facing corner (left of Fool's Game). I think this is the best 5.9 route at The Forks! First climb a short pillar with a finger crack in it (shared with Fool's Game) to gain a big shelf. Move left, place some gear, and make a big stretch across to an arete on the left. Climb the blocky holds on the arete (don't fall!) to gain the big right-facing corner above. Beautiful hand-sized jamming above takes you to the rim.

Protection

A selection of small (0 TCU) to #3 Camalot sized cams will get you up this in style.
Dan Evans
Phoenix, AZ
  5.9
Dan Evans   Phoenix, AZ
  5.9
Absolutely amazing route, one of the best pitches of 5.9 I have climbed to date.

Gear Used:

- Singles of .3 - 1
- (3) 2"
- (3) 3" Apr 23, 2017
Miguel D
SLC
 
Miguel D   SLC
 
TR'd it. No fixed gear. The step across isn't too bad, definitely a bit exposed but there's good holds. You can protect under the flake with a .3 C4 (i think, maybe a .5) there's a nice notch for it if you look underneath it. The crack was mostly pretty good handjams for me (med sized hands) until the upper section where it gets just a bit wider, but not quite fist size

Great route overall. Will definitely lead next time, Just need several hand sized pieces May 31, 2015
Micah Kurtz
Denver, Co
 
Micah Kurtz   Denver, Co
 
Amazing route. How many blues and yellows are needed for the top portion? May 24, 2014
KyleK2
Phx/Flg AZ
 
KyleK2   Phx/Flg AZ
 
Fixed cam is gone (for real this time) as of 4/14/13. Apr 19, 2013
Dan Carter
Las Cruces, NM
 
Dan Carter   Las Cruces, NM
 
First trip to the forks and had a great time! The fixed piece is still there. A guy I climbed with showed me an exciting start variation to this. Instead of going up the pillar, step off left into the dihedral and head up. Pretty cool and more direct. Great route! Jul 12, 2010
Just got back from an amazing Forks trip--climbed Mayflower today, and even though I have small/thin hands it was a great cupped-hand size, really solid. I love that exposed step across to the pillar! And yes, not to contradict Christian on the posting above, but as of 8/19/09 there is a fixed cam in the crack. Aug 19, 2009
Christian
Casa do Cacete
  5.9
Christian   Casa do Cacete
  5.9
There is no fixed cam anymore Jun 19, 2009
Bennett
Southern California
Bennett   Southern California
fixed cam at step across is still there as of april 21 09. would be wise to back up, probably decking if it blew. Apr 22, 2009
juggy
Lakewood Colorado
juggy   Lakewood Colorado
Great warm-up for surrounding harder climbs!! Hidden fixed piece overhangish area while traversing will save you a piece of your own. Top crack is heaven and didn't feel like stuffing too many pieces Nov 19, 2007
Great climb for those that only recently started crack climbing (and probably a good warm-up for experienced crackers). This climb provides safe thrills! Jun 25, 2007
mattso
  5.9
mattso  
  5.9
The top hand crack was like putting yourself on belay with each and every jam. This is the perfect warm up climb for the harder routes on the prow. Jan 29, 2007
Brian Boyd
Kowloon, Hong Kong
  5.9
Brian Boyd   Kowloon, Hong Kong  
  5.9
The upper handcrack is friendly, but long. Think I placed four #2 camalots and a #3 in the upper corner. There was a fixed cam that nicely protected the step across as of September '06. Sep 25, 2006