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Routes in The Prow

Black Panther Party T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Cheeseball T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Crow's Nest T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Fool's Game T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Jolly Roger T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Lacuna T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Mayflower T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Mayflower Direct T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13
Mutiny on the Bounty T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
On The Edge T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Pilgrims Progress T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Prow, The T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Red Sky at Night T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b PG13
Rumbleseat T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Sail Away T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Ship Of Fools T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Shittin Bricks T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Shotgun T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
UKD (Unusual Killing Device) T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Yardarm T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: Steve Grossman, Paul Davidson, Jim Haisley
Page Views: 4,247 total, 29/month
Shared By: Josh Janes on Jan 31, 2006
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


76 Opinions

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Description

Ship of Fools is located in the middle of the right side (east-facing) side of The Prow. A boulder problem up steep rock deposits you into a shallow left-facing corner above. Follow this up to the rim via easier climbing.

Protection

SR.

Photos

Dan Evans
Phoenix, AZ
Dan Evans   Phoenix, AZ
I was about to lead this and backed off due to the start. The boulder problem off of the ground goes around 10c in my opinion, and is extremely committing. The risk wasn't worth it for me, but props to those who onsight this section. Some key holds must've broken off as there are no "jugs" anywhere except for the first move off of the ground which doesn't really get you anywhere. My belayer pointed out a decent side pull up and left from the first chalked up jug, which I used to throw a high left heel hook and rock up. Seemed like the best way to do this without turning it into a V5 boulder problem on bunk holds. Rest of the climb is 5.9 with a few short 10a moves. Mid route there is quite a bit of seemingly insecure blocks that would've sketched me out with gear placements on lead. Overall good route. Will probably go back and lead it at some point, though was happy to work the start on TR first. Jun 10, 2017
Greg DeMatteo
W. Lebanon, NH
Greg DeMatteo   W. Lebanon, NH
Bret is correct about the 2 lobe #3 camalot placement. The beginning of this route is a funky boulder problem now (moreso than before) and you'll want a good spot. Apr 13, 2010
talkinrocks
Boulder, CO
  5.10-
talkinrocks   Boulder, CO
  5.10-
Starting this climb and geting off the ground definatly felt like the crux of this fun climb. Lieback with both hands on big hold with small polished feet to jug for the right hand and into the finger crack higher up on the left. Definatly kinda scary and unprotected about 6 feet off the deck. The rest of the climb was a cruiser and fun. I'd call it 5.10. May 29, 2009
Bret  
Was just there this last weekend and a good chunk of the #3 camalot (or 3 Friend) placement Larry Coats references had fallen off! So now, there's a 2 lobe #3 placement protecting the crux sidepull move(which has also gotten smaller but not much, if any, harder according to friends that did the route). May 13, 2009
juggy
Lakewood Colorado
juggy   Lakewood Colorado
Wasn't impressed, felt like 5.8ish Nov 19, 2007
A safety trick for the start that was revealed to me quite late, after scaring myself getting off the ground many times- a #3 Friend (or probably a blue Camalot) fits in a VERY inobvious slot under the left side of the overhang (rotate the cam 180 degrees to check that you have the right placement). It truly is solid, and provides excellent pro for the start. Oct 28, 2007
Kole DeCou
Flagstaff, AZ
  5.10
Kole DeCou   Flagstaff, AZ
  5.10
The start of this route seems to keep getting harder. I'd now consider the boulder problem to be at least 5.10. Feb 23, 2007