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Routes in The Prow

Americans at Arapiles S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Black Panther Party T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Cheeseball T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Crow's Nest T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Fool's Game T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Jolly Roger T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Lacuna T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13
Mayflower T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Mayflower Direct T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13
Mutiny on the Bounty T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
On The Edge T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Pilgrims Progress T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Prow, The T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Red Sky at Night T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b PG13
Rumbleseat T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Sail Away T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Ship Of Fools T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Shittin Bricks T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Shotgun T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
UKD (Unusual Killing Device) T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Yardarm T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
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Type: Trad
FA: Tim Coats, Paul Davidson, Jim Haisley, early '80's
Page Views: 3,733 total · 27/month
Shared By: seldomwolf on Aug 20, 2007
Admins: Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick, Greg Opland

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The climb starts with a some face climbing, finger and hand jams to a ledge(5.11-). Traverse right on the ledge to the obvious crack. Climb the crack(tips to hands) to the rim.


1st crack system right of the prow, shares same start as mutiny on the bounty


black alien, doubles tips to thin hands(.3-1 camalot),1 hand size(#2 camalot)


Sorry, thought I'd updated the FA info: FA Tim Coats, Paul Davidson, and Jim Haisley, early '80's, with some effort. The start then was easier then, since a column on the lower section has fallen over since the FA. Jan 10, 2008
Michael Sokoloff
Spokane, WA
Michael Sokoloff   Spokane, WA
Although this climb has a 15-foot stretch of awesome and intense climbing, it is by no means a 4-star route. Detracting from it are the average start which is shared with other routes as well as the ledge in the middle which breaks the route's continuity. In my opinion, to gain max stars there has to be both awesome moves as well as a sustained nature like The Prow, Davidson Dihedral, Paradise Lost. I give Sail Away 3-stars. Mar 23, 2008
Paul Davidson
Paul Davidson  
The "average start" was originally not shared with the other routes. They came later on. Not sure what's average about the start. I recall (which doesn't mean much these days) it being steep and no give away.

While I agree Paradise Lost is overall a cleaner climb, it doesn't come close to Sail Away for pure crack moves. PL is a basically a lieback. You can't really cheat your way up SA.

Well... you can (A) yard on gear, (B) TR it first.

As for stars, grades, etc.... to each his own but I'm more up with Salathe's, "Why can't we just climb?" I've done no star routes I thought were awesome and 4 star routes that I thought were heaps. I've done routes that one day were 4 stars for me and another time were no stars. It's just all too subjective. Better to just rack and roll. May 20, 2008
Michael Sokoloff
Spokane, WA
Michael Sokoloff   Spokane, WA
I find a great deal of value and enjoyment in star ratings for climbs. Like a fine wine, the quality of a climb is purely subjective although most climbs considered "classics" have widespread reverence. Like wine, climbs can change over time with holds disappearing (or hopefully not being added). My bottle of '94 Chateau Latour is nothing like the vintage before or after it and the Joker is not the same route since the opening "jug" broke off (I think it's better). My palate for wine has changed over the years, as have my preferences for climbs. You're probably sitting there thinking either 1) what's with this wine snob posing as a climber, or 2) I'd like to come over to this guy's house for dinner.

The bottom line is that I think grading quality of climbs is very important, although the most important ratings are your own. I find it a worthwhile and rewarding endeavor comparing my thoughts to others such as yours, others on the site and authors of guidebooks. The details of whether Paradise Lost is a better climb than Sail Away or vise versa are irrelevant. I didn't know Salathe, but I imagine he spent many of his finest hours engaged in passionate discussions about "the classics". Jul 11, 2008
Mike   Phoenix
Sketchy start, hard middle, and fun top. Jul 25, 2008
chuck claude
Flagstaff, Az
chuck claude   Flagstaff, Az
I'm with Mike on this. The climbing is very good, but the 10-15ft of business is out of character with the rest of the route. As for 5.12b, I don't know. While the crux is fairy stiff with really poor feet, its just so short, and you can do a few moves and then its over. Jun 26, 2009

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