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Routes in The Prow

Americans at Arapiles S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Black Panther Party T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Cheeseball T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Crow's Nest T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Fool's Game T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Jolly Roger T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Lacuna T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13
Mayflower T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Mayflower Direct T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13
Mutiny on the Bounty T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
On The Edge T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Pilgrims Progress T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Prow, The T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Red Sky at Night T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b PG13
Rumbleseat T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Sail Away T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Ship Of Fools T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Shittin Bricks T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Shotgun T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
UKD (Unusual Killing Device) T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Yardarm T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
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Type: Trad
FA: Paul Davidson and Steve Grossman
Page Views: 12,220 total · 79/month
Shared By: Dean Hoffman on Feb 7, 2006
Admins: Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick, Greg Opland

You & This Route

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The Prow is one of the classic routes at the Forks and Northern Arizona. Protected by almost all .75 or green camalots this route starts at the base of a good ole fashion OW. From there the well protected small hand crack heads up and up, finally turning into a decent hand crack and then topping out at the top of the cliff.


Hope you've got a couple green Camalots, 3 or 4 should suffice. Also rack a small unit just in case for the top of the pillar and a #1 and #2 for the top section of the route. Either be brave and build an anchor at the top to the route or run your line back away from the edge to anchor off. Please don't use the large prominent pine tree atop the Prow wall due to erosion concerns. Have fun.
As for the gear beta, here is what I would recommend. I would recommend a yellow Alien or TCUfor the start of the pillar, a 0.5 Camalot, 3 .75 Camalots, and 3 #1 Camalots. I believe I placed more #1 Camalots on the routes than 0.75s. great route.

bobby Apr 28, 2006
Mike   Phoenix
The crux isn't too long, protects well, and can be done a couple of different ways. If the off-width start doesn't bother you, then this is an excellent first Forks 5.11. Jul 25, 2008
This was my first 5.11- crack send. Pretty doable Aug 20, 2008
I should have read this thread before getting on it. Not having three green cams (.75) made me blew my onsight. Downclimbing to recover the right gear below and climbing back up will certainly get you pumped. I bet the first ascent was done with hexes and nuts, so what am I whining about... May 18, 2009
Ryan Kelly
Ryan Kelly   work.
I think reading this page would have blown your onsight too. Aug 15, 2009
Chris M
Hailey, ID
Chris M   Hailey, ID
My rack for this is BD: .4, .5, 3x .75, 2x 1, 2
I disagree about using the top of the pillar as the start- part of the endurance of the route is the OW start. Although the crux is in the ringlocks (or thin hands), the route feels easier when started from the pillar which takes away from the overall character. Oct 19, 2009
Catherine Conner
Phoenix, AZ
Catherine Conner   Phoenix, AZ
Finally gave this a whirl on lead. It wasn't the shit show I predicted, though I did hang. It's tough, and sickly enough I liked the off-width. Hard to get the toes in the crack up above the ledge. Can't wait to try it again and see how it goes. Oct 6, 2010

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