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Routes in The Prow

Americans at Arapiles S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Black Panther Party T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Cheeseball T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Crow's Nest T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Fool's Game T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Jolly Roger T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Lacuna T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13
Mayflower T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Mayflower Direct T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13
Mutiny on the Bounty T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
On The Edge T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Pilgrims Progress T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Prow, The T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Red Sky at Night T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b PG13
Rumbleseat T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Sail Away T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Ship Of Fools T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Shittin Bricks T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Shotgun T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
UKD (Unusual Killing Device) T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Yardarm T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
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Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Larry and Tim Coats
Page Views: 1,479 total · 10/month
Shared By: Kole DeCou on Feb 23, 2007
Admins: Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick, Greg Opland

You & This Route

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Inbetween Fools Game and On The Edge lies this neglected but nice route. I think UKD stands for Ultimate Killing Device because it was led before the TCU. It now protects well with small aliens at the crux. Scramble in from either side to the stance at the start of the steep tips crack. Crux comes quickly with a very strange and off-balance mantle thing. After that just follow the jams.


Between On The Edge and Fools Game.


2 each to #3 Camalot, maybe 3 each black and blue Aliens to sew up the crux.


This is a way cool route.
Unlike most things at the Forks, it's more like a Tucson climb than a Forks jamfest.

I'd forgotten all about this route...
Didn't this protect on wires just fine ?

FWIW: Might be Unique Killing Device Apr 7, 2008
Idunno but I was glad to have two black aliens on the crux of it today! May 11, 2008
Phoenix & Prescott, AZ
arjunmh   Phoenix & Prescott, AZ
Yes, this is a fine route and I wish several hundred more people would climb it to clean it out and scare the bats into a different crack. Would get 3 stars if a bit cleaner. It's kinda cool to climb and get the sense of what the other more popular routes must've been like back in the day. BD small X4s are also perfect for the crux, which is indeed a cool sequence of moves. All very protectable and doable for the grade. Glad to have finally gotten on it. Jul 13, 2016

More About UKD (Unusual Killing Device)