Type: Trad, 55 ft
FA: J.Snyder
Page Views: 1,060 total · 16/month
Shared By: J. Snyder on Aug 27, 2013
Admins: Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick, Greg Opland

You & This Route


8 Opinions

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Description

Lacuna climbs a colorful face with a sawtooth seam just to climbers right of Rumbleseat. The climbing fits in nicely with its classic neighbors to the left.

A slightly intimidating unprotected start leads you into engaging mixed crack and face climbing on interesting rock. Climb up into the head wall placing small cams and set up for the crux bouldery sections ahead. Make several delicate moves through a mail slot and to a wobble block. Keep calm and carry on through easier face climbing while placing specific gear to the top.

Although only slightly more difficult than Rumbleseat but less sustained than Shotgun, the crux sections are better protected with small cams. Just might be the perfect mental warm-up for Rumbleseat. PG rating because of the unprotected start moves and delicate finish above particular gear.

Location

Lacuna starts on a small broken ledge next to a big boulder 20' right of Rumbleseat. Rap down to ledge or scramble to from Shotgun rappel.

Protection

Gear used in order on FA:
.4 C4 12" runner
.3 C4
Red #1 C3
Green #0 C3
Purple #00 C3 x2
Grey #000 C3 x2
.75 C4
#6 BD nut

Photos

Casey Niggemyer
Flagstaff, Arizona
  5.12-
Casey Niggemyer   Flagstaff, Arizona
  5.12-
I was able to get in a good high piece (.4 BD i think) to protect the starting moves. Sliders were nice to have to protect the upper section after the crux. Really fun line! thanks for finding this one Jeff Aug 27, 2014
I agree with Casey that this is a worthy line with ok protection at the start. I took Jeff's rack beta but found the top a little sparse. Maybe I got caught slacking a bit, but this one gave me more than I was expecting. Nevertheless, a fun route worth doing after the classics. Jul 4, 2018