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Routes in The Prow

Americans at Arapiles S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Black Panther Party T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Cheeseball T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Crow's Nest T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Fool's Game T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Jolly Roger T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Lacuna T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Mayflower T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Mayflower Direct T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13
Mutiny on the Bounty T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
On The Edge T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Pilgrims Progress T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Prow, The T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Red Sky at Night T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b PG13
Rumbleseat T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Sail Away T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Ship Of Fools T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Shittin Bricks T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Shotgun T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
UKD (Unusual Killing Device) T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Yardarm T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
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Type: Trad, 55 ft
FA: J.Snyder
Page Views: 1,042 total · 17/month
Shared By: J. Snyder on Aug 27, 2013
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

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Lacuna climbs a colorful face with a sawtooth seam just to climbers right of Rumbleseat. The climbing fits in nicely with its classic neighbors to the left.

A slightly intimidating unprotected start leads you into engaging mixed crack and face climbing on interesting rock. Climb up into the head wall placing small cams and set up for the crux bouldery sections ahead. Make several delicate moves through a mail slot and to a wobble block. Keep calm and carry on through easier face climbing while placing specific gear to the top.

Although only slightly more difficult than Rumbleseat but less sustained than Shotgun, the crux sections are better protected with small cams. Just might be the perfect mental warm-up for Rumbleseat. PG rating because of the unprotected start moves and delicate finish above particular gear.


Lacuna starts on a small broken ledge next to a big boulder 20' right of Rumbleseat. Rap down to ledge or scramble to from Shotgun rappel.


Gear used in order on FA:
.4 C4 12" runner
.3 C4
Red #1 C3
Green #0 C3
Purple #00 C3 x2
Grey #000 C3 x2
.75 C4
#6 BD nut


Casey Niggemyer
Flagstaff, Arizona
Casey Niggemyer   Flagstaff, Arizona
I was able to get in a good high piece (.4 BD i think) to protect the starting moves. Sliders were nice to have to protect the upper section after the crux. Really fun line! thanks for finding this one Jeff Aug 27, 2014
I agree with Casey that this is a worthy line with ok protection at the start. I took Jeff's rack beta but found the top a little sparse. Maybe I got caught slacking a bit, but this one gave me more than I was expecting. Nevertheless, a fun route worth doing after the classics. Jul 4, 2018

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