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Routes in The Prow

Black Panther Party T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Cheeseball T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Crow's Nest T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Fool's Game T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Jolly Roger T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Lacuna T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Mayflower T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Mayflower Direct T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13
Mutiny on the Bounty T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
On The Edge T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Pilgrims Progress T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Prow, The T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Red Sky at Night T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b PG13
Rumbleseat T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Sail Away T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Ship Of Fools T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Shittin Bricks T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Shotgun T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
UKD (Unusual Killing Device) T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Yardarm T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: Jim Haisley, Paul Davidson, Tim Coats
Page Views: 5,275 total, 40/month
Shared By: Kole DeCou on Feb 23, 2007
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


42 Opinions

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Description

One of the classic forks tips cracks. Start just right of the Prow OW, at a thin crack in broken rock. Climb this finger crack (5.10+) to a ledge. Move to the left side of the ledge, then up the clean steep tips crack in a tight stemming or layback corner. Eats up green Aliens/.3 Camalots. Some people move left into a slightly wider (yellow Alien?) splitter crack. 5.11+ either way.

Location

Just right of the OW at the base of the prow at a thin crack in chunky rock.

Protection

2 each to #1 Camalot, 1 #2 Camalot, with 4 or 5 green Alien size. I place 4, but 5 might be nice for an onsight attempt.

Photos

Robbie Brown
Flagstaff, AZ
  5.11d
Robbie Brown   Flagstaff, AZ
  5.11d
Just note that the rack description above does not include the first 30ft of the climb. Bring an extra 2 purple c3s, a .3, and a .5 for the whole climb. You want all the small shit you can get. The left finger crack (11c/d) is slightly easier than the corner (11d/12a) Apr 3, 2013
J. Snyder
Flagstaff, Arizona
J. Snyder   Flagstaff, Arizona
Heads up to anyone getting on Mutiny there is a rather large colony of bats residing in the upper section of the headwall crack. There is also a good amount of feces and urine accompanying them...Hopefully soon they will stop hang doggin' the route! Jul 2, 2012
straight up is the way! right crack is the real bounty! yeah dustin! Apr 17, 2010
Dustin Wildermuth
Flagstaff, AZ
Dustin Wildermuth   Flagstaff, AZ
I think it depends on if you lay the thing back or stem weather you use the left crack. If laying back good luck getting out of it before the "bucket stem", and once your there you don't need the left crack. This thing is sick!! Aug 14, 2009
Greg DeMatteo
W. Lebanon, NH
  5.11+
Greg DeMatteo   W. Lebanon, NH
  5.11+
Am I the only one who bails left into the locker finger crack and just stays there? Jul 17, 2009
Mike
Phoenix
  5.12-
Mike   Phoenix
  5.12-
Yes Paul, right crack, then left crack, then back to the right crack, all in the corner. Scroll up and read the route description. My friends with small fingers generally stay in the (smaller) right crack.

I agree that once you get the nice stem it gets much easier. Jul 14, 2009
Paul Davidson
  5.11+
Paul Davidson  
  5.11+
Left crack then right crack ?
All I remember is a pretty clean continous corner.
Definetely smalls tips help for the first 20-30 feet.
Get starting gear, go up get one or two placements higher, come down, shake out and start running for it. Stop once (maybe twice) and get something in and the go for the bucket stem ! Once you hit the stem, it's in the bag. Not that it's a give away above that but if you can get there, you can finish. (assuming you're not totaly blown.) Jun 24, 2009
Mike
Phoenix
  5.12-
Mike   Phoenix
  5.12-
I think the start of this climb (from the ledge) is HARD! It seems made for those with smaller fingers. After this, the left crack seems slightly easier to me, good finger locks, then back to the right crack for an easier finish. Jun 22, 2009
Kole DeCou
Flagstaff, AZ
 
Kole DeCou   Flagstaff, AZ
 
Woops, looked a little closer, deleted my last comment.

The line labeled '20' in the Falcon Guide is indeed in the wrong place. From the ledge Mutiny traverses off left and goes up the tips corner. The seam that goes straight up where the book shows Mutiny is very hard, probably 5.12ish, harder than Sail Away I thought. Not sure if it's been led or not. Sail Away goes up from the right side of the ledge. May 22, 2008
chuck claude
Flagstaff, Az
 
chuck claude   Flagstaff, Az
 
As with everything people have different suggestions, My gear list is usually 1 green alien (I use a red BD C3), heavy in blue BD microcams (0.3) and grey BD microcams (0.4) and then 2 0.5 camalot jr, and 3 0.75 camalot jrs and no (0) 1.0camalots (red) May 10, 2007