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Mayflower

5.9, Trad, 90 ft (27 m),  Avg: 3.5 from 232 votes
FA: Larry Coats and Gordon MacNeil
Arizona > Northern Arizona > Sycamore Canyon > Paradise Forks > Prow

Description

Mayflower is located on the right side of the Prow area, in the second to the last big right-facing corner (left of Fool's Game). I think this is the best 5.9 route at The Forks! First climb a short pillar with a finger crack in it (shared with Fool's Game) to gain a big shelf. Move left, place some gear, and make a big stretch across to an arete on the left. Climb the blocky holds on the arete (don't fall!) to gain the big right-facing corner above. Beautiful hand-sized jamming above takes you to the rim.

Protection

A selection of small (0 TCU) to #3 Camalot sized cams will get you up this in style.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Heather Hayes plugging gear on Mayflower.
[Hide Photo] Heather Hayes plugging gear on Mayflower.
Looking down on the top of mayflower and fools game
[Hide Photo] Looking down on the top of mayflower and fools game
Mayflower
[Hide Photo] Mayflower
HMo on the belay
[Hide Photo] HMo on the belay
Elicia Hunt on the upper dihedral of Mayflower.
[Hide Photo] Elicia Hunt on the upper dihedral of Mayflower.
Mark K. cruising up Mayflower August 2010
[Hide Photo] Mark K. cruising up Mayflower August 2010
The step across before entering the crack.
[Hide Photo] The step across before entering the crack.
On the route
[Hide Photo] On the route
The crack is jam after jam once you get into it.
[Hide Photo] The crack is jam after jam once you get into it.
Unknown climber on Mayflower.
[Hide Photo] Unknown climber on Mayflower.
The step-across move.
[Hide Photo] The step-across move.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Brian Boyd
Flagstaff, AZ
  5.9
[Hide Comment] The upper handcrack is friendly, but long. Think I placed four #2 camalots and a #3 in the upper corner. There was a fixed cam that nicely protected the step across as of September '06. Sep 25, 2006
mattso
  5.9
[Hide Comment] The top hand crack was like putting yourself on belay with each and every jam. This is the perfect warm up climb for the harder routes on the prow. Jan 29, 2007
David Sampson
Tempe AZ,
 
[Hide Comment] Great climb for those that only recently started crack climbing (and probably a good warm-up for experienced crackers). This climb provides safe thrills! Jun 25, 2007
juggy
Lakewood Colorado
[Hide Comment] Great warm-up for surrounding harder climbs!! Hidden fixed piece overhangish area while traversing will save you a piece of your own. Top crack is heaven and didn't feel like stuffing too many pieces Nov 19, 2007
Bennett Barthelemy
Ojai, CA
[Hide Comment] fixed cam at step across is still there as of april 21 09. would be wise to back up, probably decking if it blew. Apr 22, 2009
Christian RodaoBack
Tucson, AZ
  5.9
[Hide Comment] There is no fixed cam anymore Jun 19, 2009
emilygindlesparger
[Hide Comment] Just got back from an amazing Forks trip--climbed Mayflower today, and even though I have small/thin hands it was a great cupped-hand size, really solid. I love that exposed step across to the pillar! And yes, not to contradict Christian on the posting above, but as of 8/19/09 there is a fixed cam in the crack. Aug 19, 2009
Dan Carter
Las Cruces, NM
 
[Hide Comment] First trip to the forks and had a great time! The fixed piece is still there. A guy I climbed with showed me an exciting start variation to this. Instead of going up the pillar, step off left into the dihedral and head up. Pretty cool and more direct. Great route! Jul 12, 2010
KyleK2
Phx/Flg AZ
 
[Hide Comment] Fixed cam is gone (for real this time) as of 4/14/13. Apr 19, 2013
Micah K
Denver, Co
 
[Hide Comment] Amazing route. How many blues and yellows are needed for the top portion? May 24, 2014
Miguel D
SLC
 
[Hide Comment] TR'd it. No fixed gear. The step across isn't too bad, definitely a bit exposed but there's good holds. You can protect under the flake with a .3 C4 (i think, maybe a .5) there's a nice notch for it if you look underneath it. The crack was mostly pretty good handjams for me (med sized hands) until the upper section where it gets just a bit wider, but not quite fist size

Great route overall. Will definitely lead next time, Just need several hand sized pieces May 31, 2015
Daniel Evans
Phoenix, AZ
  5.9
[Hide Comment] Amazing route. Gear Used: - Singles of .3 - 1 - (2) 2" - (3) 3". I placed a bomber #2 to protect the traverse with a long runner in the crack of the neighboring route to the right just before you step across. Apr 23, 2017