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Routes in Raindance Buttress

Rain Man T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Raindance T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
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Type: Trad, 110 ft
FA: Jason Sandidge, John Ficker, 1985
Page Views: 3,561 total · 23/month
Shared By: Josh Janes on Jan 31, 2006
Admins: Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick, Greg Opland

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56 Opinions

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Description

Raindance is a classic route... I was skeptical but it is really good. Well left of the Davidson Wall and just right of the black rock near the pond, partly obscured by trees. Climb up an obvious feature through the trees and over a roof, then continue up really good rock via discontinuous cracks. A great climb.

Protection

Double set to 0.75 Camalot.

Photos

John Wilder
Las Vegas, NV
  5.10
John Wilder   Las Vegas, NV
  5.10
fwiw- i did not believe that this route can be considered PG13- it ate pro like a fat man eating chocolate.....i put in plenty of gear through the cruxes and never felt like i was running it out.... May 28, 2006
climber73
Fort Collins, CO
  5.10a/b
climber73   Fort Collins, CO
  5.10a/b
I really really enjoyed leading this route. Fun climbing and great pro. This was some nice face climbing to mix up a day of mostly pure crack climbing. May 29, 2007
Steve Kahn  
 
Kind of unusual for the area. Awesome and great. Apr 24, 2008
I am pretty sure the FA of this was Jim Haisley with me belaying, 1982.
Just a bit after a summer monsoon.

Very fun pitch, much better than it looked from the ground. May 16, 2008
Mike
Phoenix
  5.10a/b
Mike   Phoenix
  5.10a/b
An excellent route with great position & exposure, and a suprising amount of face climbing. Jul 25, 2008
Sooo... Paul, maybe you have some thoughts on this, sounds like John Ficker (just heard of MP at this years Forks Fest) was pretty bummed that he was not credited on the FA of Raindance. Can anybody out there clear this up....? Credit where credit is due, right? Oct 2, 2013
I too just heard of MP, good stuff. I've been out of the climbing scene for quite awhile. John F. and I put this route up in 1985. The name "Raindance" came about due to the pouring rain John encountered on the second. Oct 14, 2013
As for the FA, hard to really say because it's a gear route.
I do know that Jim Haisley and I climbed it in 1981 or 82. I moved back to Tucson in '83 and it was either the last or next to last summer I was in Flag that Jim and I climbed it. There was a bit of loose on it that we cleaned but not a lot. I don't recall if there was anything loose enough that it clearly had not been climbed. Seems like the climb was pretty clean, only minor stuff but it was looser at the top where we did shift a few things around for safety. And at that time, it was a very small group of folks at the Forks, all Flag locals. As far as I know, at that time it hadn't been climbed. There was no chalk anywhere at the Forks yet to give you an idea of how small the group was.

We named it Raindance because it had been a summer moonsoon blast an hour or so before. We had hunkered down in the Canyon as the rain blasted and were walking out as the fading light was coming when I looked up and thought it looked good but maybe wet. Haisley thought it looked dry enough and I mentioned it looked more like his type of route (face climbing) and he jumped on it (I'm not thrilled by wet rock.) I believe the name came from me. I think we called it 5.9+? What does Toula's guide have? I don't recall PG13, I recall great pro but maybe took some work to place? I didn't lead it so don't listen to me on the rating or gear.

I'd also heard that Mike Lawson climbed it somewhere around the next weekend in similar conditions and thought they were doing the first. (who knows, maybe they were on it before us...) Hard to say.

I hate to take away from Ficker. He's maybe never really gotten the credit as a climber that he deserves, except among the in crowd. If you were climbing at a high level and doing FAs, you knew John & his high level of ability (ditto for Jason.)

Jason's story is great about the name. I mean, how often does that happen. I've had experience in the trad world of more than a few routes being done by different parties thinking they were doing an FA but can't think of another time when two parties came up with the same name. Part of the appeal of the name for me was the unique climbing with Arizona Creeper glistening in late afternoon light from the rain drops on the leaves. At the time, that area had a good growth of creeper and wild grapes that ran up the wall near the climb.

Frankly, Jim and I have our names on enough routes out there so adding Ficker and Jason to the FA is ok by me. Doing an FA at the Forks is something special. It is a fairly unique route for the Forks as I recall.

I'd like to hear from Jason about the FA of Shittin Bricks...
That was a solid lead for the time. Probably still is because the bottom pro is sketchy. I think when Larry Coats did the 2nd he worked out a long nut toss to protect those starting moves. Oct 23, 2013

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