Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: Paul Davidson, Bobbi Bensman, Tim and Larry Coats
Page Views: 5,974 total · 40/month
Shared By: chuck claude on Jul 24, 2006
Admins: Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick, Greg Opland

You & This Route


39 Opinions

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Description

A right angling flake (about 20ft up) between Loose Lips and Retards Recess. A left facing crack leads to a small roof leading to a right angling flake (classic and good fun) leading to the start of the crux with flared hand jams and holds on the right, leading to only flared jams on a slightly overhanging wall

Location

between loose lips and retards recess

Protection

can be done easily with cams only (green aliens to yellow camalots
chuck claude
Flagstaff, Az
  5.11c
chuck claude   Flagstaff, Az
  5.11c
One of my favorite leads in the Forks. The lieback flake is good fun and the upper baby butt crack is interesting.

gear beta: a red camalot placed at the base of the baby butt crack (after the lieback flake) will make you feel like you can wing anywhere on the rest of the route and you'd be safe. Apr 27, 2007
Greg DeMatteo
W. Lebanon, NH
Greg DeMatteo   W. Lebanon, NH
The beginning of that flared crack is sooooo harrrrd. Sep 21, 2008
Paul Davidson
  5.11d
Paul Davidson  
  5.11d
Some history:
Actual name was Tres Guajolotes Muerto because the first time I tried this there were three dead turkey chicks near the base. Nobody else liked that name hence, 3 Turkeys.

Couldn't commit to the crux moves the first day I tried it.
The next time I got on it, as I was moving into the crux, it started to rain. Lowered down and waited for it to dry, or so I thought.
Went back up, pulled through the crux and into the thin hands to find it was still oozing. Scared me silly but I didn't want to repeat the moves so I sucked it up.

This was pre TCU days so it was led on wires until it became #1 Friend size. Wet rock and strenuous gear placements had me thinking it was probably 12a. I believe my "red camalot" was a wired #2 hex backed up with some other wire. I didn't really feel like I could wing on it anywhere and be safe. But I just like to whine.

The second was Bobbi Bensman (before she was rich and famous) who I think followed it without a fall. I believe Tim and Larry both shared belay slave duty and both might have even given it a go at one point. So the FA was actually PD, BB, TC and LC. Nov 11, 2008
Robbie Brown
the road
  5.11+
Robbie Brown   the road
  5.11+
I placed 2 green c3 and a purple c3 on this route... Bring some small gear for an onsight attempt. May 13, 2013
Ryan Z
  5.11b/c
Ryan Z  
  5.11b/c
Good call on the TCU's ^ Got the onsight today! Short, pumpy, and beautiful. Aug 18, 2013