Type: Trad, 90 ft
FA: Craig Smith- June 1986
Page Views: 3,932 total · 26/month
Shared By: JJ Schlick on Oct 24, 2006
Admins: Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick, Greg Opland

You & This Route

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The Equalizer has been a test piece for generations, and was THEE hard route to do at the Forks for three decades. This line features bouldery climbing on pretty generous holds, with a dash of decent gear. It’s a strikingly clean line with wide open air.

Start by a large boulder with a bit of face climbing into a small left facing corner. From here stem, slap, deadpoint, and keep your head together. Very sustained and bouldery. Other known leads by John Mattson, Matt Childers, and Ty Mack placing gear on the run. Brilliant and demanding climbing!


A couple of systems right of Paradise Lost.


Wires, cams...


- No Photos -
I remember a picture of Jonny Woodward climbing this route. That was like a decade ago or more. Jul 18, 2008
First lead was reputed to be Craig Smith, a Brit, in June of 1986. May 15, 2010

I lead it in June '86. As far as I am aware this was the first lead. I placed all the gear on the lead and did it ground up. Russel Eriksson and Hassan Saab belayed me if you need any confirmation. I think I may even have some pics of the first ascent somewhere.

I think Jonny did it after me.

All the best,
Craig May 25, 2010
At the top does the the proper equalizer follow the right crack straight out the bulge or the left crack around the bulge? Anyone know which way Craig Smith and the later accentionist went? Left seems easier but right seems way cooler. Nov 15, 2018
Hi Wilson,
I honestly can't remember!
What I can remember is facing left maybe laybacking around a small roof...or did I imagine this. If you have a picture of the route you could send me it might jog my memory. I do remember soem photos of the FFA, but I'm buggered if I can find them. Dec 10, 2018