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Routes in Davidson Wall

Australians at the Forks T,S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Bach's Celebration T 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b PG13
Bladerunner T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Brown Derby T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Bushdoctor T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Bushman T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Equalizer, The T 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c R
Flake, The T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b R
Girls Route T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Jane Fonda Workout T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b PG13
Kingfolia T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Kingkinkus T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Loose Lips T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Paradise Lost T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Queenfolia T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Retard's Recess T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Three Turkeys T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Torpedo T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Trapeze T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Valentine's Day T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Watusi T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b PG13
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Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: Larry and Tim Coats
Page Views: 4,274 total · 28/month
Shared By: Kole DeCou on Mar 21, 2006 with updates from Hardhat n Hexes
Admins: Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick, Greg Opland

You & This Route


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Description

One of the Forks classics. Located on the left side of the Davidson wall, 20 ft left of Loose Lips. Scramble up some easy blocks to a step right into a stemming corner with twin finger cracks. Plug in a piece or 2, and stem and jam up the beautiful cracks for 50 feet. When the left crack goes wide, follow the right crack to the rim.

There's a variation finish that steps right of the pillar. A thin hands piece with extra-long runner protects the transition. After that, the gear I would want would be purple through orange metolius (.5 camelot). Airy liebacks with solid holds and gear. It ups the grade to 11-, and the quality to 4 stars.

Protection

Double set of cams from black Alien to #3 Camalot.

Photos

Greg DeMatteo
W. Lebanon, NH
  5.10+
Greg DeMatteo   W. Lebanon, NH
  5.10+
I recall forgetting the rack on this one and did it with nothing bigger than a red Alien. Well protectable as such if need be. May 28, 2007
Dean Hoffman  
 
This has got to be one of the best routes at the Forks. See a lot of people pulling into the left crack and straight in jamming, but man all those drop knees are way cool. May 17, 2008

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