Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: Larry and Tim Coats
Page Views: 4,326 total · 28/month
Shared By: Kole DeCou on Mar 21, 2006 with updates from tradderall *****
Admins: Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick, Greg Opland

You & This Route


90 Opinions

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Description

One of the Forks classics. Located on the left side of the Davidson wall, 20 ft left of Loose Lips. Scramble up some easy blocks to a step right into a stemming corner with twin finger cracks. Plug in a piece or 2, and stem and jam up the beautiful cracks for 50 feet. When the left crack goes wide, follow the right crack to the rim.

There's a variation finish that steps right of the pillar. A thin hands piece with extra-long runner protects the transition. After that, the gear I would want would be purple through orange metolius (.5 camelot). Airy liebacks with solid holds and gear. It ups the grade to 11-, and the quality to 4 stars.

Protection

Double set of cams from black Alien to #3 Camalot.

Photos

Greg DeMatteo
W. Lebanon, NH
  5.10+
Greg DeMatteo   W. Lebanon, NH
  5.10+
I recall forgetting the rack on this one and did it with nothing bigger than a red Alien. Well protectable as such if need be. May 28, 2007
Dean Hoffman  
 
This has got to be one of the best routes at the Forks. See a lot of people pulling into the left crack and straight in jamming, but man all those drop knees are way cool. May 17, 2008