Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 150 total · 14/month
Shared By: Ivan Cross on Aug 14, 2018
Admins: Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick, Greg Opland

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Description

Same start as Kingkinkus. When you get past the broken start and reach the slabby section approx 35' up, you'll see a sharp flake on your right with an obvious jug above it. Protect high in the slabby section (#0 metolius) and climb towards the jug. It's possible to go right and up, or up and right ;). Once you reach the jug there's a nice slot for a #3 metolius (a.red alien works nicely here). Continue up steep climbing, following the seam to finger crack, with helpful little jugs everywhere you need them.

This climb is stellar, some of the steepest rock at The Forks.

Location

A little ways right of the Queenfolia start. Same start a Kingkinkus.

Protection

I would suggest for a rack doubles from purple to orange metolius, singles to big hand size (I get a flared 3 camelot approx 20' up) , nuts, runners and even RP's. I feel like the start is light PG commitment rating. But I noticed Kingkinkus did not get PG, so I did not give it to this route.

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