Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Davidson Wall

Australians at the Forks T,S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Bach's Celebration T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b PG13
Bladerunner T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Brown Derby T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Bushdoctor T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Bushman T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Equalizer, The T 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c R
Flake, The T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b R
Jane Fonda Workout T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b PG13
Kingfolia T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Kingkinkus T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Loose Lips T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Paradise Lost T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Queenfolia T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Retard's Recess T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Three Turkeys T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Torpedo T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Trapeze T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Watusi T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b PG13
Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: Paul Davidson and Jim Haisley
Page Views: 303 total, 2/month
Shared By: Will Cobb on Jun 8, 2006
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


72 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

Located about 25 feet left of Brown Derby this route begins on face climbing up then right to the base of a nice corner hand crack. Climb this hand crack to the top of a pillar. From this point straight up is Kingfolia (5.10+). Climb up and right out a flake on great holds then exit on a thin hands crack.

Protection

1 x set TCUs
1 x .5, .75, #1 Camalots
2 x #2, #3 Camalots
Half set stoppers
Long slings can help reduce rope drag
Will Cobb
Flagstaff, AZ
 
Will Cobb   Flagstaff, AZ
 
Tavis,

There is a #3 Camalot placement about halfway out the flake. Kind of tucked up in there if I recall. I could never bring myself to run it out across that flake either. I did feel like a pumped chump after leading it! Nov 10, 2010
Do you mean a #3 TCU Will? That's what I jammed into that flake today. I've seen people lead this without placing gear in the crux, but I can never make myself run it out. Hitting that ledge would hurt. Apr 2, 2009
Paul Davidson
  5.10
Paul Davidson  
  5.10
One of my favorite climbs at the Forks.

It looked so intimidating on the first ascent but turned out to be a jug haul on steep ground.

Can be pumpy if you place the pro to keep yourself off the ledge.
As we used to say, "Never pass up the chance to pump a chump."

We were definitely of the chump school of thought.

BTW - my notes indicate the first was moi y Mike Lawson but my memory remembers being with Jim. Where's my aricept. May 16, 2008
Greg DeMatteo
W. Lebanon, NH
  5.10
Greg DeMatteo   W. Lebanon, NH
  5.10
The stress factor is only there cause of that pillar. Still, the climbing eases way up once you get vertical again. May 28, 2007
Will Cobb
Flagstaff, AZ
 
Will Cobb   Flagstaff, AZ
 
Good point Greg. A #3 Camalot fits perfectly into the flake about halfway across. Additionally, it is fairly steep climbing across the flake, so place good gear and climb quickly when possible. Jun 9, 2006