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Routes in Davidson Wall

Australians at the Forks T,S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Bach's Celebration T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b PG13
Bladerunner T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Brown Derby T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Bushdoctor T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Bushman T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Equalizer, The T 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c R
Flake, The T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b R
Jane Fonda Workout T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b PG13
Kingfolia T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Kingkinkus T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Loose Lips T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Paradise Lost T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Queenfolia T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Retard's Recess T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Three Turkeys T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Torpedo T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Trapeze T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Watusi T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b PG13
Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Jonny Woodward
Page Views: 1,684 total, 16/month
Shared By: Josh Janes on Jun 9, 2009
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

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Description

Bach's Celebration is an awesome route that throws it all at you. A heady start leads to some long stemming moves to a complete rest on a ledge; this is then followed by steep, athletic climbing up face holds and parallel seams. It's quite a bit safer than it's neighbor, The Flake, but somewhat harder.

Do the same dicey start (PG13) as for The Flake, but at the stance where you get the good, high #3 Camalot, instead of traversing out right, continue straight up via difficult stemming and small wires for pro. This ends at the top of the obvious pillar with the tree growing on it. Rest up here, because after this things are full on. Continuous, physical climbing up the overhanging wall with good gear leads to the rim. This last section is hard to suss on the fly, and requires traversing back and forth between the best holds of two, parallel crack systems. Neither one seemed to be climbable alone, but by moving between them, and using the occasional face hold, upwards progress, and gear, is possible.

Location

Begin just right of the "I am the master" graffiti (see the description for The Flake) in an exfoliating corner. The route trends slightly left and surmounts the obvious pillar with tree, then up from there.

Protection

00 TCU to #3 Camalot. No brass, but a bunch of stoppers in the #5-#7 BD range is helpful.

Photos

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