Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Davidson Wall

Australians at the Forks T,S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Bach's Celebration T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b PG13
Bladerunner T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Brown Derby T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Bushdoctor T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Bushman T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Equalizer, The T 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c R
Flake, The T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b R
Jane Fonda Workout T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b PG13
Kingfolia T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Kingkinkus T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Loose Lips T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Paradise Lost T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Queenfolia T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Retard's Recess T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Three Turkeys T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Torpedo T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Trapeze T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Watusi T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b PG13
Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: Jim Waugh
Page Views: 2,250 total, 16/month
Shared By: JJ Schlick on Aug 17, 2006
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


13 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

If you are looking for a line which is a little more on the technical side of things, then you just found it. The Watusi (Waugh-tusi?) is a classic dance between 5.12 cranks and small, spacey protection.

To the right of Equalizer. Climb up right facing dihedral to a slender, detached looking pillar just past midheight. Get on top of that and let the fun begin with long, bouldery moves on positive edges. Just when you think its over the bulge at the top will test you one more time.

Location

Middle of the Davidson wall, next system right of the Equalizer.

Protection

Small/ medium wires and an assortment of cams.

Photos

markguycan
flagstaff, AZ
 
markguycan   flagstaff, AZ
 
pillar block is still there but it wobbles a bit! Apr 8, 2010
LeeAB Brinckerhoff
ABQ, NM
  5.12b
LeeAB Brinckerhoff   ABQ, NM  
  5.12b
Huge reach with bad feet. Aug 18, 2008
Not to sure about that JJ, but Mike S. said it didn't feel much harder Jul 15, 2008
JJ Schlick
Flagstaff, AZ
 
JJ Schlick   Flagstaff, AZ  
 
This may make placing some of the small gear a bit harder... Jul 5, 2008
Just a heads up as of a week or two ago that detatched pillar is about 2 feet shorter. From what I could see the detatched block that was on top of it is sitting at the bottom of the route with a big X on it. Routes not much harder, now when the rest of that detatched pillar goes... Jun 15, 2008
Michael Sokoloff
Spokane, WA
Michael Sokoloff   Spokane, WA
Lead this yesterday. I would not give this route an R rating. The pro was bomber the entire way. That said, protection for the business section was all small wires and took some thought and time to place. If you are honed at stemming and placement of small wires this pitch is worth an onsight attempt. There is one key nut placement where you have a great handhold but thin stemming for the feet. It was quite exciting. The roof finish is awesome and not as hard as it looks. May 22, 2007