Type: Trad, 80 ft (24 m)
FA: Heinz Zak, Paul Davidson- early 80's
Page Views: 5,668 total · 31/month
Shared By: JJ Schlick on Aug 12, 2006
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick, Brian Boyd

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Access Issue: Coconino & Kaibab National Forest Closure 6/23/21 Details


Acid Test Crack or Ice Cream Dreams. Know it as either, but love it all the same. This route was listed as Acid Test Crack in Tim Toula's historic, A Cheap Way To Fly, and many locals refer to it as such, with all due respect to Heinz for cranking out the FA. Definitely one the best sections of 5.12 fingers at the Forks!

Start out by bouldering fractured rock on thin holds to gain the crack proper. This section is a bit touch and go, and many preplace a cam above this section on rappel to protect it, however, many do it from the ground as well. After the initial nerve test, button down the hatches for some sequencey fingers and tips moves. When the crack tightens down expect to find some good boulder problem cruxes. Take your rests wisely. Hard climbing from bottom to top with several good shakes.

This is by far one of my favorite pitches at the Forks. If you are looking for something which is steep, dramatic, stunning, and well positioned, then you need look no further. It does see onsights, but not often.


Far south end of the Gold wall


Sparse at the bottom. The rest of the route is G. Wires, and a lot of finger sized pieces.