All Locations > California > Tahquitz & Suicid… > Tahquitz Rock > (f) West Face Bul… > Upper Bulge Routes
Avg: 3.5 from 33 votes
Routes in Upper Bulge Routes
|Bat, The T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R|
|Crucifix, The T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a|
|Field of Dreams T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a|
|Flakes, The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c|
|Le Toit T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a|
|Pharaoh, The T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a|
|Price of Fear, The T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b|
|Stairway to Heaven T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a|
|Step, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Super Pooper T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Vampire, The T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c|
|Type:||Trad, 500 ft, 4 pitches, Grade II|
|FA:||FA: Robbins, Wilson 7/53. FFA: Long, Sorenson, Harrison, Antel 1973.|
|Page Views:||6,245 total, 46/month|
|Shared By:||AJ on Sep 17, 2006|
|Admins:||C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes|
DescriptionThis is one of my favorite Tahquitz routes, although it does have a few dubious aspects. What I like about it is the exposed position and the neat features it links up. What may detract slightly from its stature is that the pitches are short and its cruxes are very sequency and height dependent.
P1: 5.11a. Climb the very thin crack up to the roof. The gear is good but a little technical, mostly thin stopper placements with a small TCU or two. Just under the roof, make a tricky stem right. Then pull the roof and belay at a small tree in a right facing corner.
P2: 5.8. This is the easy pitch, but the position is fantastic. Climb up the right facing corner a short ways (you can continue straight up and climb the entire corner, this is the second pitch of Stairway to Heaven and a great option in its own right), then make a cool blind step left around the arete to gain a spectacular left-tending thin flake. Great position here. This pitch ends on a big ledge which is shared by Stairway to Heaven on the right and Super Pooper on the left.
P3: 5.11. Climb a crack to the top of a little pedestal, where you will be faced with a blank bulge. Reach high to clip a bolt, then either make a huge reach to an edge or do a bouldery move off thin sidepulls. Follow a ramp left to another belay stance near the base of an enormous right-facing corner.
P4: 5.10c. The original finish wanders up and right on easy slabs to the top. This is about 5.6 and not very exciting. The much better finish is called "The Price of Fear". Step left around the arete of the huge corner, where you will find a 1" crack just a couple feet from the arete. After 30-40' the crack peters out into 5.10c face climbing past 4-5 bolts. Exciting, but not as scary as the name implies. This is a great pitch and a wild ending to this fun climb.