Elevation: 4,000 ft
GPS: 34.032, -116.04 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 66,963 total · 329/month
Shared By: C Miller on Nov 8, 2003
Admins: Greg Opland, C Miller, M Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

Description

The OZ Area encompasses OZ_ proper as well as the Hollywood Area and Magic Mountain Area. Approaches vary from crag to crag, with some some offering roadside cragging and others reached after a 30-45 minute walk. Some of the crags require hiking over rough and rocky terrain to reach, and ticks can be present in the washes at certain times of the year.

The lower elevation and mix of roadside and remote crags make this a good bet to escape the crowds of the western part of the Park as well as another alternative for those cold days.

Getting There

There are two main parking spots used to access the OZ area and both are located north of the Pinto Wye (the intersection of the main road and the road that heads to Cottonwood and I-10).

The southern parking area is in a turnout 1.4 miles north of Pinto Wye and 3.5 miles south of the North Entrance (29 Palms gate). This is used to access the Munchkinland Area - No Place Like Dome, Voodoo Dome, Munchkinland Crag and more. No Place Like Dome is the obvious dark formation visible from the road, while the other formations lie strewn about the rugged hills and washes of the area.

The northern parking area is .3 miles north of the southern parking area at a pullout with an exhibit. The mileages are 1.7 north of the Pinto Wye and 3.2 miles south of the North Entrance. This is used to access the Valley of Voices, Poppy Field Boulders, Emerald City and the Hollywood Area. Walk straight west from the parking area, passing along the edge of a low hillside, and then enter a huge wash which is followed slightly uphill to the various areas. Valley of Voices lies up the first side canyon on the left; Emerald City is up the second, past the Poppy Field Boulders; Hollywood is reached by continuing up the wash past a rocky section until you reach a large open valley with some attractive formations.

92 Total Climbs

Route Finder - Best Climbs for YOU!

Location: OZ Area Change
Type:  to 
Quality:
Pitches:
Sort by:   then:
 

Classic Climbing Routes at OZ Area

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 14
Military Haircut
Sport
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 13
Hawk's Nest
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 26
Lesbian Lust
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 10
Squidbillies
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 14
Right Side Arete
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 18
The Rattler
Trad
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 7
Sonic Temple
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 17
Snake Book
Trad
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 3
Meat is Murder
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Military Haircut Magic Mtn Area > Elf's Hat
 14
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Sport
Hawk's Nest OZ_ > Hawk Hatchery
 13
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
Lesbian Lust Hollywood Area > N Hollywood > Zsa Zsa Gabor Memoria…
 26
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Squidbillies Magic Mtn Area > Elf's Hat
 10
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Right Side Arete Hollywood Area > N Hollywood > Zsa Zsa Gabor Memoria…
 14
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
The Rattler OZ_ > Emerald City
 18
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad
Sonic Temple OZ_ > Emerald City
 7
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Snake Book OZ_ > Emerald City
 17
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Trad
Meat is Murder Magic Mtn Area > Steep One
 3
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
More Classic Climbs in OZ Area »

Weather Averages

High
 
Low
 
Precip
 
Days w Precip
 
Prime Climbing Season
J F M A M J J A S O N D
J F M A M J J A S O N D

Photos