Elevation: 6,000 ft
GPS: 33.771, -116.696 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 403,545 total · 2,276/month
Shared By: C Miller on Jan 19, 2006
Admins: C Miller, M Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

General Description

Suicide Rock, the smaller of the two rocks above the town of Idyllwild, is primarily a traditional crag and features routes from one to three pitches in length accessed by a relatively casual 30 minute hike from the parking area.

Please note this is a traditional crag and although sport routes do exist they are the exception. It's important to keep in mind that even fully bolted routes requiring nothing more than quickdraws tend to be runout and somewhat serious leads.

The area is well known for it's quality, albeit runout, slab and face climbing and is home to numerous routes from 5.6 to 5.13 with most being in the 5.11 and under range. Some of the better routes here include Mickey Mantle (5.8 R), Serpentine (5.9), Ten Karat Gold (5.10a R), Hair Lip (5.10a), Revelation (5.10a), Montezuma's Revenge (5.10b R), Sundance (5.10b), Godzilla's Return (5.10d R), Valhalla (5.11a), Iron Cross (5.11a), The Man Who Fell to Earth (5.11a), Rebolting Development (5.11b R), Disco Jesus (5.11b), New Generation (5.11c), Moondance (5.11c), Double Exposure Direct (5.12a R), Burning Down the House (5.12b R), Caliente (5.12c), Ishi (5.12d) and Someone Your Not (5.13a).

Cracks are also in abundance here and although some of the easier ones are a bit grungy there are some fantastic cracks here ranging from 5.1 to 5.12+ with the majority in the 5.11 and under range. Some of the better routes here include Spring Cleaning (5.6), The Hernia (5.8), The Guillotine (5.8), Flower of High Rank (5.9), Munge Dihedral (5.10a), Hot Buttered Rump (5.10a), Johnny Quest (5.10a), Flakes of Wrath (5.10c R), Miscalculation (5.10c), Etude (5.11a), Insomnia (5.11b), The Drain Pipe (5.11b), Chisholm Trail (5.11b/c), Paisano Overhang (5.12c) and The Pirate (5.12d).

Getting There

The climber's trail to Suicide Rock starts across from some large water tanks located just past Forest Drive (where the main road start to bend right). Follow the trail downhill, cross a seasonal stream, and then make a right onto Foresthaven Drive (paved). Walk the paved road to it's end and then make a left onto a trail where you'll see a climber sign-in box. After about a 1/4 mile the trail is unmaintained and becomes much steeper and rocky. The trail will deposit you close to the right end of the (l) Buttress of Cracks and a little bit below the (m) The Weeping Wall. The approach to the base takes about 20-30 minutes depending upon your degree of fitness - plan on another 15-30 minutes or so to reach the Northeast Wall (Flower of High Rank) or the South Face respectively.

The Rock

The rock at Suicide Rock is a solid, fine-grained granite that through the effects of wind, water and time has been sculpted and polished into an amazing surface to climb on. Although never subjected to glaciation the rock can be distressingly smooth in places (Sunkist Face, Weeping Wall), yet in others the surface is rougher and more featured and provides some incredible holds.

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Adventure Pass

An Adventure Pass is required to legally park at Humber Park.

302 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Suicide Rock

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 164
Graham Crackers
Trad 2 pitches
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 81
Yours
Trad 2 pitches
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 80
Finger Lickin' Good
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
 67
Mickey Mantle
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 171
The Hernia
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 378
Flower of High Rank
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 132
Serpentine
Trad 3 pitches
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
 39
Ten Karat Gold
Trad 2 pitches
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 80
Sundike
Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 70
Peer Pressure
Trad
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 120
Sundance
Trad 3 pitches
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 135
Johnny Quest
Trad 2 pitches
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 62
Valhalla
Trad 3 pitches
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 110
Etude
Trad
5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 82
Insomnia
Trad
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Graham Crackers (v) N Face
 164
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad 2 pitches
Yours (v) N Face
 81
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad 2 pitches
Finger Lickin' Good (t) Eagle Pinnacle
 80
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
Mickey Mantle (h) Smooth Sole… > Smooth Sole Wall - Ri…
 67
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R Trad
The Hernia (l) Buttress of… > Buttress of Cracks -…
 171
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Flower of High Rank (u) Northeast Buttress
 378
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Serpentine (m) The Weeping Wall
 132
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad 3 pitches
Ten Karat Gold (m) The Weeping Wall
 39
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R Trad 2 pitches
Sundike (k) Sunshine Face > Sunshine Face - Right…
 80
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Peer Pressure (v) N Face
 70
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Sundance (k) Sunshine Face > Sunshine Face - Right…
 120
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad 3 pitches
Johnny Quest (u) Northeast Buttress
 135
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad 2 pitches
Valhalla (k) Sunshine Face > Sunshine Face - Right…
 62
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad 3 pitches
Etude (u) Northeast Buttress
 110
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad
Insomnia (l) Buttress of… > Buttress of Cracks -…
 82
5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a Trad
More Classic Climbs in Suicide Rock »

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