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Suicide Rock Rock Climbing
| Elevation: | 6,898 ft | 2,103 m |
| GPS: |
33.77004, -116.69407 Google Map · Climbing Area Map |
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| Page Views: | 608,560 total · 2,415/month | |
| Shared By: | C Miller on Jan 19, 2006 · Updates | |
| Admins: | C Miller, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes, Salamanizer Ski |
General Description
Suicide Rock, the smaller of the two rocks above the town of Idyllwild, is primarily a traditional crag and features routes from one to three pitches in length accessed by a relatively casual 30 minute hike from the parking area.
The area is well known for it's quality, albeit runout, slab and face climbing and is home to numerous routes from 5.6 to 5.13 with most being in the 5.11 and under range.
Cracks are also in abundance here and although some of the easier ones are a bit grungy there are some fantastic cracks here ranging from 5.1 to 5.12+ with the majority in the 5.11 and under range.
- This is a traditional crag and although sport routes do exist they are the exception.
- It's important to keep in mind that even fully bolted routes requiring nothing more than quickdraws tend to be runout and somewhat serious leads.
Getting There
Suicide Rock parking location: as you drive up Fern Valley Rd. heading towards Humber Park, turn right at Forest Drive and park along the side of the road closest to the large green water tanks, here - 33°45'58.5"N 116°41'23.7"W
The climber's trail to Suicide Rock starts across from some large water tanks located just past Forest Drive (where the main road start to bend right).
Climber's trail location ("Climbers Trail 3E06"), here: 24598 Fern Valley Rd, Idyllwild-Pine Cove, CA 92549
Follow the trail downhill, cross a seasonal stream, and then make a right onto Forest Haven Drive (paved).
Walk the paved road to it's end and then make a left onto a trail where you'll see a climber sign-in box.
After about a 1/4 mile the trail is unmaintained and becomes much steeper and rocky. The trail will deposit you close to the right end of the (l) Buttress of Cracks and a little bit below the (m) The Weeping Wall.
- The approach to the base takes about 20-30 minutes depending upon your degree of fitness - plan on another 15-30 minutes or so to reach the Northeast Wall (Flower of High Rank) or the South Face respectively.
The Rock
The rock at Suicide Rock is a solid, fine-grained granite that through the effects of wind, water and time has been sculpted and polished into an amazing surface to climb on. Although never subjected to glaciation the rock can be distressingly smooth in places (Sunkist Face, Weeping Wall), yet in others the surface is rougher and more featured and provides some incredible holds.
Classic Climbing Routes at Suicide Rock
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