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Areas in Suicide Rock

(j) Paisano Pinnacle 11 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 11
(n) Rebolting Face 11 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 11
(a) Winter Slab 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1
(aa) Unknown Wall 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0
(b) Arpa Carpa Cliff 4 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 4
(c) Le Dent Pinnacle 12 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 14
(d) Deception Pillar 3 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 4
(e) South Face 16 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 16
(f) Limp Dick 5 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 6
(g) Obsession Boulder 2 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 3
(h) Smooth Sole Walls 16 / 1 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 17
(i) Below Smooth Sole Wall Face 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2
(k) Sunshine Face 37 / 1 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 39
(l) Buttress of Cracks 30 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 30
(m) The Weeping Wall 15 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 15
(o) Right of the Escalator 16 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 17
(p) Godzilla Face 5 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 5
(q) Sunkist Face 4 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 4
(r) Sideshow Slab 4 / 1 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 6
(s) Tiny Pillars 3 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 5
(t) Eagle Pinnacle 19 / 1 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 22
(u) Northeast Buttress 16 / 0 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 16
(v) North Face 23 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 23
Elevation: 6,000 ft
GPS: 33.771, -116.696 Google Map · Climbing Map
Page Views: 195,538 total, 1,350/month
Shared By: C Miller on Jan 19, 2006
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

General Description

Suicide Rock, the smaller of the two rocks above the town of Idyllwild, is primarily a traditional crag and features routes from one to three pitches in length accessed by a relatively casual 30 minute hike from the parking area.

Please note this is a traditional crag and although sport routes do exist they are the exception. It's important to keep in mind that even fully bolted routes requiring nothing more than quickdraws tend to be runout and somewhat serious leads.

The area is well known for it's quality, albeit runout, slab and face climbing and is home to numerous routes from 5.6 to 5.13 with most being in the 5.11 and under range. Some of the better routes here include Mickey Mantle (5.8 R), Serpentine (5.9), Ten Karat Gold (5.10a R), Hair Lip (5.10a), Revelation (5.10a), Montezuma's Revenge (5.10b R), Sundance (5.10b), Godzilla's Return (5.10d R), Valhalla (5.11a), Iron Cross (5.11a), The Man Who Fell to Earth (5.11a), Rebolting Development (5.11b R), Disco Jesus (5.11b), New Generation (5.11c), Moondance (5.11c), Double Exposure Direct (5.12a R), Burning Down the House (5.12b R), Caliente (5.12c), Ishi (5.12d) and Someone You're Not (5.13a).

Cracks are also in abundance here and although some of the easier ones are a bit grungy there are some fantastic cracks here ranging from 5.1 to 5.12+ with the majority in the 5.11 and under range. Some of the better routes here include Spring Cleaning (5.6), The Hernia (5.8), The Guillotine (5.8), Flower of High Rank (5.9), Munge Dihedral (5.10a), Hot Buttered Rump (5.10a), Johnny Quest (5.10a), Flakes of Wrath (5.10c R), Miscalculation (5.10c), Etude (5.11a), Insomnia (5.11b), The Drain Pipe (5.11b), Chisholm Trail (5.11b/c), Paisano Overhang (5.12c) and The Pirate (5.12d).

Getting There

The climber's trail to Suicide Rock starts across from some large water tanks located just past Forest Drive (where the main road start to bend right). Follow the trail downhill, cross a seasonal stream, and then make a right onto Foresthaven Drive (paved). Walk the paved road to it's end and then make a left onto a trail where you'll see a climber sign-in box. After about a 1/4 mile the trail is unmaintained and becomes much steeper and rocky. The trail will deposit you close to the right end of the (l) Buttress of Cracks and a little bit below the (m) The Weeping Wall. The approach to the base takes about 20-30 minutes depending upon your degree of fitness - plan on another 15-30 minutes or so to reach the Northeast Wall (Flower of High Rank) or the South Face respectively.

The Rock

The rock at Suicide Rock is a solid, fine-grained granite that through the effects of wind, water and time has been sculpted and polished into an amazing surface to climb on. Although never subjected to glaciation the rock can be distressingly smooth in places (Sunkist Face, Weeping Wall), yet in others the surface is rougher and more featured and provides some incredible holds.

Weather Webcam

http://www.climbidy.com/

Adventure Pass

An Adventure Pass is required to legally park at Humber Park.

271 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Suicide Rock

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Graham Crackers
Trad 2 pitches
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Yours
Trad 2 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Mickey Mantle
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
The Hernia
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Flower of High Rank
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Serpentine
Trad 3 pitches
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Ten Karat Gold
Trad 2 pitches
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Sundike
Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Hair Lip
Trad
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Sundance
Trad 3 pitches
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Johnny Quest
Trad 2 pitches
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Valhalla
Trad 3 pitches
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Etude
Trad
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Insomnia
Trad
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
The Pirate
Trad 2 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Graham Crackers (v) N Face 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad 2 pitches
Yours (v) N Face 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad 2 pitches
Mickey Mantle (h) Smooth Sole W… > Smooth Sole Wall - Right Side 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R Trad
The Hernia (l) Buttress of C… > Buttress of Cracks - Left Side 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Flower of High Rank (u) Northeast Buttress 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Serpentine (m) The Weeping Wall 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad 3 pitches
Ten Karat Gold (m) The Weeping Wall 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R Trad 2 pitches
Sundike (k) Sunshine Face > Sunshine Face - Right Side 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Hair Lip (o) Right of the Escalator 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Sundance (k) Sunshine Face > Sunshine Face - Right Side 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad 3 pitches
Johnny Quest (u) Northeast Buttress 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad 2 pitches
Valhalla (k) Sunshine Face > Sunshine Face - Right Side 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad 3 pitches
Etude (u) Northeast Buttress 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad
Insomnia (l) Buttress of C… > Buttress of Cracks - Left Side 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Trad
The Pirate (l) Buttress of C… > Buttress of Cracks - Left Side 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b Trad 2 pitches
More Classic Climbs in Suicide Rock »

Weather Averages

High
 
Low
 
Precip
 
Days w Precip
 
Prime Climbing Season
J F M A M J J A S O N D
J F M A M J J A S O N D
Kazu Watanabe
Irvine, CA
Kazu Watanabe   Irvine, CA
There are a couple of bee nests at the base of Sunshine face. I have been attacked twice this year. Watch out. Oct 20, 2014
agd
agd  
As always in southern California, watch out for rattlesnakes. I almost stepped on one that was coiled on the approach to Buttress of Cracks. They are very camo'd. Jul 6, 2012
Jim Dover
Idyllwild, CA
Jim Dover   Idyllwild, CA
Suicide Rock FA list in chronological order (not that anyone but me cares)! If you notice errors or want to contribute to this list, email me.

1. Paisano Jam Crack, 5.10a, 2/55 (1955!!!!)
2. Limp Dick, 5.10a, 5/59
3. Munge Dihedral, 5.10a, 1960s?
4. Surprise, 5.8R, 4/66
5. Goliath, 5.7, 6/66
6. David, 5.7R, 6/66
7. Surprise Direct, 5.9, 8/66
8. First Pitch, 5.8, 10/66
9. Captain Hook, 5.8, 10/66
10. The Step Away, 5.8R, 11/66
11. Sundance, 5.10b, 1/67
12. Buttress Chimney, 5.8, 1967?
13. The Pirate, 5.12c/d, 6/67
14. Hesitation, 5.10a, 7/67
15. The Hernia, 5.8, 8/67
16. Sampson, 5.9R, 8/67
17. Flake Out, 5.7, 9/67
18. Piasano Overhang, 5.12c, 1/68
19. Delila, 5.9, 1/68
20. The Breeze, 5.10a, 2/68
21. Pass Time, 5.9, 3/68
22. Frustration, 5.10a, 3/68
23. Sword of Damocles, 5.9, 3/68
24. Graham Crackers, 5.6, 4/68
25. Hot Buttered Rump, 5.10a, 4/68
26. Piasano Chimney, 5.8, 5/68
27. Axe of God, 5.8, 5/68
28. Flatman Chimney, 5.9, 5/68
29. Tabby Treat, 5.1, 5/68
30. Deception Pillar, 5.9, 7/68
31. CatÂ’s Cave Inn, 5.8, 9/68
32. Spooky Spike, 5.9, 12/68
33. The Guillotine, 5.8R, 10/69
34. Etude, 5.11a, 11/69 Oct 3, 2011
Bruce Diffenbaugh
Cheyenne,Wyoming
Bruce Diffenbaugh   Cheyenne,Wyoming
Please NOTE; This is a Historical climbing area! Do not add ANY fixed protection to ANY existing route! Fixed Pins,Bolts and or Anchor replacement should ONLY be done by those with knowledge of the area and its history. PLEASE RESPECT THIS. Have a good day and enjoy the climbing. Feb 12, 2008
Chris Owen
Big Bear Lake
Chris Owen   Big Bear Lake  
Very cold weather yeilds good results when climbing the thin face/slab routes, at least it has for me. Hotter weather increases the routes' difficulty IMHO. Oct 27, 2007
For the first timer, the trail to the rock base can be a bit unclear. From the road sign pictured above to the service road some 200 yards away is nice, with plentiful (but unnecessary) carsonite signs. From here, one hangs a right following the paved road for about a half mile, before turning left. After a carsonite sign or two, one encounters the "end of maintained trail" sign, and a quick steep little section. After this, the trail is somewhat evident, but deteriorates after this. Many windy days this year have left a lot debris (some real big downed trees too) on the forest floor, so the weave on the way up, may not be the same path taken back down. It is this run of the trail that could use the half dozen carsonite signs found below, and a bit of chainsawing. Feb 19, 2007

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