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Elevation: 6,898 ft
GPS: 33.77004, -116.69407
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 603,671 total · 2,737/month
Shared By: C Miller on Jan 19, 2006
Admins: C Miller, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

General Description Suggest change

Suicide Rock, the smaller of the two rocks above the town of Idyllwild, is primarily a traditional crag and features routes from one to three pitches in length accessed by a relatively casual 30 minute hike from the parking area.

The area is well known for it's quality, albeit runout, slab and face climbing and is home to numerous routes from 5.6 to 5.13 with most being in the 5.11 and under range.

Cracks are also in abundance here and although some of the easier ones are a bit grungy there are some fantastic cracks here ranging from 5.1 to 5.12+ with the majority in the 5.11 and under range.

  • This is a traditional crag and although sport routes do exist they are the exception. 
  • It's important to keep in mind that even fully bolted routes requiring nothing more than quickdraws tend to be runout and somewhat serious leads.

Getting There Suggest change

The climber's trail to Suicide Rock starts across from some large water tanks located just past Forest Drive (where the main road start to bend right). 

Follow the trail downhill, cross a seasonal stream, and then make a right onto Foresthaven Drive (paved).

 Walk the paved road to it's end and then make a left onto a trail where you'll see a climber sign-in box. 

After about a 1/4 mile the trail is unmaintained and becomes much steeper and rocky. The trail will deposit you close to the right end of the (l) Buttress of Cracks and a little bit below the (m) The Weeping Wall. 

  • The approach to the base takes about 20-30 minutes depending upon your degree of fitness - plan on another 15-30 minutes or so to reach the Northeast Wall (Flower of High Rank) or the South Face respectively.

The Rock

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The rock at Suicide Rock is a solid, fine-grained granite that through the effects of wind, water and time has been sculpted and polished into an amazing surface to climb on. Although never subjected to glaciation the rock can be distressingly smooth in places (Sunkist Face, Weeping Wall), yet in others the surface is rougher and more featured and provides some incredible holds.

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Adventure Pass

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An Adventure Pass is required to legally park at Humber Park.

333 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Suicide Rock

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
 80
Mickey Mantle
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 456
Flower of High Rank
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 158
Serpentine
Trad 3 pitches
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
 50
Ten Karat Gold
Trad 2 pitches
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 96
Sundike
Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 54
Hair Lip
Trad
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 149
Sundance
Trad 3 pitches
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 178
Johnny Quest
Trad 2 pitches
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 76
Valhalla
Trad 3 pitches
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 143
Etude
Trad
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 20
Iron Cross
Trad 2 pitches
5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 107
Insomnia
Trad
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b R
 7
Paisano Overhang
Trad
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
 40
The Pirate
Trad 2 pitches
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
 7
Ishi
Trad 2 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Mickey Mantle (h) Smooth Sole… > Smooth Sole Wall - Ri…
 80
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R Trad
Flower of High Rank (u) Northeast Buttress
 456
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Serpentine (m) The Weeping Wall
 158
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad 3 pitches
Ten Karat Gold (m) The Weeping Wall
 50
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R Trad 2 pitches
Sundike (k) Sunshine Face > Sunshine Face - Right…
 96
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Hair Lip (o) Right of the Esca…
 54
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Sundance (k) Sunshine Face > Sunshine Face - Right…
 149
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad 3 pitches
Johnny Quest (u) Northeast Buttress
 178
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad 2 pitches
Valhalla (k) Sunshine Face > Sunshine Face - Right…
 76
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad 3 pitches
Etude (u) Northeast Buttress
 143
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad
Iron Cross (k) Sunshine Face > Sunshine Face - Right…
 20
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad 2 pitches
Insomnia (l) Buttress of… > Buttress of Cracks -…
 107
5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a Trad
Paisano Overhang (j) Paisano Pinnacle…
 7
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b R Trad
The Pirate (l) Buttress of… > Buttress of Cracks -…
 40
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b Trad 2 pitches
Ishi (k) Sunshine Face > Sunshine Face - Right…
 7
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b Trad 2 pitches
More Classic Climbs in Suicide Rock »

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