Flower of High Rank
Avg: 3.8 from 270 votes
Routes in (u) Northeast Buttress
|Etude T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c|
|Etude direct start T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13|
|Flake Out T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Flakes of Rad T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b|
|Flakes of Wrath T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R|
|Flower of High Rank T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Hey Dude T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a|
|Hidden Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Johnny Quest T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|My Brothers T,TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a|
|Race Bannon T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c|
|Rock Hudson T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b|
|Spooky Spike T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Spooky Spike Direct T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R|
|Vicious Rumors T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13|
|Wet Dreams T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c|
|Type:||Trad, 160 ft|
|FA:||Rob Muir and Mike Graham, October '72|
|Page Views:||27,112 total, 188/month|
|Shared By:||Andy Laakmann on Jan 20, 2006|
|Admins:||C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes|
DescriptionThe classic moderate crack at Suicide. You'll never tire of repeating this gem.
The climb is located where the Northeast Face becomes the North face and is easily identified by the tree (the flower?) growing right in the middle of the crack about 70 feet up. The tree is historically littered with slings to help identify it. The climb is just to the left of a huge (undesirable looking) right facing corner.. and you actually start up this corner to get to the main crack.
I prefer to do this climb in one long pitch, usually scrambling up to the base of the main crack for the first belay (some might want to rope this bit - and you'll need to build an anchor). With a 200' rope you could belay from the ground, but there's enough rope drag already so why add more. You can do the climb in two pitches and belay at the tree, but it is kind of a pain in the butt.
Once climbing you'll enjoy some quality jamming/stemming in the first section heading to the tree. Sustained moves from fingers to off-fingers to thin-hands will get you to the tree and a nice comfy rest. Want a 10a variety... don't use the left wall - my friend accidently did this and bitched his way up....
From the tree there are two cracks, one heading straight up and the other trending out a wild looking face to the right. The right crack has your name on it. Spectacular, exposed climbing up this arching crack leads to the route's final crux at the roof. The roof goes at 5.9, but take your time to figure it out... many a flailing here.
Some 5.7 jamming finishes the journey.
What a climb!