Type: Trad, 160 ft (48 m)
FA: Rob Muir and Mike Graham, October '72
Page Views: 35,082 total · 196/month
Shared By: Andy Laakmann on Jan 20, 2006
Admins: C Miller, M Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

The classic moderate crack at Suicide. You'll never tire of repeating this gem.

The climb is located where the Northeast Face becomes the North face and is easily identified by the tree (the flower?) growing right in the middle of the crack about 70 feet up. The tree is historically littered with slings to help identify it. The climb is just to the left of a huge (undesirable looking) right facing corner.. and you actually start up this corner to get to the main crack.

I prefer to do this climb in one long pitch, usually scrambling up to the base of the main crack for the first belay (some might want to rope this bit - and you'll need to build an anchor). With a 200' rope you could belay from the ground, but there's enough rope drag already so why add more. You can do the climb in two pitches and belay at the tree, but it is kind of a pain in the butt.

Once climbing you'll enjoy some quality jamming/stemming in the first section heading to the tree. Sustained moves from fingers to off-fingers to thin-hands will get you to the tree and a nice comfy rest. Want a 10a variety... don't use the left wall - my friend accidently did this and bitched his way up....

From the tree there are two cracks, one heading straight up and the other trending out a wild looking face to the right. The right crack has your name on it. Spectacular, exposed climbing up this arching crack leads to the route's final crux at the roof. The roof goes at 5.9, but take your time to figure it out... many a flailing here.

Some 5.7 jamming finishes the journey.

What a climb!

Protection

Standard rack including nuts, and 2x each cam from small ones to a #3

(I did this from five year old memory, so feel free to add more specific gear requirements)

Photos