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Routes in (u) Northeast Buttress

Etude T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Etude direct start T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Flake Out T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Flakes of Rad T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Flakes of Wrath T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Flower of High Rank T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Hey Dude T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Hidden Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Johnny Quest T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
My Brothers T,TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Race Bannon T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Rock Hudson T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Spooky Spike T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Spooky Spike Direct T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Vicious Rumors T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Wet Dreams T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Trad, 200 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Craig Fry and Spencer Lennard, 1979
Page Views: 8,283 total, 57/month
Shared By: Roger Linfield on Jan 25, 2006
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

Pitch 1 (crux) is a classic steep finger crack. You can either rappel 90' from the top of this pitch or continue to the top with the second pitch of Flake Out (5.6) or Flakes of Wrath (5.9R). This climb is in the shade after mid-morning for most of the year.

Protection

Gear to 2", 2 bolt anchor/rap (100')
Alex Jacques
Burlington, CT
Alex Jacques   Burlington, CT
Peter Lewis this must be your first day on MP... Ha Jun 6, 2017
Phil Esra  
 
Fun little route with a short approach with a few sketchy moves... Apr 7, 2015
Peter Lewis
Bridgton, Maine
Peter Lewis   Bridgton, Maine
Love the "sketchy approach" comment on a one-pitch climb. It's all about context, I guess. In Red Rocks, some people consider Black Orpheus to have a "sketchy approach" because of the 500 feet (at least) of 3rd and 4th class scrambling to get to the base. Others don't even notice it. Considering the winter we're having, sometimes it's sketchy for me to get out of the car to open the garage door.... Mar 18, 2015
Phil Esra  
 
In the shade well before Etude & Flower. Fun little route with a sketchy approach. 60m rap from the top puts you within a couple easy slab moves (to the climber's left) from the ground. Jun 30, 2014
Tradiban  
 
Excellent climbing but over too soon. 2" gear not needed. Aug 6, 2012
Jesse Davidson
san diego, ca
 
Jesse Davidson   san diego, ca
 
60 meters will get you comfortably off, as well, with a bit of down-scrambling Aug 25, 2009
A 70m rope will conveniently allow you to rappel from the 2-bolt anchor back down past the stacked blocks that C Miller describes and right to your packs.

The first pitch is one of my favorite pitches in Idyllwild. A must do! May 22, 2009
C Miller
CA
  5.10a
C Miller   CA  
  5.10a
Solo up from the left via easy moves (5.4) over sketchy stacked blocks or climb directly (5.8) up to the base.

A clean left-facing corner gains a wedged block and the traverse right to the short but quality finger crack. The rarely done 2nd pitch climbs dirty face to the top of the wall, but most rap after doing the 1st pitch. Jan 27, 2006