Type: Trad, 300 ft (91 m), 3 pitches
FA: Ivan Couch, Larry Reynolds & Mike Dent, November 1970
Page Views: 17,809 total · 100/month
Shared By: C Miller on Jan 20, 2006
Admins: C Miller, M Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

This ultra-classic tour of the Sunshine Face is perhaps the best face climb of it's grade at the rock, and long ago an ascent was a rite of passage that gained you entry into the fabled Stonemasters.

Scramble up to a ledge with a pine tree directly below Log Ledge, a sloping shelf with a dead log, and locate the start which lies just right of the pine tree.

P1) Climb past three bolts (5.11a) to the right side of Log Ledge and a 2 bolt belay.

P2) Traverse straight right, clip a bolt and make crux moves (5.11a) to another bolt. Higher the climbing eases considerably but wanders a bit (full-length runners are handy on the bolts to reduce rope drag) to gain a two bolt semi-hanging belay.

P3) Straight up (5.10a) off the belay to reach a bolt, then slightly left to clip the first bolt of Sundance's 3rd pitch and then up and right past a final bolt to the top. Gear belay in cracks at the top.

Descend via Bye Gully or by rappelling back down the face (not recommended if the wall is crowded).

Protection

Gear to 2 inches, bolts and include some full-length runners

Photos