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Routes in Sunshine Face - Right Side

Bukatude T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Buttress Chimney T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Drain Pipe, The T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
First Pitch T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Gates of Delirium T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Golden Oldies T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Hesitation T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Hesitation Direct T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Iron Cross T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Ishi T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Last of the Mohicans T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Moondance T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
New Generation T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Nirvana T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Quiet Desperation T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Race With The Devil T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R
Red Rain T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Sidewinder T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Stretch, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Sundance T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Sundance Arete T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b R
Sundike T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Valhalla T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Voodoo Child T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Type: Trad, 300 ft, 3 pitches
FA: Ivan Couch, Larry Reynolds & Mike Dent, November 1970
Page Views: 14,194 total, 98/month
Shared By: C Miller on Jan 20, 2006
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

This ultra-classic tour of the Sunshine Face is perhaps the best face climb of it's grade at the rock, and long ago an ascent was a rite of passage that gained you entry into the fabled Stonemasters.

Scramble up to a ledge with a pine tree directly below Log Ledge, a sloping shelf with a dead log, and locate the start which lies just right of the pine tree.

P1) Climb past three bolts (5.11a) to the right side of Log Ledge and a 2 bolt belay.

P2) Traverse straight right, clip a bolt and make crux moves (5.11a) to another bolt. Higher the climbing eases considerably but wanders a bit (full-length runners are handy on the bolts to reduce rope drag) to gain a two bolt semi-hanging belay.

P3) Straight up (5.10a) off the belay to reach a bolt, then slightly left to clip the first bolt of Sundance's 3rd pitch and then up and right past a final bolt to the top. Gear belay in cracks at the top.

Descend via Bye Gully or by rappelling back down the face (not recommended if the wall is crowded).

Protection

bolts, gear to 2", include some full-length runners
How does this compare to Price of Fear? I've heard that price of fear is considered soft for 10c. Sep 27, 2016
Kristian Solem
Monrovia, CA
Kristian Solem   Monrovia, CA
Second Fat Dad re broken ankles. I saw it happen once. A guy came off above the first bolt on P2. On the way down his feet hit the sloping ledge you traverse out to get that bolt. If you fall here it might be best to shove off a bit so as to miss that feature... Jun 13, 2015
Tradiban
  5.11a
Tradiban  
  5.11a
The topo in the Vogel guide is a bit off for P2, I would describe it as: From log ledge, traverse down and right, clip a bolt then take one step right and head straight up for a bolt. From here head left, more so then the topo suggests. After exhausting the left most bolts, trend back right and straight for the anchor.

There's an errant bolt on P3 to the left, not sure what it is for. ?P3 could be considered runout.

The cruxs are short and sweet on this one, a great intro to 11 slab. Nov 18, 2014
ACassebeer
Mojave, CA
  5.11a R
ACassebeer   Mojave, CA
  5.11a R
I highly recommend linking P1 & P2. Based on where the P1 belay is, linking actually seems safer for the leader. The hardest moves were definitely past the 1st bolt on P2. The awesome features on this route seem to set it apart. Jan 27, 2014
Much respect for all the Stone Masters that came before. I had to wait 'till I turned 50 to summon the courage for this brilliant route. Fortunate enough to take advantage of a perfect Nov. day. No way I'm doing that route in my eb's.... Nov 27, 2013
Souljah
Northern NM
  5.11a
Souljah   Northern NM
  5.11a
"a voice from behind a tree..."

I can so picture that. Harrr! I remember one day he asked for a belay on the Flower. I thought it was an odd request since it was on his solo circuit , but I volunteered to second for the hell of it. When I turned the roof he told me we were doing Wet Dreams. Gotta love it!

With the advantage in rubber, I never did pitch from that black nipple P-1 Valhalla. And after the purple La Sportiva arrived on the market I never wore Fires again. May 28, 2012
Randy in Ridgecrest
Inyokern, CA
Randy in Ridgecrest   Inyokern, CA
Climbed this first time in 1981 with Clark Jacobs (a voice from behind a tree "hey, need a partner?"). I led P1 and P2, taking a slip at the crux of P2. One of my last climbs in EB's. Clark led up a then new variation third pitch, I thought it was kind of run out. Did it again in 1992 with sticky rubber. Slipped on the black glassy inclusion crux of P1, thought P2 crux was easier. Maybe it was just warm but I thought it had polished up over the years.

My impression on the change from EB's to Fire was you could really relax with the sticky rubber. It didn't make thin edging easier (and EB's were good at that) but you didn't have to climb technical as much of the time. May 22, 2012
Souljah
Northern NM
  5.11a
Souljah   Northern NM
  5.11a
Jacobs to yours truly in 1983: "Look for the hidden hold at the P-2 crux." Hehe!

Had the luxury of 1st-gen Fires on my initial go. The thought of leading this route in anything less provokes an involuntary facial twitch. May 2, 2012
It's really amazing how much shoe technology has changed all of these climbs, especially ones like Valhalla. In the early 70s, pre-EBs, this climb was scaled in red PAs, RDs, and various "boots" like Calcairs and Robbins shoes. The climb because much easier in EBs, and once the sticky rubber came along, we were no longer talking about the same climb at all. BITD, one tiny error and you were off.

JL Jan 3, 2010
Fat Dad
Los Angeles, CA
 
Fat Dad   Los Angeles, CA
 
The Troll, an old Idyllwild local, used to say that the black knob on the first pitch was time released for 30 seconds. He's right. Also, despite the encouragement above, don't jump on this just because you've done Sundance. It's WAY harder and the second pitch crux has been the scene of a couple of busted ankles. Jan 22, 2009
For some extra value added, the first two pitches can be combined into a one pitch lead. Do not clip the first belay anchors, and be sure to make liberal use of slings to reduce rope drag. Use a 60m rope, 70m preferrable. Jul 9, 2008
Andy Laakmann
Bend, OR
  5.11a
Andy Laakmann   Bend, OR  
  5.11a
A classic for sure. Cool moves between features, rather than the typical "can you stick" slab. Well protected where you need it, though the crux on the 2nd pitch comes a bit up and right of the bolt. If Sundance feels comfortable, than by all means jump on Valhalla - you won't be disappointed. Be sure to bring lots of long slings for the 2nd pitch, or the rope drag will suck. And on the first pitch, your follower can be in for quite a swing if they blow it after unclipping the second bolt (still 10+). We didn't try it, but it looks like you could pull the rope through and drop it straight down to your follower and it will make it much safer. May 27, 2008
usetob
Visalia, Ca.
 
usetob   Visalia, Ca.
 
Difficulty right next to bolts gets easier as you move up. Totally classic for the whole climb. May 5, 2008
Is this really 11a? It felt softer when I did it in 1989.
ls, is there still a bloody great tree sitting in the middle of one of the first pitches? That was the weirdest thing...... Apr 18, 2008
Bruce Diffenbaugh
Cheyenne,Wyoming
  5.11a
Bruce Diffenbaugh   Cheyenne,Wyoming
  5.11a
Another 70's classic one best lines on this face.Just think about doing this route with 70's shoes and gear????? This route has been made easer due to today's shoe technology. Feb 5, 2008
Adam Stackhouse

  5.11a
Adam Stackhouse    
  5.11a
As I recall, when Dan'O and I did this route, we kinda got off route on the first pitch vearing left over to Bukatude protecting the .11 move on that pitch (there were no bolts when we did it) with a few dubious sliding nuts under some flakes. The rest of route, was straight forward, and well protected (even by today's standards). Very much an ultra-classic, with a great heritage. P2 is "da bomb!" Nov 19, 2006
Chris Owen
Big Bear Lake
  5.11a
Chris Owen   Big Bear Lake  
  5.11a
Took a plunge off the first pitch once, slipped off the black glassy knob and ended up back on the ground (or should I say ledge) - no harm done except to my pride. Got back on the horse and did okay - thin and technical is pitch 1... Mar 11, 2006