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Routes in Sunshine Face - Right Side

Bukatude T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Buttress Chimney T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Drain Pipe, The T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
First Pitch T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Gates of Delirium T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Golden Oldies T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Hesitation T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Hesitation Direct T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Iron Cross T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Ishi T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Last of the Mohicans T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Moondance T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
New Generation T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Nirvana T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Quiet Desperation T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Race With The Devil T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R
Red Rain T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Sidewinder T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Stretch, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Sundance T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Sundance Arete T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b R
Sundike T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Valhalla T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Voodoo Child T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Type: Trad, 300 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Dave Evans and Craig Fry - 1986, Direct start: Darrell Hensel and Dave Evans - 1986
Page Views: 2,666 total, 23/month
Shared By: Darrell Hensel on Jul 8, 2008
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

Sustained climbing on beautiful, impeccable gold rock. Brilliant route - one of the best on the face, without a doubt.

Pitch 1: Start on Sundance's easy 5.7 crack. About 30' up set up a belay, either on the top of the flake or at the base of the Sundance lieback. If the belay remains on the ground it won't be possible to reach the anchors at the end of the pitch. Climb up and left onto the steep bulge and pass two bolts (11c). Continuous climbing leads past six more bolts and finishes with an exciting runout to a triple bolt anchor. A full length runner on the obvious rightmost bolt will help reduce rope drag and make the finishing runout more pleasant.

Pitch 2: Pass another set of double bolts and work up and right, joining Sundike for it's last two bolts. Pay attention making the hard moves to the double bolts, a fall will go directly onto the belay anchor.

The 11c crux can be avoided by traversing left into the first pitch (3rd bolt) from the Log Ledge belay of Sundance.

Location

Between the Iron Cross and Sundance. Start the same as Sundance.

Protection

Bolts and a couple of small cams (up to about .4 camalot) to protect the moves to the first bolt. A couple of large cams (plus can reach around the corner and clip a bolt of the Sundance Arete) for a belay at the base of the Sundance lieback. 60m rope recommended. 70m rope makes it possible to rapp Sundance.

Photos

Tradiban  
 
Approached this from Nirvana start and then did the OG 11a traverse in. I clipped the bolt off log ledge, did the Sundance start and clipped a long runner to the next bolt, down climbed and then set off to clip the third bolt on Moondance.

This pitch has classic all over it, perfect rock, thoughtful moves and heady but safe run-out. Aug 28, 2017
Jon Clark
Philadelphia, PA
 
Jon Clark   Philadelphia, PA
 
Wow, what a route. Awesome climbing on flawless rock.

I was able to reach the belay with a 60m rope and my partner on the ground. He was slightly down and left Sundance's 5.7 crack. Jun 7, 2015
D. Evans
Tustin, California
D. Evans   Tustin, California
Huh? WTF?

Interesting (read as crazy) comment above! Apr 8, 2011
Craig Fry
  5.11c
Craig Fry  
  5.11c
I spotted the route when I was taking Lisa Knade, and Sonia up Sundance. I planned for me and DE to do it the next weekend, But DE had Flying Circus planned for that weekend. So first we did that, and me and DE had a little problem, because I was impatient when belaying Marge on the 5.11d face section, sorry Marge.

But after the hell, I did get DE to the start, and the route was fantastic.

Going out on that open face, placing bolt after bolt, one of my best loved moments in climbing.

Don't bother with 5.12a direct start, I am still upset at DE for getting Henny to lead it for him, and leaving me out in the cold once again. It was my route idea, one of the best routes at Suicide, my route name, and I dragged DE to the base, yet he finishes it off with Henny.!! I did not appreciate DE for this add ON. Why couldn't he get me to come along, as part of the team???

But the one funny thing about the route, is that Largo was walking at the base, and saw us up on the route, and yelled "send down a rope. so I can come up and do the FA with you guys"
We yell back "no largo, the rope won't reach, sorry" as we giggled!! Jan 30, 2011
Mike Graham
  5.11c/d
Mike Graham  
  5.11c/d
What a great route!

The crux is quite a crank on a near vertical bulge and there’s very little for your feet. This route keeps coming at you. In Hensel’s own words, “There’s a party between every bolt” and you can believe it.

The initial work that Dave and Craig put into it is quite impressive also. My suggestion is to be sure you had your “Oats” the morning before you go to tick off this show. Jul 16, 2008