Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Bob Gaines and Dave Mayville, 1993
Page Views: 639 total · 5/month
Shared By: Darrell Hensel on Jul 9, 2008
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


2 Opinions

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Description

Very hard thin climbing at the last bolt with runout climbing preceeding it on the arete.

Start just right of Sundance on a flake. Pass a bolt (11a), then move up and right to obtain the arete that forms the right hand edge of the Sundance lieback corner. Climb past two bolts, moving right then up (12b) at the last bolt.

Location

Alternate first pitch to Sundance.

Protection

Bolts, gear to .75"

Photos

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A potential 11a direct start to Sundance, but beware - it's harder than it looks from the ground and there's not a great stance to clip the first bolt from. Jul 19, 2009
johannsolo
So Cal, now in Sandy, UT
johannsolo   So Cal, now in Sandy, UT
The upper part of the arĂȘte section seems unclimbable, at least at 12b. Jan 7, 2018
Darrell Hensel
  5.12b
Darrell Hensel  
  5.12b
I remember moving right a bit to finish at the end, on somewhat friable holds. Or are you saying it has become harder getting to the last bolt (while still more or less on the arĂȘte)? The rock didn't seem bomber, and, it seemed hard. IMO, it could easily have changed. Jan 7, 2018
Bob Gaines  
 
According to my topo, from the top (3rd) bolt, you traverse quite a bit to the right (maybe 10 feet), then up. There's an 11a move past the first bolt, then 5.10 R from the 2nd to 3rd bolt. The crux after the 3rd bolt isn't as scary as getting up to the 3rd bolt.

For toproping, a 5-inch CD at Log Ledge is nice to prevent a swing from the top moves. Jan 7, 2018