Type: Trad, 200 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Larry Harrell & Charlie Raymond, March 1967 FFA: John Long, Richard Harrison & Rick Accomazzo, 1973
Page Views: 1,357 total · 9/month
Shared By: Chris Owen on Mar 4, 2006
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

Scrambling leads to a tree belay at the top of P1 of Gates of Delirium.

P1 Traverse right to ease to a bolt clip then very thin moves (exposed crux) to gain the bottom of the crack (nut/cam). The crack provides frantic trickiness of a different nature, past pitons to a ledge below the real Drain Pipe pitch.

P2 Laybacking and jamming with good pro, and in a wonderful position leads to a fitting finale: hand traverse right under Piasano Pinnacle, what a great pitch!

Location

Same descent as Valhalla etc.

Protection

1 Bolt, 2 pitons, nuts, cams.

Photos

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Chris Owen
Big Bear Lake
  5.11b
Chris Owen   Big Bear Lake  
  5.11b
I gave it *** because I really enjoyed the second pitch. Pitch one was average. Feb 6, 2010
Tradiban  
 
Gnar right off the deck. I couldn't pull it, aided on a micro cam. Looking at the thin crack I ventured right into what looked like better territory to gain the base of the wide crack, ie skipped the pitons. The wide crack was fun in an old school way, had just enough gear with a C4 #4 and #5 plus 2 #3's for the wide section. Traversed left at the end, spanned the gap to gain bolts on top of a block (Clockwork Orange 10d) to rap back down to ground and our packs. Apr 23, 2016