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Routes in Sunshine Face - Right Side

Arrowhead T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Bukatude T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Buttress Chimney T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Drain Pipe, The T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
First Pitch T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Gates of Delirium T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Golden Oldies T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Hesitation T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Hesitation Direct T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Iron Cross T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Ishi T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Last of the Mohicans T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Moondance T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
New Generation T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Nirvana T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Quiet Desperation T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Race With The Devil T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R
Red Rain T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Sidewinder T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Stretch, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Sundance T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Sundance Arete T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b R
Sundike T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Valhalla T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Voodoo Child T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Type: Trad, 300 ft, 3 pitches
FA: Rick Accomazzo, Gib Lewis, and Jim Wilson, 1976
Page Views: 956 total, 8/month
Shared By: Darrell Hensel on Jul 9, 2008 with updates
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Good mixed climbing. A very thin face crux combined with a unique feature on the second pitch, as well as a pitch of superb liebacking.

Pitch 1: Do the first pitch of the Iron Cross (11a).

Pitch 2: Clip the first bolt of the Iron Cross and then move left to follow the razor thin flake up and left. This flake is wild, a small rock dropped behind it will come out at the bottom of it, down by Red Rain. Although easy, the super thin nature of the flake makes it quite exciting. At the end of the flake climb past two bolts (11d) to the belay ledge.

Pitch 3: Follow the right facing flake to the top (10b). This is yet another of the truely classic pitches on the Sunshine Face.

Location

Starts at the same place as the Iron Cross.

Protection

Bolts, thin to 2".

Per dnaiscool:
P1= (2) .5 Camalot, #3-6 stopper, #3 Steelnut, #2 Alien...bolted Belay.

P2= 50 foot runout up wild, razor flake ("No Pro Show") Stand (careful now) one bolt, 4 bolts

The crux here felt really hard for 15 ft., more like .12 something...Just sayin'
and I'd make sure I was really calm before standing to clip that lone bolt at the top
of that razor flake...and unless someone added a bolt low here, the belay bolts on the
top of P1 are all you can clip before heading up that wild flake.

P3= Double set TCU #1-3 (3/8" to 1" pro) up a sweeeeet .10a Lb flake...Belay=loop tree

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