Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: Bob Gaines, Kelly Vaught, Frank Bentwood and Chip Maloney, July 2001
Page Views: 463 total · 4/month
Shared By: Bob Gaines on Jul 14, 2010
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

From the Ishi/Quiet Desperation belay move right, then climb up (11a) past 4 bolts, traversing right (crux, 11c) at the fourth bolt to a rest stance. A 5.10a move from here gets you to the 5th bolt. Follow a shallow, left facing corner (5.9) with a fixed pin (you can back up the pin with a #3 BD microstopper) then step right and join Iron Cross for its last 2 bolts (5.8).

Belay from a pine tree.

Location

This pitch climbs diagonally up and right on a beautiful, gold colored slab, starting from the bolted belay of Ishi/Quiet Desperation and finishing on Paisano Ledge.

It can also be accessed by rapping down from Paisano Ledge (build an anchor with 2 to 4 inch CDs directly under Paisano Overhang) which is also a tactic that can be used to climb Ishi's rarely climbed but stunning last pitch, which is a lieback reminiscent of Yosemite's Wheat Thin.

Protection

7 bolts, one fixed pin, one thin nut.

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