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Golden Oldies
5.11c YDS 6c+ French 24 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 24 ZA E4 6a British
Avg: 3 from 1
vote
Routes in Sunshine Face - Right Side
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Arrowhead T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Bukatude T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Bukatude Direct T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b PG13 |
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Buttress Chimney T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Drain Pipe, The T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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First Pitch T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Gates of Delirium T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Golden Oldies T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Hesitation T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Hesitation Direct T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Iron Cross T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Ishi T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Last of the Mohicans T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Moondance T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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My Generation TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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New Generation T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Nirvana T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Quiet Desperation T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Race With The Devil T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R |
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Red Rain T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Sidewinder T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Speaking in Tongues TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Still Savage T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Stretch, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Sundance T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Sundance Arete T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b R |
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Sundike T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Tempest, The TR 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a |
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Valhalla T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Valhallatude T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Voodoo Child T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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X Generation T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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You Flew Here, We Grew Here (Link-up) T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
| Type: | Trad, 100 ft (30 m) |
| GPS: | 33.76989, -116.69436 |
| FA: | Bob Gaines, Kelly Vaught, Frank Bentwood and Chip Maloney, July 2001 |
| Page Views: | 1,245 total · 7/month |
| Shared By: | Bob Gaines on Jul 14, 2010 |
| Admins: | C Miller, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
Description
From the Ishi/Quiet Desperation belay move right, then climb up (11a) past 4 bolts, traversing right (crux, 11c) at the fourth bolt to a rest stance. A 5.10a move from here gets you to the 5th bolt. Follow a shallow, left facing corner (5.9) with a fixed pin (you can back up the pin with a #3 BD microstopper) then step right and join Iron Cross for its last 2 bolts (5.8).
Belay from a pine tree.
Location
This pitch climbs diagonally up and right on a beautiful, gold colored slab, starting from the bolted belay of Ishi/Quiet Desperation and finishing on Paisano Ledge.
It can also be accessed by rapping down from Paisano Ledge (build an anchor with 2 to 4 inch CDs directly under Paisano Overhang) which is also a tactic that can be used to climb Ishi's rarely climbed but stunning last pitch, which is a lieback reminiscent of Yosemite's Wheat Thin.
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