Type: Trad, 160 ft
FA: Bob Gaines and John Long, August 1986
Page Views: 1,259 total · 8/month
Shared By: C Miller on Jan 20, 2006
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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A great climb which is a better and more direct start to Valhalla than that route's first pitch. When originally done it had only two bolts and traversed sharply left to a belay on Log Ledge; it has been re-engineered and now with four bolts is well protected. Rope drag can be a problem if only using short quickdraws - take some slings.

Start just right of Valhalla's first pitch and climb scoops up and slightly right past two bolts and then continue straight up past two more to join Valhalla at the first bolt (5.11a) on that route's second pitch. Higher, weave your way up past six more bolts to a bolted anchor. Continue above via Valhalla or rap 80' to Log Ledge and then make another rap (60') back to your packs.

  • Excellent if done as a single pitch or as an alternate start to Valhalla. The combination of smearing low on the route to edging higher up adds a nice touch to this fun route.


11 bolts, bolted anchor/rap


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Brandon R
Sacramento, CA
Brandon R   Sacramento, CA
This thing felt harder than the crux of Valhalla. Maybe better in cooler conditions? Nov 18, 2006
Adam Stackhouse

Adam Stackhouse    
This is an alternate start to Valhalla. Combined with P2 of Valhalla (sans the belay) this makes for one long pitch, making Valhalla itself into a two pitch climb. Nov 19, 2006
I agree with Brandon, the Nirvana start is harder and more sustained than the crux of Vahalla. May 11, 2008
glad other people think this waz ridikulas hard for 10c...11b? Sep 25, 2011
Jim Dover
Idyllwild, CA
Jim Dover   Idyllwild, CA
Led this today. Seems like harder than 11a and definitely harder than Valhalla's start and harder/thinner than the upper section. Note: if doing the full 160 pitch the rope drag and weight is SPOOKY getting the last few bolts. I really was glad it was only mid 10s because I thought it would pull me off. Still, great fun and a proud lead--even if I fell a few times (OK, fell a lot). Feb 5, 2013
San Diego, CA
DannyJ   San Diego, CA
Was getting shut down on this thing, even with avoiding crux on Valhalla by moving left onto the Sundance ledge. The first 4 bolts are close together, but the climbing is continuous, tense, and intricate. Very precise footwork needed. Try it on a cold day. Aug 28, 2017
A believe the consensus is that is harder than Valhalla, I agree. It's unrelenting micro edges and smears all the way into Valhalla. This is the type of slab climbing In hate. Aug 28, 2017
master gumby  
Greasing off this bad boi in the sun, after you clip the first bolt crimps are hard to come by and be prepared to smear fo yo life. Well protected after this thing was retro bolted ("shutters") - hard to believe this thing originally only had two bolts to link with Valhalla!

Does anyone know which two bolts they were? I was guessing 2 and 4, but holy smokes.... 1 day ago
Thomas Claiborne
Thomas Claiborne  
Sure, I'll bite. It's 11a.

Comparing this route to the moves on Valhalla is kind of dumb IMO -- the styles are totally different. Nirvana is a smearfest more akin to Arcy Farcy than Valhalla. Valhalla has harder more vertical cranking on positive incut holds. This route is also way more friction dependent than Valhalla because of those characteristics. Try it on a cold day; it'll feel different. 14 hours ago