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Nirvana
5.11a YDS 6c French 22 Ewbanks VII+ UIAA 22 ZA E3 5c British
Type: | Trad, 160 ft (48 m) |
FA: | Bob Gaines and John Long, August 1986 |
Page Views: | 2,260 total · 10/month |
Shared By: | C Miller on Jan 20, 2006 |
Admins: | C Miller, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Description
A great climb which is a better and more direct start to Valhalla than that route's first pitch. When originally done it had only two bolts and traversed sharply left to a belay on Log Ledge; it has been re-engineered and now with four bolts is well protected. Rope drag can be a problem if only using short quickdraws - take some slings.
Start just right of Valhalla's first pitch and climb scoops up and slightly right past two bolts and then continue straight up past two more to join Valhalla at the first bolt (5.11a) on that route's second pitch. Higher, weave your way up past six more bolts to a bolted anchor. Continue above via Valhalla or rap 80' to Log Ledge and then make another rap (60') back to your packs.
Start just right of Valhalla's first pitch and climb scoops up and slightly right past two bolts and then continue straight up past two more to join Valhalla at the first bolt (5.11a) on that route's second pitch. Higher, weave your way up past six more bolts to a bolted anchor. Continue above via Valhalla or rap 80' to Log Ledge and then make another rap (60') back to your packs.
- Excellent if done as a single pitch or as an alternate start to Valhalla. The combination of smearing low on the route to edging higher up adds a nice touch to this fun route.
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