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Routes in Sunshine Face - Right Side

Arrowhead T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Bukatude T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Buttress Chimney T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Drain Pipe, The T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
First Pitch T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Gates of Delirium T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Golden Oldies T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Hesitation T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Hesitation Direct T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Iron Cross T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Ishi T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Last of the Mohicans T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Moondance T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
New Generation T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Nirvana T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Quiet Desperation T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Race With The Devil T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R
Red Rain T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Sidewinder T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Stretch, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Sundance T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Sundance Arete T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b R
Sundike T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Valhalla T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Voodoo Child T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
You Flew Here, We Grew Here (Link-up) T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Order Wrong? Sort Routes
Type: Trad, 160 ft
FA: Bob Gaines and John Long, August 1986
Page Views: 1,189 total · 8/month
Shared By: C Miller on Jan 20, 2006
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description [Suggest Change]

A great climb which is a better and more direct start to Valhalla than that route's first pitch. When originally done it had only two bolts and traversed sharply left to a belay on Log Ledge; it has been re-engineered and now with four bolts is well protected. Rope drag can be a problem if only using short quickdraws - take some slings.

Start just right of Valhalla's first pitch and climb scoops up and slightly right past two bolts and then continue straight up past two more to join Valhalla at the first bolt (5.11a) on that route's second pitch. Higher, weave your way up past six more bolts to a bolted anchor. Continue above via Valhalla or rap 80' to Log Ledge and then make another rap (60') back to your packs.

  • Excellent if done as a single pitch or as an alternate start to Valhalla. The combination of smearing low on the route to edging higher up adds a nice touch to this fun route.

Protection [Suggest Change]

11 bolts, bolted anchor/rap

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Brandon R
Sacramento, CA
 
Brandon R   Sacramento, CA
 
This thing felt harder than the crux of Valhalla. Maybe better in cooler conditions? Nov 18, 2006
Adam Stackhouse

  5.11a
Adam Stackhouse    
  5.11a
This is an alternate start to Valhalla. Combined with P2 of Valhalla (sans the belay) this makes for one long pitch, making Valhalla itself into a two pitch climb. Nov 19, 2006
Murf
  5.11b
Murf  
  5.11b
I agree with Brandon, the Nirvana start is harder and more sustained than the crux of Vahalla. May 11, 2008
glad other people think this waz ridikulas hard for 10c...11b? Sep 25, 2011
Jim Dover
Idyllwild, CA
  5.11a
Jim Dover   Idyllwild, CA
  5.11a
Led this today. Seems like harder than 11a and definitely harder than Valhalla's start and harder/thinner than the upper section. Note: if doing the full 160 pitch the rope drag and weight is SPOOKY getting the last few bolts. I really was glad it was only mid 10s because I thought it would pull me off. Still, great fun and a proud lead--even if I fell a few times (OK, fell a lot). Feb 5, 2013
DannyJ
San Diego, CA
DannyJ   San Diego, CA
Was getting shut down on this thing, even with avoiding crux on Valhalla by moving left onto the Sundance ledge. The first 4 bolts are close together, but the climbing is continuous, tense, and intricate. Very precise footwork needed. Try it on a cold day. Aug 28, 2017
A believe the consensus is that is harder than Valhalla, I agree. It's unrelenting micro edges and smears all the way into Valhalla. This is the type of slab climbing In hate. Aug 28, 2017

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