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Routes in Sunshine Face - Right Side

Arrowhead T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Bukatude T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Buttress Chimney T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Drain Pipe, The T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
First Pitch T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Gates of Delirium T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Golden Oldies T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Hesitation T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Hesitation Direct T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Iron Cross T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Ishi T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Last of the Mohicans T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Moondance T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
New Generation T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Nirvana T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Quiet Desperation T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Race With The Devil T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R
Red Rain T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Sidewinder T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Stretch, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Sundance T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Sundance Arete T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b R
Sundike T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Valhalla T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Voodoo Child T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Type: Trad, 300 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Pat Callis, July, 1967.
Page Views: 2,224 total, 15/month
Shared By: Roger Linfield on Jan 24, 2006
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

This route gives an introduction to the steep, exposed climbing of the Sunshine Face, at an easier grade than the routes to its left. Climb the initial section of Buttress Chimney, then move up and left along a 5.7 ramp (often covered with pine needles) to belay bolts. The crux pitch follows thin face climbing on great rock, up and left, then back right, finishing at Paisano Ledge.

Protection

Bolts plus a light rack (include a few pieces to 3 inches for the belay at the top)

Photos

Tradiban
  5.10a
Tradiban  
  5.10a
Solid fun, well-bolted. Mar 12, 2014
Todd Cook
Hawthorne, CA
 
Todd Cook   Hawthorne, CA
 
There are several bolts on this climb, some you'll want short quickdraws, others, alpine draws with the sling extended to reduce rope drag via the zig zag line. There's also at least two chicken heads that can be slung. Note: you can't drop down the original route line even with a 70; 3 rappels to the left of the climb take you down to the base, southwest of where you started. Sep 8, 2012
Chris Owen
Big Bear Lake
  5.10a
Chris Owen   Big Bear Lake  
  5.10a
The opening moves of pitch one are the hardest moves on the climb! Jun 6, 2009
usetob
Visalia, Ca.
 
usetob   Visalia, Ca.
 
CLASSIC, repeated mannnny times for fun... May 2, 2008