Type: Trad, 300 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Pat Callis, July, 1967.
Page Views: 2,548 total · 16/month
Shared By: Roger Linfield on Jan 24, 2006
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route

33 Opinions

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This route gives an introduction to the steep, exposed climbing of the Sunshine Face, at an easier grade than the routes to its left. Climb the initial section of Buttress Chimney, then move up and left along a 5.7 ramp (often covered with pine needles) to belay bolts. The crux pitch follows thin face climbing on great rock, up and left, then back right, finishing at Paisano Ledge.


Bolts plus a light rack (include a few pieces to 3 inches for the belay at the top)


Visalia, Ca.
usetob   Visalia, Ca.
CLASSIC, repeated mannnny times for fun... May 2, 2008
Chris Owen
Big Bear Lake
Chris Owen   Big Bear Lake  
The opening moves of pitch one are the hardest moves on the climb! Jun 6, 2009
Todd Cook
Hawthorne, CA
Todd Cook   Hawthorne, CA
There are several bolts on this climb, some you'll want short quickdraws, others, alpine draws with the sling extended to reduce rope drag via the zig zag line. There's also at least two chicken heads that can be slung. Note: you can't drop down the original route line even with a 70; 3 rappels to the left of the climb take you down to the base, southwest of where you started. Sep 8, 2012
Solid fun, well-bolted. Mar 12, 2014
DG Henkel
Idyllwild, Ca
DG Henkel   Idyllwild, Ca
This thing felt more like 10d slab to me and seemed like it could use an R rating for the runout thumb press hand foot match mantling well above your last bolt. Anyone wanting a bail biner should go try it. Nov 5, 2018
DG, sounds like you wandered into the last pitch of Sundance maybe. Nov 5, 2018