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Routes in Sunshine Face - Right Side

Arrowhead T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Bukatude T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Buttress Chimney T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Drain Pipe, The T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
First Pitch T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Gates of Delirium T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Golden Oldies T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Hesitation T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Hesitation Direct T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Iron Cross T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Ishi T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Last of the Mohicans T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Moondance T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
New Generation T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Nirvana T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Quiet Desperation T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Race With The Devil T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R
Red Rain T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Sidewinder T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Stretch, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Sundance T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Sundance Arete T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b R
Sundike T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Valhalla T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Voodoo Child T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Type: Trad, 230 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Charlie Raymond, Pat Callis. FFA P1 Gib Lewis, Tobin Sorenson. P2 John Long, Richard Harrison.
Page Views: 3,902 total, 27/month
Shared By: Chris Owen on Mar 4, 2006 with updates
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

Traverse right on a ledge to get onto a pinnacle. P1 The thin crack is taxing, but does take nuts and thin cams, the crux involves technical and slightly desperate moves. P2 Your mates' big lead. Up a shallow ramp to the meat of P2. Thin face leads to an apparent impasse, but a sly move left (the Iron Cross) bypasses this to lead to a shallow ramp with pins, more face leads to the top. A long a worrying pitch, but brilliant (when you've done it).

Location

Descent as for Valhalla.

Protection

Nuts, thin cams, bolts, pins.

Per dnaiscool:
P1= #3-6 Stopper,(2) #.5 Camalot, fixed pin (?), #3 Steelnut*, #2 Alien
Crux move pro...crux here feels like 5.11a++ when you are fiddling
with gear...it's pumpy, but the nut & cam are bomber.

P2= Stoppers (#3-8...bring a set), 4 bolts to crux, two fixed pins (?), #2 Steelnut,
then four more bolts to top...Extend second to last bolt w/dbl runner

In '92 when I led this pitch the last bolt was 1/2 pulled out, so I
Looped a wire cable from a small stopper over it to tie it off

Top Belay= I used a #1.5 & #2 Tricam

Photos

I split P2 into two pitches, glad I did because it ain't over till it's over. P2 is way fun. Apr 2, 2017
One pin on P1, it's good, I whipped on it. I also got a solid #000 C3 just above the pin. Technical is right! Oct 4, 2016
ChugachMan  
 
Again, no pitons on P1 as of 9.18.2010. Definitely need some pretty good small gear to protect P1. Fantastic climbing on P1, and especially P2, but a fall on P1 could have bad results as gear is tricky to place. Sep 20, 2010
Jon Clark
Philadelphia, PA
Jon Clark   Philadelphia, PA
No fixed pins on p1 as of 6/13/10 Jun 28, 2010
Mar' Himmerich
Santa Fe, NM
Mar' Himmerich   Santa Fe, NM
I popped off the crux for a second and realized that the name of the route is PERFECT! Aug 26, 2008
C Miller   CA  
Fixed pins are usually in place, but they seem to come and go. Modern gear protects in lieu of the pins but take some effort to get in - which is why the pins are there - or not. The same thing happens over at Tahquitz on the Green Arch. May 5, 2008
tony grice
  5.11a
tony grice  
  5.11a
Are there supost to be pins on the first pitch? There were none as of 5/3/08.Did the pin gobblin eat them? May 5, 2008
Bruce Diffenbaugh
Cheyenne,Wyoming
  5.11a
Bruce Diffenbaugh   Cheyenne,Wyoming
  5.11a
One the most technical 5.11 climbs on this wall.A real test. Feb 5, 2008