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Routes in Sunshine Face - Right Side

Bukatude T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Buttress Chimney T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Drain Pipe, The T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
First Pitch T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Gates of Delirium T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Golden Oldies T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Hesitation T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Hesitation Direct T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Iron Cross T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Ishi T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Last of the Mohicans T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Moondance T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
New Generation T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Nirvana T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Quiet Desperation T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Race With The Devil T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R
Red Rain T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Sidewinder T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Stretch, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Sundance T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Sundance Arete T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b R
Sundike T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Valhalla T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Voodoo Child T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Type: Trad, 250 ft, 3 pitches
FA: Tony Yaniro and Richard Leversee, 1976
Page Views: 708 total, 6/month
Shared By: Darrell Hensel on Jul 9, 2008
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

The first pitch is the meat of this route, and is quite popular. The second pitch is not as good and is seldom done.

Pitch 1: Hard face climbing leads past 4 bolts (11c past the first 2) and ends on the Drain Pipe ledge at a tree. On the first ascent of this pitch, Tony pulled so hard on holds that he was bleeding under his fingernails.

Pitch 2: Climb straight off the ledge to gain a left facing corner. Follow the corner (10c) past one bolt and gear placements. From the top of the corner it is possible to move left to the Euphoria flakes, or continue up and right past another bolt to a belay.

Pitch 3: Follow cracks up to the base of Paisano Pinnacle.

Location

Far left side of the Sunshine Face proper.

Protection

Thin to 2.5".

Photos

Did the second pitch today, good moves but it's a little flaky and the bolts are junk. There's two extra drilling stances where new bolts would go nicely. So with four new bolts this would be a good pitch and could be considered separate as it's easily accessible on the ledge. I went right to a nice ledge belay and then up a nice 5.8 layback crack. Nov 11, 2017
Personally I've never felt that this route was all that great either, certainly not a favorite of mine. A reasonably hard first pitch of so-so (I guess mediocre) climbing with a somewhat obscure and uninspiring second pitch. The route does have a little historical significance as Tony got his start with it at a young age.

I don't remember some of the questioned details very well through the mists of time, if I ever did know for sure (i.e., was it TD or GU on the first pitch, first bolt.) KP and I were at the crag the day he did it and talked to him afterwards. KP might remember details better than me.

One thing I do know though is that, like many Suicide routes, the first pitch has definitely changed over time with holds breaking, etc. That is a fact I'm positive of, even if I don't recall explicitly if the stance was one of those holds.

Race With the Devil is similar in that it also has an interesting first bolt that would have been hard to drill on lead. I guess the Race bolt is a little different because I'm sure there never was a "better" stance option that changed over time (I did an immediate SA of Race and remember thinking that drilling there would have been fairly brutal in EBs.) I mention Race because if he did drill that GU he could possibly have drilled the Gates bolt GU as well. In those days GU was definitely the only "accepted" style (goes without saying) and no one would have wanted to admit to a TD "transgression", so, who knows.

OK, that was a long winded way of saying I don't remember, and hence won't make any assertive claims about TD vs GU drilling (on either route), and that the routes have also indeed changed over time.

Agreed that Gates is way down on the list of Suicide classics, if it even belongs there at all. But it does kind of have some historical significance.

Edit - OK Alex, I went and checked the Race page after posting this instead of before posting, which I should have done. You've obviously done Race since we sort of discussed that bolt as well. Yeah, who knows. Both of those bolts seem kind of questionable I guess. Jul 5, 2017
Unfortunately a mediocre pitch. The moves past the third bolt are really cool, too bad the rest isn't as good. The climbing past the first bolt makes zero sense to me. Did Yaniro place that bolt on rappel? There's no stance for it. The only natural stance is about a foot-plus lower. Did lots of holds break? Felt contrived compared to the upper bits plus those bolts have logical drilling stances. Jul 4, 2017
Anyone who leads this route needs to think of the fact that Tony Yaniro was only 14 years old when he led the FA...Fourteen!!!! Tony was always way ahead of his time, and his routes do not get downgraded. Aug 19, 2014
john strand
southern colo
 
john strand   southern colo
 
I bled under my nails on this one too! Only on two though- must have had stickier shoes than Tony ! Jul 12, 2008