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Gates of Delirium

Name: Gates of Delirium
Rating: 1.9

5.11c YDS 6c+ French 24 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 24 ZA E4 6a British

Routes in Sunshine Face - Right Side

L › R R › L A › Z

	Arrowhead T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Bukatude T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
	Bukatude Direct T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b PG13
	Buttress Chimney T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Drain Pipe, The T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	First Pitch T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Gates of Delirium T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	Golden Oldies T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	Hesitation T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Hesitation Direct T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	Iron Cross T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Ishi T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
	Last of the Mohicans T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Moondance T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	My Generation TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	New Generation T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	Nirvana T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Quiet Desperation T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
	Race With The Devil T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R
	Red Rain T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Sidewinder T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Speaking in Tongues TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
	Still Savage T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Stretch, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Sundance T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Sundance Arete T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b R
	Sundike T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Tempest, The TR 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
	Valhalla T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Voodoo Child T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	X Generation T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	You Flew Here, We Grew Here (Link-up) T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

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Type:	Trad, 250 ft (76 m), 3 pitches
FA:	Tony Yaniro and Richard Leversee, 1976
Page Views:	1,370 total · 8/month
Shared By:	Darrell Hensel on Jul 9, 2008
Admins:	C Miller, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes Page Updates (admin only)

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Description

The first pitch is the meat of this route, and is quite popular. The second pitch is not as good and is seldom done.

Pitch 1: Hard face climbing leads past 4 bolts (11c past the first 2) and ends on the Drain Pipe ledge at a tree. On the first ascent of this pitch, Tony pulled so hard on holds that he was bleeding under his fingernails.

Pitch 2: Climb straight off the ledge to gain a left facing corner. Follow the corner (10c) past one bolt and gear placements. From the top of the corner it is possible to move left to the Euphoria flakes, or continue up and right past another bolt to a belay.

Pitch 3: Follow cracks up to the base of Paisano Pinnacle.