Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 729 total · 5/month
Shared By: Roger Linfield on Jan 23, 2006
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


9 Opinions

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Description

This will give you some chimney practice. A short, secure squeeze chimney (crux) leads to a long, wide, enjoyable chimney section above.

Protection

standard rack, including some larger pieces

Photos

- No Photos -
Ryan Strickland
Idyllwild, CA
Ryan Strickland   Idyllwild, CA
The first 20 feet of this route put you on Insomnia or give you access to Hesitation. You could do the bottom as a squeeze, but it's easier and faster to stem the corner. You could try to place an offset brass to protect the moves, but it'll probably fall out when you climb past it. Better to just not mess up the moves and have a large, soft belayer to land on if you do slip. Apr 28, 2016
Andrea Campanella
Idyllwild
 
Andrea Campanella   Idyllwild
 
Climbed it today. The crux at the start is not bad once you figure out the right way to do it. It can be protected with a BD #4. There are some loose rocks and some not very safe (in my opinion) bigger blocks. It requires some attention. The exit was more of a nightmare for me because I tried to squeeze through it. Maybe taking it more on the outside can be better? Definitely not worth the effort. I had a much better time later on Insomnia! Apr 30, 2018