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Routes in Sunshine Face - Right Side

Arrowhead T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Bukatude T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Buttress Chimney T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Drain Pipe, The T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
First Pitch T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Gates of Delirium T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Golden Oldies T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Hesitation T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Hesitation Direct T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Iron Cross T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Ishi T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Last of the Mohicans T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Moondance T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
New Generation T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Nirvana T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Quiet Desperation T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Race With The Devil T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R
Red Rain T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Sidewinder T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Stretch, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Sundance T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Sundance Arete T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b R
Sundike T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Valhalla T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Voodoo Child T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
You Flew Here, We Grew Here (Link-up) T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
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Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 716 total · 5/month
Shared By: Roger Linfield on Jan 23, 2006
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

This will give you some chimney practice. A short, secure squeeze chimney (crux) leads to a long, wide, enjoyable chimney section above.

Protection

standard rack, including some larger pieces

Photos

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Ryan Strickland
Idyllwild, CA
Ryan Strickland   Idyllwild, CA
The first 20 feet of this route put you on Insomnia or give you access to Hesitation. You could do the bottom as a squeeze, but it's easier and faster to stem the corner. You could try to place an offset brass to protect the moves, but it'll probably fall out when you climb past it. Better to just not mess up the moves and have a large, soft belayer to land on if you do slip. Apr 28, 2016
Andrea Campanella
Idyllwild
 
Andrea Campanella   Idyllwild
 
Climbed it today. The crux at the start is not bad once you figure out the right way to do it. It can be protected with a BD #4. There are some loose rocks and some not very safe (in my opinion) bigger blocks. It requires some attention. The exit was more of a nightmare for me because I tried to squeeze through it. Maybe taking it more on the outside can be better? Definitely not worth the effort. I had a much better time later on Insomnia! Apr 30, 2018

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