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Areas in Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks

Others, The 32 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 28 / 32
Suicide Rock 255 / 7 / 11 / 0 / 0 / 4 / 0 / 0 / 271
Tahquitz Rock 175 / 2 / 5 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 178
Elevation: 6,500 ft
GPS: 33.761, -116.679 Google Map · Climbing Map
Page Views: 669,365 total, 4,621/month
Shared By: C Miller on Jan 19, 2006 with updates
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

Description

Tahquitz and Suicide Rocks are the premiere multi-pitch traditional crags in Southern California and offer numerous climbs of all levels from one to seven pitches in length.

The rock at both Tahquitz and Suicide is a high-quality granite that varies from smooth and nearly featureless in spots to rough and grainy in others with most of it being somewhere in the middle and quite excellent. Loose rock is generally rare at Suicide Rock but the north side of Tahquitz is notorious for loose rock.

The season typically runs from mid to late spring through mid to late fall although with a mild winter the season can be extended in either direction. Suicide Rock with it's lower elevation tends to be free of snow earlier in the spring and be hotter in the summer.

Please note these are traditional crags and although sport routes do exist at both rocks they are the exception. It's important to keep in mind that even fully bolted routes requiring nothing more than quickdraws tend to be runout and somewhat serious leads.

Getting There

From LA or Palm springs via Interstate 10 take Highway 243 from the town of Banning 24 miles south to the town of Idyllwild. After a stop sign (your first since leaving Banning) make a left onto North Circle Drive, the second left, and follow it to another stop sign. Make a right and then your first left onto Fern Valley Drive and follow the signs to Humber Park.

From the San Diego via Interstate 215 take Highway 74 to the town of Hemet, from which it's 14 miles to the small town of Mountain Center and the junction with Highway 243. Drive 5 miles to the town of Idyllwild and make a right onto North Circle Drive (just past The Fort) and follow it to a stop sign. Make a right and then your first left onto Fern Valley Drive and follow the signs to Humber Park.

Weather Webcams

http://www.climbidy.com/

http://www.idyllwildcalifornia.com/idycam.htm

Weather

Guidebook

Rock Climbing Tahquitz and Suicide Rocks (3rd edition) by Randy Vogel and Bob Gaines is the most current/up-to-date guide available to the area.

Adventure Pass

An Adventure Pass is required to legally park at Humber Park.

481 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
White Maiden's Walkaway
Trad 6 pitches
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Left Ski Track
Trad 3 pitches
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Fingertrip
Trad 4 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
The Long Climb
Trad 6 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Traitor Horn
Trad 4 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Coffin Nail
Trad 2 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Flower of High Rank
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Open Book
Trad 3 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Whodunit
Trad 8 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Dave's Deviation
Trad 3 pitches
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
El Camino Real
Trad 4 pitches
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Sundance
Trad 3 pitches
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Johnny Quest
Trad 2 pitches
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Super Pooper
Trad 4 pitches
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
The Vampire
Trad 4 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
White Maiden's Walkaway Tahquitz Rock > (e) Maiden Buttress 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c Trad 6 pitches
Left Ski Track Tahquitz Rock > (i) S Face > S Face - Left Side 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad 3 pitches
Fingertrip Tahquitz Rock > (g) W Face > W Face - Right Side 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad 4 pitches
The Long Climb Tahquitz Rock > (d) Northwest Recess 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 6 pitches
Traitor Horn Tahquitz Rock > (g) W Face > W Face - Right Side 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 4 pitches
Coffin Nail Tahquitz Rock > (g) W Face > W Face - Right Side 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 2 pitches
Flower of High Rank Suicide Rock > (u) Northeast Buttress 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Open Book Tahquitz Rock > (h) Open Book Area 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad 3 pitches
Whodunit Tahquitz Rock > (d) Northwest Recess 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad 8 pitches
Dave's Deviation Tahquitz Rock > (g) W Face > W Face - Left Side 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad 3 pitches
El Camino Real Tahquitz Rock > (g) W Face > W Face - Right Side 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad 4 pitches
Sundance Suicide Rock > (k) Sunshine Face > Sunshine Face - Right Side 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad 3 pitches
Johnny Quest Suicide Rock > (u) Northeast Buttress 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad 2 pitches
Super Pooper Tahquitz Rock > (f) W Face Bulge… > Upper Bulge Routes 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad 4 pitches
The Vampire Tahquitz Rock > (f) W Face Bulge… > Upper Bulge Routes 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad 4 pitches
More Classic Climbs in Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks »

Weather Averages

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Prime Climbing Season
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Photos

Found abandoned haulbag at suicide trailhead today.
Describe contents to crew at Nomad Ventures to retrieve.

9516594853 Jul 30, 2017
If anyone found a red Patagonia backpack with an orange headlamp and 4 hexes inside please contact me. Will gladly pay for shipping and convenience. Jun 27, 2017
S. Lucas   CA
Among the abundance of garbage we've packed out so far this season, highlights include:
- A plastic water bottle crammed into a crack half way up Whodunit (not dropped, deliberately placed)
- A used/discarded maxi-pad on the friction descent.
- Wrappers from almost every flavor of Cliffbar except the pumpkin spice

Seriously, for those folks not familiar with Leave No Trace: do your homework and start being a decent human being. Leaving garbage and debris is childish, lazy, slob behavior. If that's your MO, take it somewhere else other than our beloved crags.

There is literally NO excuse for not packing out your garbage.

End of rant.
Climb safe~ Jun 26, 2017
I placed some webcams to check out the weather or shade conditions. Check out climbidy.com I also added a link to a bolt replacement database. Jul 18, 2016
x15x15  
Guess I was one of those repeat offenders. I have tossed plenty of those warnings over the years, and one time I received a notice to appear. I fought the law, but the law won...

The Humber Park fees are a joke. A couple picnic tables, a couple stupid info-boards, striped parking lanes, and a shitter that's not cleaned often enough is going to justify a parking pass, according to the courts. Jul 15, 2016
other
San Diego, CA
other   San Diego, CA
Ive never bought an "adventure" pass anywhere since they began 10+ years ago. Ive never got a ticket. My understanding is that the ticket is really a warning and action is only taken on repeat ticket getters. Also I've read that a judge has ruled they are illegal and/or unenforceable. Anyone get a ticket and where? Jul 15, 2016
I've seen cars parked at humber park with anti adventure pass bumper stickers and have never seen any of them get ticketed. Don't waste your money Jan 22, 2016
Rich and Ben
Temecula, CA
Rich and Ben   Temecula, CA
I was there today and saw a sign that states an Adventure Pass is required. So I would be safe and get an Adventure Pass Nov 13, 2015
Never had a "pass" to park in the parking lot. Not sure what one would expect by calling a person who's livelihood depends on the revenue generated from stating that a pass is necessary.... Oct 9, 2015
C Miller   CA  
A quick phone call to the San Bernardino National Forest Headquarters in San Bernardino (the Idyllwild Ranger Station apparently has better things to do than answer the phone) confirmed that yes indeed an Adventure Pass is required to park in Humber Park.

The web-link to areas requiring Adventure Passes is currently under construction so alas no link to post. Oct 9, 2015
Can one of the Administrators of this page provide a link to where they found information that confirms that Adventure Passes are no longer needed at Humber Park?

It is my understanding that Humber Park and Lake Fulmor are the only places where these passes are still required. It would be appreciated if there is a link to an official USFS page that states what their policy is.

Thank you. Oct 9, 2015
Rich zz
california
Rich zz   california
can you walk off routes for tahquitz (fingertrips particularly) or are they 2 rope rappel? Jun 23, 2015
Bart Young
Jackson, WY
Bart Young   Jackson, WY
Yesterday I arrived with a friend to to Idyllwild. We went to the south ridge, met a couple who were camping in their van at a HUGE campsite. After chatting with them for a minute they invited us to share the HUGE campsite with them. Today, after an enjoyable rest day in Idyllwild, a FS Service stops at the site and asks my friend who he is with (I was away hiking). He responds that he is camping/climbing with a friend. The officer informs him that the sites are intended for "one party only" and that the people in the van were there first, we must leave. Despite the couple in the van telling her (the officer) that we were fine to camp with them, she insisted we just be out by 10am tomorrow morning. What the hell? I've never heard of anything like this! You aren't allowed to share you're campsite with who you see fit on a NATIONAL FOREST?!! Is this legal? Mar 27, 2015
Bart Young
Jackson, WY
Bart Young   Jackson, WY
I am hoping to be in Tahquitz around March 23. Me and a friend would like to spend a couple of weeks climbing in the area and have never been before. Is spending a couple of weeks at Tahquitz feasible? Is camping on the south ridge, then driving to Humber Park everyday and hiking going to be a pain in the ass? Any tips would be helpful. Mar 14, 2015
Jan Tarculas
Riverside, Ca
Jan Tarculas   Riverside, Ca
@Kevin No...People's been climbing there for over a year now Jun 20, 2014
runout  
Is this area still closed from the fire? Jun 17, 2014
Ball
Oakridge, OR
Ball   Oakridge, OR
If anyone found a custom, rusty-looking, long nut tool, please contact me. Last seen at NW Buttress, suicide rock. Made it myself; kinda like it. Thanks! Apr 29, 2014
Jim Dover
Idyllwild, CA
Jim Dover   Idyllwild, CA


Someone stole a deer from in front of La Casita restaurant in Idyllwild a few weeks ago. This particular deer has climbers painted on it and is part of a town-wide display of deer painted by local artists. If you see "Rocky" at a friend's house.... Turn the dirtbag in. Feb 20, 2014
Daren  
Stopped by a ranger station today (aug 6/13) and ranger said the whole area is closed.. I asked if it was all burned and she said no but there is still hotspots(?) and damaged areas around there so they closed all the trails. Apparently tahquitz isn't even damaged its just been closed due to the surrounding areas being damaged.
I decided to have a look for myself and go up to the parking area and that's closed off with construction taking place all around.. Nobody would give me details as to when it's going to open the ranger said to call every week for and update she wouldn't tell me anything, days, weeks, or months..

Goodluck! Aug 6, 2013
Has anyone climbed up here since the mountain fire? the forest service has issued this information:

Due to the Mountain Fire camping permits will not be issued until further notice and the entire trail system in Mount San Jacinto State Park and Wilderness is closed.

I figure that this would stop the climbing as well but can anyone confirm or deny. Jul 31, 2013
C Miller   CA  
Some recent threads on camping in the Idyllwild area -

mountainproject.com/v/seclu…

mountainproject.com/v/where…

mountainproject.com/v/overn… Aug 26, 2011
Eric T.
St. Augustine, Florida
Eric T.   St. Augustine, Florida
Anyone have beta on free camping near Idyllwild? Aug 25, 2011
For those sport climbers who feel a need to bag on Tahquitz, learn your history. The YDS was created here, so odds are if you think you need to add a couple of grades here the areas you usually climb are underrated.

Tahquitz has some truly historic routes, including the first 5.9 in the country. Yes, it's not sport climbing. No kidding! What it is is some of the best, most accessible trad climbing in the world. Super clean rock and great weather. Jul 5, 2011
William Nelson
Cave Creek, AZ
William Nelson   Cave Creek, AZ
Is is to cold for Tahquitz? I'm planning on a trip this weekend, April 2. I've been to Tahquitz few times last summer and thought it might still be cold, wet, snow(?) at higher elevation.

If I don't go to idyllwild, I'm heading to Joshua. Any suggestions for areas (routes) at Joshua for easy 5.5-5.7 routes where I won't have to give my name to maitre d (wait in line).


Thanks Mar 31, 2011
i am sport climber. area sucks. old style climbing. huge runouts. add a grade on every route. i can sport lead 11b. i was climbing 9s here. lilly rock may be good for trad but suicide sucks. go to holcomb north of big bear for best local sport. good camping and hiking though Mar 27, 2011
squiddo Marc
Mountain View, CA
squiddo Marc   Mountain View, CA
Hey Guys-

is this really the "latest" guide available:


Rock Climbing Tahquitz and Suicide Rocks, 3rd Edition

Seems like its from 2001....anyone know if anything is in the works like, oh I don't know a 4th edition perhaps?

hanks! Sep 4, 2010
Hello,
Can anyone pipe in on the rules/general guidelines for dogs at Suicide/Tahquitz? I prefer not to bring my dog, but could not find a sitter, so...
Thanks Sep 3, 2010
Beta for climbing in a party of three.

youtube.com/watch?v=XvJK5Iu…

1930s film featured climbing in Tahquitz. Jul 23, 2010
Steve W Smith
Groveland, CA
Steve W Smith   Groveland, CA
Just spent 4 great days at Idyllwild climbing Tahquitz. Prepare to spend $20 per night at Idyllwild County Campground. $25 for the other campground. It has pay showers (50 cents for 3 minutes). If you can, bring your own firewood!!! It's $7.00 for one round split in quarters!
The general store opens at 5:30am. Great place to get a hot breakfast and watch the world cup as you plan your day. They bake fresh bread daily and I highly recommend getting your sandwich for lunch on the summit here! I had the best Italian sub of my life! I'll attach pics of the menu so you have a good idea.
If you plan to shop for groceries though, go down the street to the village grocery store. The prices are much lower! Much lower.
The guys at Nomad, the local climbing shop, are very helpful with any gear, but especially with local beta.
Lastly, there is rough camping in 2 locations near the town, but we found it pretty dusty ground, not great shade, and opted to pay for camping. Your opinion may vary. Daytime temps in June were 75 and nights were 50-55 degrees. Perfect!! Jul 1, 2010

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