Elevation: 6,500 ft
GPS: 33.761, -116.679 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 879,364 total · 5,597/month
Shared By: C Miller on Jan 19, 2006 with updates from Sam Cannon and 1 other
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes
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Description

Tahquitz and Suicide Rocks are the premiere multi-pitch traditional crags in Southern California and offer numerous climbs of all levels from one to seven pitches in length.

The rock at both Tahquitz and Suicide is a high-quality granite that varies from smooth and nearly featureless in spots to rough and grainy in others with most of it being somewhere in the middle and quite excellent. Loose rock is generally rare at Suicide Rock but the north side of Tahquitz is notorious for loose rock.

The season typically runs from mid to late spring through mid to late fall although with a mild winter the season can be extended in either direction. Suicide Rock with it's lower elevation tends to be free of snow earlier in the spring and be hotter in the summer.

Please note these are traditional crags and although sport routes do exist at both rocks they are the exception. It's important to keep in mind that even fully bolted routes requiring nothing more than quickdraws tend to be runout and somewhat serious leads.

Getting There

From LA or Palm springs via Interstate 10 take Highway 243 from the town of Banning 24 miles south to the town of Idyllwild. After a stop sign (your first since leaving Banning) make a left onto North Circle Drive, the second left, and follow it to another stop sign. Make a right and then your first left onto Fern Valley Drive and follow the signs to Humber Park.

From the San Diego via Interstate 215 take Highway 74 to the town of Hemet, from which it's 14 miles to the small town of Mountain Center and the junction with Highway 243. Drive 5 miles to the town of Idyllwild and make a right onto North Circle Drive (just past The Fort) and follow it to a stop sign. Make a right and then your first left onto Fern Valley Drive and follow the signs to Humber Park.

Weather

Guidebook

Rock Climbing Tahquitz and Suicide Rocks (3rd edition) by Randy Vogel and Bob Gaines is the most current/up-to-date guide available to the area.

Adventure Pass

An Adventure Pass is required to legally park at Humber Park.

556 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
 238
White Maiden's Walkway
Trad 6 pitches
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 435
Fingertrip
Trad 4 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 227
The Long Climb
Trad 6 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 305
Traitor Horn
Trad 4 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 230
Coffin Nail
Trad 2 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 312
Flower of High Rank
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 364
Open Book
Trad 3 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 322
Whodunit
Trad 8 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 194
Dave's Deviation
Trad 3 pitches
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 207
El Camino Real
Trad 4 pitches
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 99
Sundance
Trad 3 pitches
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 143
Super Pooper
Trad 4 pitches
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 90
Etude
Trad
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 152
The Vampire
Trad 4 pitches
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
 65
Insomnia
Trad
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
White Maiden's Walkway Tahquitz Rock > (e) Maiden Buttress
 238
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c Trad 6 pitches
Fingertrip Tahquitz Rock > (g) W Face > W Face - Right Side
 435
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad 4 pitches
The Long Climb Tahquitz Rock > (d) Northwest Recess
 227
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 6 pitches
Traitor Horn Tahquitz Rock > (g) W Face > W Face - Right Side
 305
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 4 pitches
Coffin Nail Tahquitz Rock > (g) W Face > W Face - Right Side
 230
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 2 pitches
Flower of High Rank Suicide Rock > (u) Northeast Buttress
 312
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Open Book Tahquitz Rock > (h) Open Book Area
 364
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad 3 pitches
Whodunit Tahquitz Rock > (d) Northwest Recess
 322
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad 8 pitches
Dave's Deviation Tahquitz Rock > (g) W Face > W Face - Left Side
 194
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad 3 pitches
El Camino Real Tahquitz Rock > (g) W Face > W Face - Right Side
 207
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad 4 pitches
Sundance Suicide Rock > (k) Sunshine Face > Sunshine Face - Right…
 99
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad 3 pitches
Super Pooper Tahquitz Rock > (f) W Face Bulg… > Upper Bulge Routes
 143
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad 4 pitches
Etude Suicide Rock > (u) Northeast Buttress
 90
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad
The Vampire Tahquitz Rock > (f) W Face Bulg… > Upper Bulge Routes
 152
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad 4 pitches
Insomnia Suicide Rock > (l) Buttress of… > Buttress of Cracks -…
 65
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Trad
More Classic Climbs in Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks »

Weather Averages

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Prime Climbing Season
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Photos

Steve W Smith
Groveland, CA
Steve W Smith   Groveland, CA
Just spent 4 great days at Idyllwild climbing Tahquitz. Prepare to spend $20 per night at Idyllwild County Campground. $25 for the other campground. It has pay showers (50 cents for 3 minutes). If you can, bring your own firewood!!! It's $7.00 for one round split in quarters!
The general store opens at 5:30am. Great place to get a hot breakfast and watch the world cup as you plan your day. They bake fresh bread daily and I highly recommend getting your sandwich for lunch on the summit here! I had the best Italian sub of my life! I'll attach pics of the menu so you have a good idea.
If you plan to shop for groceries though, go down the street to the village grocery store. The prices are much lower! Much lower.
The guys at Nomad, the local climbing shop, are very helpful with any gear, but especially with local beta.
Lastly, there is rough camping in 2 locations near the town, but we found it pretty dusty ground, not great shade, and opted to pay for camping. Your opinion may vary. Daytime temps in June were 75 and nights were 50-55 degrees. Perfect!! Jul 1, 2010
Beta for climbing in a party of three.

youtube.com/watch?v=XvJK5Iu…

1930s film featured climbing in Tahquitz. Jul 23, 2010
For those sport climbers who feel a need to bag on Tahquitz, learn your history. The YDS was created here, so odds are if you think you need to add a couple of grades here the areas you usually climb are underrated.

Tahquitz has some truly historic routes, including the first 5.9 in the country. Yes, it's not sport climbing. No kidding! What it is is some of the best, most accessible trad climbing in the world. Super clean rock and great weather. Jul 5, 2011
Eric T.
St. Augustine, Florida
Eric T.   St. Augustine, Florida
Anyone have beta on free camping near Idyllwild? Aug 25, 2011
C Miller   CA  
Some recent threads on camping in the Idyllwild area -

mountainproject.com/v/seclu…

mountainproject.com/v/where…

mountainproject.com/v/overn… Aug 26, 2011
Can one of the Administrators of this page provide a link to where they found information that confirms that Adventure Passes are no longer needed at Humber Park?

It is my understanding that Humber Park and Lake Fulmor are the only places where these passes are still required. It would be appreciated if there is a link to an official USFS page that states what their policy is.

Thank you. Oct 9, 2015
C Miller   CA  
A quick phone call to the San Bernardino National Forest Headquarters in San Bernardino (the Idyllwild Ranger Station apparently has better things to do than answer the phone) confirmed that yes indeed an Adventure Pass is required to park in Humber Park.

The web-link to areas requiring Adventure Passes is currently under construction so alas no link to post. Oct 9, 2015
Never had a "pass" to park in the parking lot. Not sure what one would expect by calling a person who's livelihood depends on the revenue generated from stating that a pass is necessary.... Oct 9, 2015
Rich and Ben
Temecula, CA
Rich and Ben   Temecula, CA
I was there today and saw a sign that states an Adventure Pass is required. So I would be safe and get an Adventure Pass Nov 13, 2015
I've seen cars parked at humber park with anti adventure pass bumper stickers and have never seen any of them get ticketed. Don't waste your money Jan 22, 2016
other
San Diego, CA
other   San Diego, CA
Ive never bought an "adventure" pass anywhere since they began 10+ years ago. Ive never got a ticket. My understanding is that the ticket is really a warning and action is only taken on repeat ticket getters. Also I've read that a judge has ruled they are illegal and/or unenforceable. Anyone get a ticket and where? Jul 15, 2016
x15x15  
Guess I was one of those repeat offenders. I have tossed plenty of those warnings over the years, and one time I received a notice to appear. I fought the law, but the law won...

The Humber Park fees are a joke. A couple picnic tables, a couple stupid info-boards, striped parking lanes, and a shitter that's not cleaned often enough is going to justify a parking pass, according to the courts. Jul 15, 2016
I placed some webcams to check out the weather or shade conditions. Check outclimbidy.com I also added a link to a bolt replacement database. Jul 18, 2016
M Hostetler
Oakland, CA
M Hostetler   Oakland, CA
For rest day swimming skip Lake Hemet and head down to Lake Perris Reservoir. Aug 20, 2018