Elevation: 6,500 ft
GPS: 33.761, -116.679 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 1,322,091 total · 7,469/month
Shared By: C Miller on Jan 19, 2006 with 4 Suggestions
Admins: C Miller, M Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

Description

Tahquitz and Suicide Rocks are the premiere multi-pitch traditional crags in Southern California and offer numerous climbs of all levels from one to seven pitches in length.

The rock at both Tahquitz and Suicide is a high-quality granite that varies from smooth and nearly featureless in spots to rough and grainy in others with most of it being somewhere in the middle and quite excellent. Loose rock is generally rare at Suicide Rock but the north side of Tahquitz is notorious for loose rock.

The season typically runs from mid to late spring through mid to late fall although with a mild winter the season can be extended in either direction. Suicide Rock with it's lower elevation tends to be free of snow earlier in the spring and be hotter in the summer.

Please note these are traditional crags and although sport routes do exist at both rocks they are the exception. It's important to keep in mind that even fully bolted routes requiring nothing more than quickdraws tend to be runout and somewhat serious leads.

Getting There

Before driving, check with the Caltrans Highway Information Network (CHIN) 1-800.427.7623 or visit CA.gov for current highway conditions. 

**Current State Route 243 Conditions**
Closed from 2.3 miles north of Pine Cove at Round Robin Dr. to 11.1 miles south of Banning at Skyland Ranch Rd. due to mudslide repairs.

**Current State Route 74 Conditions**
Closed from 2.1 miles east of Valley View at Willowbrook Rd. to State Route 243 due to flood repairs.  
The route will be open wi a pilot car escort for traffic between Mountain Center and Hemet (hours below).
Monday thru Friday – 0400 hrs to 0800 hrs & 1800 hrs to 2359 hrs
Saturday & Sunday – 0400 hrs to 2359 hrs

**ALTERNATE ROUTES**
From San Diego/Temecula: Take Highway 79 South through Temecula to Highway 371; head north on Highway 74 and north on Highway 243 in Mountain Center. Travel 4 more miles to Idyllwild.

From LA & Orange Counties (Route 1): Head East on I-10 to Monterey Ave. in Palm Desert; follow Monterey until it becomes Highway 74 in Palm Desert; follow Highway 74 up the mountain until you hit Highway 243 in Mountain Center, go right. Travel 4 more miles to Idyllwild.

From LA & Orange Counties (Route 2): Head East on I-10 to I-215 South; exit on Highway 79 South through Temecula to Highway 371 to Highway 74 North, then turn right on Highway 243 in Mountain Center. Travel 4 more miles to Idyllwild.

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From LA or Palm Springs via Interstate 10 take Highway 243 from the town of Banning 24 miles south to the town of Idyllwild. After your first stop sign (your first since leaving Banning) make a left onto North Circle Drive, the second left, and follow it to another stop sign. Make a right and then your first left onto Fern Valley Drive and follow the signs to Humber Park.

From the San Diego via Interstate 215 take Highway 74 to the town of Hemet, from which it's 14 miles to the small town of Mountain Center and the junction with Highway 243. Drive 5 miles to the town of Idyllwild and make a right onto North Circle Drive (just past The Fort) and follow it to a stop sign. Make a right and then your first left onto Fern Valley Drive and follow the signs to Humber Park.

Weather

Guidebook

Rock Climbing Tahquitz and Suicide Rocks (3rd edition) by Randy Vogel and Bob Gaines is the most current/up-to-date guide available to the area.

Adventure Pass

An Adventure Pass is required to legally park at Humber Park.

Day Pass - Costs: $5 per day
Annual Pass - Costs: $30 Annually

America the Beautiful Pass will be honored.

Where do you buy a pass?

1) Visitor's Center or browse the Adventure Pass vendor list for locations near you that sell.

2) Order passes directly from the Forest Service by phone 909-382-2622, 2623, or 2621 using a credit/debit card.
Monday - Friday (except on holidays) 8:00am - 4:30pm PST

3) Order passes directly from the Forest Service by mail (takes forever, hard pass).

San Bernardino National Forest
Pass Program Headquarters - Pass Orders
602 S. Tippecanoe Avenue
San Bernardino, CA 92408-2607

599 Total Climbs

Route Finder - Best Climbs for YOU!

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Classic Climbing Routes at Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 506
Fingertrip
Trad 4 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 275
The Long Climb
Trad 6 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 350
Traitor Horn
Trad 4 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 283
Coffin Nail
Trad 2 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 378
Flower of High Rank
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 438
Open Book
Trad 3 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 392
Whodunit
Trad 8 pitches
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 80
Sundike
Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 239
El Camino Real
Trad 4 pitches
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 120
Sundance
Trad 3 pitches
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 163
Super Pooper
Trad 4 pitches
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 82
The Price of Fear
Trad
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 110
Etude
Trad
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 186
The Vampire
Trad 4 pitches
5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 80
Insomnia
Trad
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Fingertrip Tahquitz Rock > (g) W Face > W Face - Right Side
 506
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad 4 pitches
The Long Climb Tahquitz Rock > (d) Northwest Recess
 275
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 6 pitches
Traitor Horn Tahquitz Rock > (g) W Face > W Face - Right Side
 350
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 4 pitches
Coffin Nail Tahquitz Rock > (g) W Face > W Face - Right Side
 283
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 2 pitches
Flower of High Rank Suicide Rock > (u) Northeast Buttress
 378
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Open Book Tahquitz Rock > (h) Open Book Area
 438
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad 3 pitches
Whodunit Tahquitz Rock > (d) Northwest Recess
 392
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad 8 pitches
Sundike Suicide Rock > (k) Sunshine Face > Sunshine Face - Right…
 80
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
El Camino Real Tahquitz Rock > (g) W Face > W Face - Right Side
 239
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad 4 pitches
Sundance Suicide Rock > (k) Sunshine Face > Sunshine Face - Right…
 120
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad 3 pitches
Super Pooper Tahquitz Rock > (f) W Face Bulg… > Upper Bulge Routes
 163
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad 4 pitches
The Price of Fear Tahquitz Rock > (f) W Face Bulg… > Upper Bulge Routes
 82
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad
Etude Suicide Rock > (u) Northeast Buttress
 110
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad
The Vampire Tahquitz Rock > (f) W Face Bulg… > Upper Bulge Routes
 186
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad 4 pitches
Insomnia Suicide Rock > (l) Buttress of… > Buttress of Cracks -…
 80
5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a Trad
More Classic Climbs in Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks »

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