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Elevation: 6,500 ft
GPS: 33.7607, -116.679
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
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Shared By: C Miller on Jan 19, 2006 · Updates
Admins: C Miller, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

Description Suggest change

Tahquitz and Suicide Rocks are the premiere multi-pitch traditional crags in Southern California and offer numerous climbs of all levels from one to seven pitches in length.

The rock at both Tahquitz and Suicide is a high-quality granite that varies from smooth and nearly featureless in spots to rough and grainy in others with most of it being somewhere in the middle and quite excellent.

 Loose rock is generally rare at Suicide Rock; the north side of Tahquitz, however, is notorious for loose rock and has been the scene of numerous accidents over the years - perhaps best to treat this as an alpine area and plan accordingly.

The season typically runs from mid to late spring through mid to late fall although with a mild winter the season can be extended in either direction. Suicide Rock with it's lower elevation tends to be free of snow earlier in the spring and be hotter in the summer.

  • Please note these are traditional crags and although sport routes do exist at both rocks they are the exception.
  •  It's important to keep in mind that even fully bolted routes requiring nothing more than quickdraws tend to be runout and somewhat serious leads.

Getting There Suggest change

  • Before driving, check with the Caltrans Highway Information Network (CHIN) 1-800.427.7623 or visit CA.gov for current highway conditions. 

From San Diego/Temecula: Take Highway 79 South through Temecula to Highway 371; head north on Highway 74 and north on Highway 243 in Mountain Center. Travel 4 more miles to Idyllwild.

From LA & Orange Counties (Route 1): Head East on I-10 to Monterey Ave. in Palm Desert; follow Monterey until it becomes Highway 74 in Palm Desert; follow Highway 74 up the mountain until you hit Highway 243 in Mountain Center, go right. Travel 4 more miles to Idyllwild.

From LA & Orange Counties (Route 2): Head East on I-10 to I-215 South; exit on Highway 79 South through Temecula to Highway 371 to Highway 74 North, then turn right on Highway 243 in Mountain Center. Travel 4 more miles to Idyllwild.

Weather

Suggest change

Guidebook

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Best Climbs Tahquitz and Suicide Rocks by Bob Gaines, published in 2013, is the most current guidebook to the area and includes many of the best routes.

Rock Climbing Tahquitz and Suicide Rocks (3rd edition) by Randy Vogel and Bob Gaines, published in 2001, is the most comprehensive guidebook to the area.

Adventure Pass

Suggest change
An Adventure Pass is required to legally park at Humber Park.

Day Pass - Costs: $5 per day
Annual Pass - Costs: $30 Annually

America the Beautiful Pass will be honored.

Where do you buy a pass?

1) Visitor's Center or browse the Adventure Pass vendor list for locations near you that sell.

2) Order passes directly from the Forest Service by phone 909-382-2622, 2623, or 2621 using a credit/debit card.
Monday - Friday (except on holidays) 8:00am - 4:30pm PST

3) Order passes directly from the Forest Service by mail (takes forever, hard pass).

San Bernardino National Forest
Pass Program Headquarters - Pass Orders
602 S. Tippecanoe Avenue
San Bernardino, CA 92408-2607

665 Total Climbs

Route Finder - Best Climbs for YOU!

Location: Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 628
Fingertrip
Trad 4 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 438
Traitor Horn
Trad 4 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 353
Coffin Nail
Trad 2 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 456
Flower of High Rank
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 526
Open Book
Trad 3 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 479
Whodunit
Trad 8 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 289
Dave's Deviation
Trad 3 pitches
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 289
El Camino Real
Trad 4 pitches
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 149
Sundance
Trad 3 pitches
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 178
Johnny Quest
Trad 2 pitches
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 211
Super Pooper
Trad 4 pitches
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 76
Valhalla
Trad 3 pitches
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 143
Etude
Trad
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 231
The Vampire
Trad 4 pitches
5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 107
Insomnia
Trad
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Fingertrip Tahquitz Rock > (g) W Face > W Face - Right Side
 628
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad 4 pitches
Traitor Horn Tahquitz Rock > (g) W Face > W Face - Right Side
 438
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 4 pitches
Coffin Nail Tahquitz Rock > (g) W Face > W Face - Right Side
 353
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 2 pitches
Flower of High Rank Suicide Rock > (u) Northeast Buttress
 456
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Open Book Tahquitz Rock > (h) Open Book Area
 526
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad 3 pitches
Whodunit Tahquitz Rock > (d) Northwest Recess
 479
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad 8 pitches
Dave's Deviation Tahquitz Rock > (g) W Face > W Face - Left Side
 289
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad 3 pitches
El Camino Real Tahquitz Rock > (g) W Face > W Face - Right Side
 289
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad 4 pitches
Sundance Suicide Rock > (k) Sunshine Face > Sunshine Face - Right…
 149
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad 3 pitches
Johnny Quest Suicide Rock > (u) Northeast Buttress
 178
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad 2 pitches
Super Pooper Tahquitz Rock > (f) W Face Bulg… > Upper Bulge Routes
 211
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad 4 pitches
Valhalla Suicide Rock > (k) Sunshine Face > Sunshine Face - Right…
 76
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad 3 pitches
Etude Suicide Rock > (u) Northeast Buttress
 143
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad
The Vampire Tahquitz Rock > (f) W Face Bulg… > Upper Bulge Routes
 231
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad 4 pitches
Insomnia Suicide Rock > (l) Buttress of… > Buttress of Cracks -…
 107
5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a Trad
More Classic Climbs in Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks »

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