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Routes in Sunshine Face - Right Side

Arrowhead T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Bukatude T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Buttress Chimney T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Drain Pipe, The T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
First Pitch T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Gates of Delirium T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Golden Oldies T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Hesitation T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Hesitation Direct T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Iron Cross T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Ishi T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Last of the Mohicans T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Moondance T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
New Generation T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Nirvana T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Quiet Desperation T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Race With The Devil T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R
Red Rain T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Sidewinder T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Stretch, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Sundance T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Sundance Arete T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b R
Sundike T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Valhalla T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Voodoo Child T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Type: Trad, 280 ft, 3 pitches
FA: Mike Graham and Tobin Sorenson, July 1973
Page Views: 3,018 total, 26/month
Shared By: Brandon R on May 19, 2008
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

I can only comment on the first two pitches, which I climbed on top rope. I'll add info on the rest when I climb finish climbing it.

Pitch 1. Follow three bolts up the rounded arete/roof to the right of First Pitch. The crux coming right by the bolt on VERY slick feet. Traverse left at the second bolt and then up past one more to No Go Ledge. Because of the slickness of the crux, I'd rate this pitch 5.11b. Bolted anchor

Pitch 2. Historical crux pitch, but not much, if any harder than the first pitch. Make hard 5.10 moves up to the first bolt, followed immediately by the crux to a second bolt. One more bolt on the increasingly easier face leads to the Hesitation belay. This pitch is definitely R rated unless you bring a stick clip to clip the first bolt, as you're looking at a ledge fall.

Pitch 3. Haven't climbed it, but it follows a bolted face up and right of the belay.

Protection

bolts, a very small rack up to 1" for the start of the first pitch and the end of the third.

Photos

The last pitch is a fun 10a easily accessible from the right side. Nov 26, 2016
GaryT Talavera   Irvine
My partner and I were toproping the first pitch after rapping from Hesitation and a hold broke (exfoliated from the rock). I believe it was between the first and second bolt. Very thin hold and you can just tell where it is by the difference in color of the rock. The exfoliation is about the size of a baseball or softball. I believe I was pulling just slightly off from straight down when it happened. Glad I was on toprope at the time. Aug 25, 2016
Patsy  
Did anyone else fall for the first pitch sandbag? I went up here, pulled the low crux then just got spanked on the "10c" high crux. I talked with Clark Jacobs afterwards, and he told me I'd done it all wrong, that if I'd climbed left it really would have been a 10c move. Whatever, I took a nice whipper past that little bulge beneath it, then tried 2 more times before I pulled it. Sep 16, 2011
This route was first climbed in pre EB boots, and was 5.12 edging. Sticky boots really brought it down to size. Jul 14, 2011
Souljah
Northern NM
  5.11b
Souljah   Northern NM
  5.11b
First pitch used to be really popular. Had the pleasure of climbing this route in it's entirety a couple of times. Excellent "face" climbing.

I'd like to thank Darrell for showing me that tricky little foot set-up below the P-2 crux bolt...way , way back in the day , and for all of his amazing contributions to the sport.
Feb 1, 2010
Bruce Diffenbaugh
Cheyenne,Wyoming
 
Bruce Diffenbaugh   Cheyenne,Wyoming
 
Maybe this comment will stay up this time ? If I'm nice to everyone ? Read about this route at;

stonemastergear.com/index.p… Jul 28, 2008
john strand
southern colo
 
john strand   southern colo
 
A REALLY good route- a Suicide top 5 for me. And yes thanks Darrel for posting all these top quality lines on a favorite cliff. Jul 12, 2008
Brandon R
Sacramento, CA
 
Brandon R   Sacramento, CA
 
Oh, and speaking of hard climbing Suicide junkies, thanks Darrell for taking the time to post all these routes up. Jul 10, 2008
The second pitch doesn't really need a stick clip. Try it without first, to get the true feel of the route. In fact, it feels a little less committing now that there are belay bolts just off to the left. Jul 9, 2008
usetob
Visalia, Ca.
 
usetob   Visalia, Ca.
 
You won't hit the ledge till you pull rope to clip the second bolt on the second pitch. Dicey stance and long fall to clip. Crux is first few moves right off the first bolt. Classic steep suicide face route. One of the best. May 25, 2008
Murf  
I tend not to post routes that I haven't done. I don't what to TR this route, 'cause one day I might lead it. You've done it (albeit on TR), so you get to post it. Plus, I just kinda tolerate the slab. May 19, 2008
Brandon R
Sacramento, CA
 
Brandon R   Sacramento, CA
 
Some of you hard climbing Suicide junkies need to post up some routes so I don't have to:) May 19, 2008