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Routes in Buttress of Cracks - Left Side

Aqualung T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Arcy Farcy T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Bacon Bits (aka Razor Games) T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
Bluebeard T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Bocomaru T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Buccaneer, The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Captain Hook T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Double Exposure T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b A1
Double Exposure Direct T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Frustration T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Ham Sandwich T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Hernia - Direct Finish T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Hernia, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Insomnia T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Pass Time T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Pirate, The T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Swashbuckler T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Sword of Damocles T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Walk the Plank T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Winter Solstice T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: Pat Callis & Larry Reynolds, June 1967, FFA: Jim Erickson & Scott Stewart, March 1972
Page Views: 18,283 total, 126/month
Shared By: C Miller on Jan 20, 2006
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Climb 25' up Buttress Chimney, the wide crack between the Sunshine Face & Buttress Of Cracks, and then enter a flared chimney (5.9) below a striking crack. Wiggle up the chimney and then launch directly into the crux, which can be jammed straight-on or lie-backed depending upon your hand size or preference. Higher the crack makes a jog left via a steep hand crack (5.10+) and finishes with some easy moves to a ledge with a bolted anchors.

Rappel (if slings are in place) or make an easy downclimb off the backside which leads to a notch where you can pick up a trail leading back to the base.

Location

This classic crack is found on the left end of the Buttress of Cracks, just left of the classic Double Exposure arete, and facing towards the Sunshine Face.

Protection

Gear to 3", bolted anchor
I almost sent in my pants reading that last comment. Apr 18, 2016
Austin Sobotka
Tucson, AZ
  5.11b/c
Austin Sobotka   Tucson, AZ
  5.11b/c
This thing doesn't look like much from the base, but what an awesome route once you're in it! There was one fixed BD .5, and two fixed plastic nuts (what the hell?). I clipped the higher nut, mostly as a novelty.
As for the rating: two days earlier I came extremely close to onsighting Separate Reality (botched the beta before the jug, damn it!) and a day before cruised up the Bat Crack. I managed the onsight on this, but it was by no means cruiser. b/c seems about right.
Also, no bees at the base. Jun 7, 2015
definitely bees in Insomnia .... nov 27th 2013 Nov 28, 2013
Hamik Mukelyan
San Francisco, CA
Hamik Mukelyan   San Francisco, CA
There is a hive of angry (Africanized?) honey bees near the base of Insomnia. My partners and I were stung several times on October 6, 2013 while racking up for Insomnia. Watch out! Oct 7, 2013
Jeff Gicklhorn
Tucson, AZ
  5.11b/c
Jeff Gicklhorn   Tucson, AZ
  5.11b/c
Don't get sandbagged, this is the real deal! Best crack in Idyllwild!

If confident at the grade, all you need is doubles from .5-2 BD with maybe a couple of extra pieces in the 1-2" range, and maybe 8 runners. As of today, two fixed pieces at the crux. Aug 6, 2012
Jack Ziegler
Golden, CO
 
Jack Ziegler   Golden, CO
 
OMG, so good! The Best crack at Tahquitz/suicide I'd say. I think there are two cruxes. The power crux, right after the second chimney you stem up, and an endurance crux, the last off hands crack section. Jun 27, 2011
A friend of a friend led Insomnia this last week. I did not get on it but I believe there are 1 or 2 fixed pieces in the crux section now. Apr 21, 2009
Bruce Diffenbaugh
Cheyenne,Wyoming
  5.11a/b
Bruce Diffenbaugh   Cheyenne,Wyoming
  5.11a/b
Yeah,I notice.I just found it interesting.It's for sure harder to do in one pitch and without the fixed hex's.The first time I led it there was only one fixed hex just below the crux. Jan 6, 2009
C Miller
CA
 
C Miller   CA  
 
Old School 10D?

Did you happen to notice they climbed the route in 2 pitches and the route briefly sported "fixed hexes"? They were a little off with The Pirate as well in thinking it would go free at only 5.11+. Dec 31, 2008
Bruce Diffenbaugh
Cheyenne,Wyoming
  5.11a/b
Bruce Diffenbaugh   Cheyenne,Wyoming
  5.11a/b
Old School 10D? check out this link.

supertopo.com/climbing/thre… Dec 26, 2008
Scotty Nelson
Boulder
  5.11b/c
Scotty Nelson   Boulder
  5.11b/c
I think 11b/c is fair. And BTW if Crack a Go-Go is the standard for 11c, then Butterballs should be 11d. Sep 3, 2008
Brandon R
Sacramento, CA
5.11b/c
Brandon R   Sacramento, CA
5.11b/c
Thank you for your very insightful comment Michael Sokoloff, but I've never been to the Riverside Rock Quarry. Last I checked though, the whole reason for the existence of this website was to get accurate route information, so I think my comments are at least somewhat useful... unlike others here. Jun 16, 2008
Michael Sokoloff
Spokane, WA
Michael Sokoloff   Spokane, WA
Brandon R. Save the grade wankery for the Riverside Quarry. Insomnia is one of the classic pitches in Socal and it's harder than 5.10 and easier than 5.12. Ya think climbing grades are an exact science? May 21, 2008
Brandon R
Sacramento, CA
5.11b/c
Brandon R   Sacramento, CA
5.11b/c
The crux is pretty obvious, and quite awkward, at least for me. I've seen a small girl with tiny hands just straight in jam through the entire flared lie-back section, making it look much easier. As far as I'm concerned, if this is .11A, then I'd have to downgrade a whole lot of other .11A's I've done.

You post a lot of info about routes up here, so I'm just trying to suss out if your info is influenced by the "back in the day bravado" syndrome, or if you are really giving modern, accurate route beta. Maybe I'll see you up there sometime... I'd love to see someone float up this route, mainly so I can see what I'm doing wrong. May 19, 2008
Bruce Diffenbaugh
Cheyenne,Wyoming
  5.11a/b
Bruce Diffenbaugh   Cheyenne,Wyoming
  5.11a/b
Ok,Its B or C or what ever you say. I have led it a lot, So maybe it is a bit easier for me.Don't know. Crack-a-go-go is 11.C and it is for sure harder than Insomnia. Chris said its 11.B So I'll go with that.Theres only a few 5.11 moves on the route.The flared chimney is 5.9+ the moves coming out of the chimney and into the layback are the hardest moves I think.The upper portion of the crack is 10.D but go ahead be suspicious. May 15, 2008
Brandon R
Sacramento, CA
5.11b/c
Brandon R   Sacramento, CA
5.11b/c
5.11A?!? Is that a typo or should I be suspicious of all your comments? May 1, 2008
Bruce Diffenbaugh
Cheyenne,Wyoming
  5.11a/b
Bruce Diffenbaugh   Cheyenne,Wyoming
  5.11a/b
This is the best pitch on this side of the valley The little sister to the vampire on the other side of the valley I led them both for the first time back in the 80's and they are musts for all visitors.For the hard man workout do them both in a day! Jan 29, 2008
Michael Sokoloff
Spokane, WA
Michael Sokoloff   Spokane, WA
I can't think of many better pitches in Socal than this one. Quite varied crackclimbing. Clean and strenuous. Hope to get back to Suicide soon. Jan 2, 2008
Scotty Nelson
Boulder
  5.11b/c
Scotty Nelson   Boulder
  5.11b/c
If you are TRing, might want to bring a cordellete to extend the anchor from the chains over the lip. May 4, 2007
There are chains on top as of this posting. A 60 meter rope and 5 feet of easy downclimbing at the bottom of the buttress chimney get you down to the start. May 15, 2006