Insomnia
5.11b/c YDS 6c+ French 23 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 24 ZA E4 6a British
Type: | Trad, 100 ft (30 m) |
FA: | Pat Callis & Larry Reynolds, June 1967, FFA: Jim Erickson & Scott Stewart, March 1972 |
Page Views: | 26,501 total · 114/month |
Shared By: | C Miller on Jan 20, 2006 |
Admins: | C Miller, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
Description
Climb 25 feet up Buttress Chimney, the wide crack between the Sunshine Face & Buttress of Cracks, and then enter a flared chimney (5.9) below a striking crack.
Wiggle up the chimney and then launch directly into the crux, which can be jammed straight-on or lie-backed depending upon your hand size or preference.
Higher the crack makes a jog left via a steep hand crack (5.10+) and finishes with some easy moves to a ledge with a bolted anchors.
- Rappel or make an easy down climb off the backside, which leads to a notch where you can pick up a trail leading back to the base.
19 Comments