Type: Trad, 100 ft (30 m)
FA: Pat Callis & Larry Reynolds, June 1967, FFA: Jim Erickson & Scott Stewart, March 1972
Page Views: 23,933 total · 126/month
Shared By: C Miller on Jan 20, 2006
Admins: C Miller, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Vicki Schwantes, Justin Johnsen

You & This Route


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Description

Climb 25' up Buttress Chimney, the wide crack between the Sunshine Face & Buttress Of Cracks, and then enter a flared chimney (5.9) below a striking crack. Wiggle up the chimney and then launch directly into the crux, which can be jammed straight-on or lie-backed depending upon your hand size or preference. Higher the crack makes a jog left via a steep hand crack (5.10+) and finishes with some easy moves to a ledge with a bolted anchors.

Rappel (if slings are in place) or make an easy downclimb off the backside which leads to a notch where you can pick up a trail leading back to the base.

Location

This classic crack is found on the left end of the Buttress of Cracks, just left of the classic Double Exposure arete, and facing towards the Sunshine Face.

Protection

Gear to 3 inches, bolted anchor

Photos