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Routes in (o) Right of the Escalator
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Axe of God T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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B.S. Arch T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Breeze, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R |
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Bullocks T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Flatman Chimney T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Free Lance T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Gale, The TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Graceland T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R |
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Hair Face Variation T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Hair Lip T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Hair Pie T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Hot Buttered Rump T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Jackal, The T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R |
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Mad Dogs and Edgingmen T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Philocetes' Bow T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Poppycock Arch T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Shadow, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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| Type: | Trad, 150 ft (45 m) |
| FA: | Ivan Couch and Larry Reynolds, October 1970 |
| Page Views: | 6,085 total · 33/month |
| Shared By: | Roger Linfield on Feb 3, 2006 |
| Admins: | C Miller, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Description
This is a route that you won't soon forget! Start a bit to the left of a huge, right-facing flared chimney (Hot Buttered Rump). Progressively more difficult crack and then face climbing takes you up to just above (left of) the sharp lip of the chimney. The crux involves scary and very novel barn door liebacking, using the lip for handholds. The protection (bolts) is fairly good, but a fall could involve flying over the edge. This route gets morning sun.
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