Type: | Trad, 150 ft |
FA: | Ivan Couch and Larry Reynolds, October 1970 |
Page Views: | 5,206 total · 33/month |
Shared By: | Roger Linfield on Feb 3, 2006 |
Admins: | C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
Description
This is a route that you won't soon forget! Start a bit to the left of a huge, right-facing flared chimney (Hot Buttered Rump). Progressively more difficult crack and then face climbing takes you up to just above (left of) the sharp lip of the chimney. The crux involves scary and very novel barn door liebacking, using the lip for handholds. The protection (bolts) is fairly good, but a fall could involve flying over the edge. This route gets morning sun.
Superior
CA
Big Bear Lake
Dave reached over the lip and grabed someone by the ankle. Neither one knew the other was there and they both about came off. We were laughing are Azzes off once we realized no one was going to peel. Aug 4, 2006
The rap from the tree had two tatty slings on them. I left a piece of 7mil cord, but didn't have any rings. If anyone is headed up there to do this, it would be great to add a decent sling and a couple of rap rings. Aug 6, 2006
CA
Big Bear Lake
A 60 metre rope from the rap anchors will get you just to a ledge about 20' off the ground. From here traverse the ledge left (facing out) towards and under Tiny Pillars and hence off. May 22, 2009
Charlotte, NC
If you stay in the initial crack til it ends, you will indeed be looking at a sketchy 5.9 traverse to the first bolt which is just as bad for the follower as it is for the leader.
I have also fallen at the crux, btw, and I can say with certainty that the fall is clean (albeit heart stopping) and the risk of cutting your rope on the lip is really not that great (the lip is actually not very sharp in that section). Just make sure your belayer can see you as you as you work through the crux and you should be fine.
I agree with those who say the scariest part of the whole thing is the manky old bolts. At this point they represent an unnecessary risk. I too will gladly pitch in some $$ if somebody with rebolting experience is willing to replace them with modern hardware.
Any ASCA folks up for a trip to Suicide? (I'll belay you all day) Aug 10, 2009
Northern NM
For all my effort that day I lost about 5ft of 11mm rope and she never returned my calls.
Don't you hate it when they blame the belayer ?
Fun lead though. Apr 13, 2012
Los Angeles, CA
Big Bear Lake