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Routes in (o) Right of the Escalator

Axe of God T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
B.S. Arch T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Breeze, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Bullocks T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Flatman Chimney T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Free Lance T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Hair Lip T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Hair Pie T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Hot Buttered Rump T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Jackal, The T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Mad Dogs and Edgingmen T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Philocetes' Bow T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Poppycock Arch T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Shadow, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Type: Trad, 120 ft
FA: Marty Kaeser, Phil Warrender, Jon Lonnie, and T. Emerson, November 1971
Page Views: 70 total, 0/month
Shared By: Roger Linfield on Feb 2, 2006
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

This is a poor quality, commiting climb up a groove. It is difficult to let go and place protection in the thin crack. This route is just a few feet to the right of The Escalator. Rappel from the top of the climb.

Protection

standard rack, including small pieces

Photos

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dnaiscool  
 
The '85 red Vogel guide called this .10b...and he gave the traverse a 5.7 rating: SANDBAG!! I, too, thought the rounded hand traverse was sorta tough for the grade I was expecting, but I kept my mumbling low at the time.
Hey...I also saw and did a 2-bolt mini-direct start to this, thinking it to be .11a/b at the time. The climbing as hard right away, and I did not want an ankle injury, so I stick-clipped the first bolt. Is this still there? Mar 24, 2015
dnaiscool  
 
Pro Beta when I led this...(and, I actually pulled off a right leg knee bar in the low groove section, which made setting gear a bit easier)..Gear listed in order of use: nest of RP's #2,3,&4 just below the RUN-OUT, and once you get to the traverse, o TCU, #2 Camalot, #3 TCU (1/2 way across) Loop a small tree (if it is still there), now you are in the easy vertical crack, .5 Tricam, 3.5 Tricam or equivalent...Belay at sweet ledge in the Escalator, Belay Pro= (2) #2TCU & #2 Camalot. Aug 12, 2014
Darshan Ahluwalia
Petaluma, CA
  5.10b/c R
Darshan Ahluwalia   Petaluma, CA
  5.10b/c R
The route is actually quite good, in my opinion. The guidebook authors give this route 1 star as well. The climbing is technical, mental, and varied.

Description:
The route starts in a very thin crack in the back of a slabby U-shaped groove (10b/c), then traverses out right on a hand rail w/ poor feet (10a), and ends going straight up an easy discontinuous crack and face (5.7).

Protection:
The climb is pretty run out throughout. A couple marginal micronuts protect the first 20 feet of the climb, which is the crux. You can get a couple finger/wide-finger size cams in the 10a traverse. One or two hand size cams protect the finish. Jul 9, 2007