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Routes in (o) Right of the Escalator

Axe of God T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
B.S. Arch T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Breeze, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Bullocks T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Flatman Chimney T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Free Lance T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Gale, The TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Graceland T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R
Hair Face Variation T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Hair Lip T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Hair Pie T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Hot Buttered Rump T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Jackal, The T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Mad Dogs and Edgingmen T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Philocetes' Bow T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Poppycock Arch T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Shadow, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
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Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 83 total · 1/month
Shared By: J Smith on May 9, 2010
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Traverse left under the arch/roof by underclinging a narrowing finger crack with smears and edges for the feet. Surmount the overhang at its end and climb the easier face up and left to belay at a tree with rappel slings. Listed as a TR in the guide, this can easily be led on gear.

Location

Start at the same spot as for Bullocks, just left of the Flatman Chimney.

Protection

thin cams and nuts for the traverse, a few medium size pieces for the face above

Photos

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dnaiscool  
 
This is a terrific TR to toss in before pulling your cord from the rap off the other area climbs. There is a mammoth jug right at the end...so keep that in mind as you shuffle your tips across this .10d classic undercling. The pro is #2 TCU size and smaller, and it is a bit tricky to get in while hoisting the undercling moves...more fun as a TR....and I'd give it 2 1/2 stars for what it is: sweet long undercling that begs for the TR, because it's just darn convenient! Aug 12, 2014

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