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Routes in (o) Right of the Escalator

Axe of God T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
B.S. Arch T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Breeze, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Bullocks T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Flatman Chimney T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Free Lance T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Hair Lip T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Hair Pie T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Hot Buttered Rump T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Jackal, The T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Mad Dogs and Edgingmen T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Philocetes' Bow T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Poppycock Arch T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Shadow, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Type: Trad, 120 ft
FA: Larry Harrell and Pat Callis, May 1968
Page Views: 127 total, 1/month
Shared By: Roger Linfield on Feb 3, 2006
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

This climb follows a prominent right-facing arch. A large flake has fallen off, and is standing on edge at the base of the route. This is the "axe." A difficult, unprotected undercling start leads to hand jamming and then face climbing. If you can handle the start, this is a fairly nice route. Rappel from the top.

Protection

standard rack

Photos

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Trevor Clack
Santa Barbara, Californi
Trevor Clack   Santa Barbara, Californi
Be aware of placing pro on the first big undercling flake. It's getting loose and is bound to break soon Apr 2, 2017
dnaiscool  
 
Here's the rack I used: #1,3,4 Camalot; #11 Hex; Thin to med. stoppers...and do look for that Key Edge for the left foot to step off the "Ax"...just sayin'... Mar 25, 2015
AstroDood
his mind
AstroDood   his mind
One could simply forego all gear placements. Jul 13, 2013
Ryan Strickland
Idyllwild, CA
 
Ryan Strickland   Idyllwild, CA
 
I disagree with the "R" rating. One can place a small cam right from the start to protect the move onto the "axe". Apr 24, 2011