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Routes in (o) Right of the Escalator

Axe of God T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
B.S. Arch T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Breeze, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Bullocks T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Flatman Chimney T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Free Lance T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Hair Lip T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Hair Pie T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Hot Buttered Rump T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Jackal, The T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Mad Dogs and Edgingmen T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Philocetes' Bow T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Poppycock Arch T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Shadow, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Type: Trad, 140 ft
FA: Charlie Raymond, Paul Raymond, and Jim Taylor, February 1968
Page Views: 555 total, 4/month
Shared By: Roger Linfield on Feb 2, 2006
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

This climb was originally rated 5.7. Over the years, more and more holds have broken off near the start, considerably increasing the difficulty. The last time I did it (mid 90s), getting up to the bolt 12 feet off the ground was committing 5.9, and the move by the bolt was 5.10A. Maybe it's harder now. Above the crux move, a long 5.6 chimney takes you to the top. This is not a recommended climb.

Protection

include some gear to 3 or 4 inches

Photos

This climb is actually fun. I did it yesterday. It is worth doing if you are in the area. It is a little delicate getting to the bolt. One step up from bolt and a 5.10a step to the left and reach up to the left to a jug. The next section is 'R' or a grounder for sure, but easy; you won't fall. The rest of the climb is 5.7 or 5.8. After 70' or 80' traverse right to a bolted rap station. Mar 4, 2016
Tradiban  
 
Not R. I finished on the 5.7 end of The Jackal. Aug 27, 2014
Blair
  5.10a PG13
Blair  
  5.10a PG13
A fun hard variation we did-At the base of the chimney section, go right on the edge of the corner and face up to the 2 bolt anchor on The Ghost. Jul 1, 2009