Type: Trad, 140 ft
FA: Charlie Raymond, Paul Raymond, and Jim Taylor, February 1968
Page Views: 625 total · 4/month
Shared By: Roger Linfield on Feb 2, 2006
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


13 Opinions

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Description

This climb was originally rated 5.7. Over the years, more and more holds have broken off near the start, considerably increasing the difficulty. The last time I did it (mid 90s), getting up to the bolt 12 feet off the ground was committing 5.9, and the move by the bolt was 5.10A. Maybe it's harder now. Above the crux move, a long 5.6 chimney takes you to the top. This is not a recommended climb.

Protection

include some gear to 3 or 4 inches

Photos

Blair
  5.10a PG13
Blair  
  5.10a PG13
A fun hard variation we did-At the base of the chimney section, go right on the edge of the corner and face up to the 2 bolt anchor on The Ghost. Jul 1, 2009
Tradiban  
 
Not R. I finished on the 5.7 end of The Jackal. Aug 27, 2014
This climb is actually fun. I did it yesterday. It is worth doing if you are in the area. It is a little delicate getting to the bolt. One step up from bolt and a 5.10a step to the left and reach up to the left to a jug. The next section is 'R' or a grounder for sure, but easy; you won't fall. The rest of the climb is 5.7 or 5.8. After 70' or 80' traverse right to a bolted rap station. Mar 4, 2016