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Routes in (o) Right of the Escalator

Axe of God T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
B.S. Arch T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Breeze, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Bullocks T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Flatman Chimney T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Free Lance T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Hair Lip T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Hair Pie T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Hot Buttered Rump T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Jackal, The T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Mad Dogs and Edgingmen T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Philocetes' Bow T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Poppycock Arch T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Shadow, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Type: Trad, 150 ft
FA: Charlie Raymond and Larry Harrell, April 1968
Page Views: 3,230 total, 22/month
Shared By: Roger Linfield on Feb 3, 2006
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

Not everyone will like this route, but it is a clean, high quality chimney that demands a lot of technique. It is very obvious - a huge, strongly flared, right-facing corner. You can stay in the back of the chimney for good protection or move outside for fun wide stemming moves (perhaps more appropriate when following). This route is in shade most of the day.

Protection

wired nuts (mostly) and a few larger pieces

Photos

Tradiban
  5.10a
Tradiban  
  5.10a
The block is loose, deal with it. Jan 12, 2017
Gavin Goerke
Santa Barbara
Gavin Goerke   Santa Barbara
Any new info about the loose block? Want to climb this route but not sure if it's now pg-13/R Jan 12, 2017
Jonathan Spurgin, your comment had me cracking up as this is play-for-play what happened when I attempted this route.

The huge flake in the middle of the climb is loose. This is slightly problematic, as behind it is the last place to put any pro for what looks like 20 feet. I pulled on the flake and felt the entire thing move outwards and then settle back with a noise loud enough for my belayer to ask what the hell was happening. I looked up at the flared seam above me, looked down at my last piece six feet below, and decided to downclimb.
Jun 27, 2016
The loose block a 1/3 of the way up is kind of scary. Yesterday, I grabbed the top of it and it rocked a bit and went "klunk klunk". My belayer heard it. I bravely down-climbed. I think someone should yank it out of the route! Sep 2, 2015
dnaiscool  
 
I did this left side in, and done this way I'd suggest a knee pad on the right knee. The jams for the left hand are solid, so plant those #2 & #3 Friends as you go and rack the gear ON A SLING on the right. The solid nature of the right knee-to-foot opposition is comforting as you jam the left and palm the right to move upward. Done this way, one will get good practice in the technique of sending a leaning, flared chimney. Oh, and there is a place to sink some thin gear up higher, so keep those little nuts & cams on the ready. If the crux chimney in "Epinephrine" at Red Rocks is 5.9, then this, too, is 5.9...but nobody will argue much if you think its .10a....just get in there and squirm like a worm, Baby!!..at least it's shady all the time, right?! Mar 25, 2015
Tradiban
  5.10a
Tradiban  
  5.10a
Pick your poison. Start facing out and then convert to the lip for a wild ride or go face in for a suffer-fest. I was forced to run it out going the face out route, but it was fun! May 22, 2014
Phil Esra  
 
The climbing itself is really not that hard. Compared to your usual sandbagged wide climb, I'd call the 10a rating a little soft. There's a longish section after a loose flake, though, where the pro is tiny nuts and/or tiny offset cams in fiddly flaring placements. Easy for your legs to pump out while you're fumbling with your bodyweight-only pro. Wished I had offset brassies; ended up opposing a #2 or #3 BD nut to an upside down mastercam, followed by a yellow (smallest) DMM offset nut. Probably should have just climbed through. May 31, 2013
The Ruin-er
CA
  5.10a
The Ruin-er   CA
  5.10a
^ yessir! we had fun on those lol Jun 30, 2012
Pfeifer  
For a sweet continuation after the rap rings walk around right (don't really need to rope this part up, but if you do you'll feel safer). After that head up to two obvious dihedrals (you can see these from the ground). They offer a sweet, but short, climb of great jams (brings you to the top of the rock). 5.8+ Jun 29, 2012
The Ruin-er
CA
  5.10a
The Ruin-er   CA
  5.10a
pretty stout 10a Jun 25, 2012
The Ruin-er
CA
  5.10a
The Ruin-er   CA
  5.10a
takes tons of pro in the cruxy ow moves down low then grab a good rest on the big flake. hit the outside edge with your right hand and chimney up, takes great gear but reachy on the chimney part Jun 25, 2012
Fantastic route! But you'll never have to wait in a line for this one. TCUs, and small stoppers can be found throughout the chimney section, but the placements are not totally obvious. I'd also have to say that after climbing this route recently for the 4th time, I don't think its any harder than 5.9 The difficulty feels fairly comparable to 5.9 wide stuff in Yosemite Valley.

I also don't think it's necessarily any easier staying on the outside. A little technique goes a long way. Jun 23, 2010
Tyler Logan
Mammoth Lakes, CA
Tyler Logan   Mammoth Lakes, CA
Protecting this thing was the crux for me. It's easy to lose body tension while fumbling for gear. I found a #3 Camalot to be a crucial piece early in the chimney (when standing on the detached flake). It was a flared, ugly-looking placement--the kind where anything other than a Camalot would probably walk out--but it was better than anything else I could figure out. Further up, I saw some possible small nut placements but decided that it was more efficient to wait for the constrictions where I could quickly plug in a cam. You'll see 'em. Mostly 1/2" to 1" size. Oct 3, 2009
Jeff Dunbar
Charlotte, NC
 
Jeff Dunbar   Charlotte, NC
 
HBR makes for a great intro to the bizarre, thrutchy business of technical chimney climbing. Fortunately you can TR this one easily with a top belay by first leading Hair Lip (exciting) and then moving right 10 ft to the rap anchors for HBR.

Just lower your partner down from the top and then enjoy listening to him/her suffer on the way back up (the sound carries REALLY well straight up the chimney to your cushy belay ledge).

Do it this way and you will become VERY familiar with one of the coolest rock features at Suicide. Aug 10, 2009
usetob
Visalia, Ca.
 
usetob   Visalia, Ca.
 
The climb is probably 5.8 if you want to stay out at the lip, gets harder as you go in to protect yourself. May 5, 2008
Darshan Ahluwalia
Petaluma, CA
5.10a PG13
Darshan Ahluwalia   Petaluma, CA
5.10a PG13
This climb is INTENSE. My rump is FOR SURE buttered. Mar 25, 2007
C Miller
CA
  5.10a
C Miller   CA  
  5.10a
Physical climbing that by it's nature is fairly secure. It's possible to climb this route facing in as well as out. Mar 7, 2006
Chris Owen
Big Bear Lake
  5.10a
Chris Owen   Big Bear Lake  
  5.10a
This is a pretty intense route, although the protection is good, some small wires help - IF you're willing to do a bit of searching. The edge of Hair Lip can prove useful if you reach back with your right hand. I'd give it 5.10a. Feb 24, 2006